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225 Exhaust Manifold
https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=38717		 Page 1 of 1
Author:  valiant1966 [ Wed Jan 20, 2010 6:23 pm ]
Post subject:  225 Exhaust Manifold
Hi, new guy here. Nice to see so much info in one place. Been looking around and you guys are great. I have a 66Valiant w/225 /6 w/cracked exhaust manifold(typical, I see) and a friend gave me another one that came from a junk yard...unknown doner. There are some visible differences(2 ribs on the underside and different auto choke housing). My question is(finally) "Will this manifold bolt up to my current engine and intake?" or is there any way to determine this? Thanks in advance for any help.
Author:  Wesola78 [ Wed Jan 20, 2010 7:11 pm ]
Post subject: 
Hello, welcome to the site!
I'm not 100% positive, but I think the manifold your friend gave you will bolt right up. It sounds like it is a later year exhaust manifold, the later ones had reinforcing ribs added to them. The only other thing that might be different is the area for the choke, but that might not be an issue for you.
Again, I think the manifold will work fine.
Uh, Dan? Anybody else?

Welcome!
Author:  Wesola78 [ Wed Jan 20, 2010 7:15 pm ]
Post subject: 
Oh yeah, one more thing:
Don't get rid of your cracked exhaust manifold, you may be able to use it in the future. Look in the articles section on modifying a rear manifold to use with a Dutra front manifold, and you'll understand what I mean.
Author:  SlantSixDan [ Wed Jan 20, 2010 7:39 pm ]
Post subject: 
Yup, it'll bolt up with no problem. Does it have a cast-iron pocket for the choke (just differently shaped than your original) or does it have an open hole directly into the interior of the manifold, with a sheetmetal cup bolted atop the open hole?
Author:  64'4$peed [ Wed Jan 20, 2010 9:01 pm ]
Post subject: 
the sheet metal cup SSD is referencing will have two bolts at the choke area, it requires a special gasket to seal. I have never found one of these. however permatex ultra copper silicone does a really good job of sealing it up. in either case it should bolt up fine
Author:  valiant1966 [ Thu Jan 21, 2010 2:20 am ]
Post subject: 
The old one has a "pocket" for the choke housing but the new one has something very similar but the "pocket" is open on one side. I wasn't really worried about the choke. I'll work around that somehow. Just wanted to make sure it bolted to the engine and the intake before tore into this. Tried some JB Weld on the old and it doesn't fry but it gets a hairline crack in it too. The car actually gets quieter after it warms up due to the heat expansion of the manifold sealing up the crack.


Thanks for the info. I'll be back, I'm sure. I've a lot of experience with cars but not with Mopar. A friend of mine keeps trying to get me to V8 it but I wanted to do something a little different with it.
Author:  SlantSixDan [ Thu Jan 21, 2010 8:28 am ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
The old one has a "pocket" for the choke housing but the new one has something very similar but the "pocket" is open on one side.
That's a '73-up exhaust manifold. The choke is easy; put on a #1231 Electric choke kit. It is very much worth your while to get the good gaskets for the manifolds-to-head and intake-to-exhaust junctions.
And read the manifold installation article, too.

(Welcome on the board, by the way. Tune-up parts and technique suggestions in this thread. And don't forget this engine will need periodic valve adjustment.)
Author:  Doc [ Thu Jan 21, 2010 9:17 am ]
Post subject: 
It is a good idea to review the Exhaust Manifold Installation article.

One note about the 66 intake, mating-up with the 73+ exhaust manifold.
The 73 will have a larger 3/8-16 stud as one of the 3 intake to exhaust mounting points. The thru hole in the 66 intake manifold was intended for a smaller, 5/16-18 bolt. To get good manifold to manifold alignment, you may need to drill-out that bolt hole in the intake, so you can get to the place where the port faces are correctly aligned with each other.

Doing "trial assemblies" with the manifolds and the manifold set, to the cylinder head... then making adjustment as needed, is the key to getting the new set to fit well, to seal and to last a long time.
DD
Author:  valiant1966 [ Thu Jan 21, 2010 10:32 am ]
Post subject: 
All good info. Thanks so much. Actually, the intake that goes to the new exhaust manifold is available(for free) also. So I think I may just get it and put a nice paint job on both before installing and avoid any downtime on my toy.
Author:  valiant1966 [ Thu Jan 21, 2010 10:44 am ]
Post subject: 
By the way, am I gonna run into water jackets while doing this? I know most of the time you do and I got the factory service manual to check it out but since I've got all this talent gathered here, I might as well use it. If I don't need to drain the system, why bother,right? Again, thanks for all
Author:  66aCUDA [ Thu Jan 21, 2010 3:54 pm ]
Post subject: 
Number 1 and 6 go into water. Start using PB Blaster on ALL the nuts and bolts NOW. 2 times a day is not too much. Dont forget the 2 long wobble 6 inch 1/4 drive extensions. Remember that there is a bolt on the bottom center.
If you break a stud....DONT USE AN EZ OUT. Tell us and we can make some good suggestions.
Frank
Author:  limedust70 [ Sat Jan 23, 2010 3:03 pm ]
Post subject:  Broken Manifold Stud
I can use the stud removal info. Just bought a 63 Valiant & am sure the back stud is broken. The exhaust manifold doesn't sit flush with the intake & is higher than the head suggesting the exhaust is warped. Yes it is loud. Thanks.
Author:  Kevin Johnson [ Tue Jan 26, 2010 4:37 am ]
Post subject: 
It's not mentioned in the article: Don't ever remove or loosen the bolts on a cast manifold while it is still hot. It will have a good chance of warping.
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