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Slant 6 roller cam????
https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=38924		 Page 1 of 2
Author:  billdedman [ Sat Feb 06, 2010 10:47 pm ]
Post subject:  Slant 6 roller cam????
I am new to slant 6's, but not new to MoPar.

I want to build a high-boost turbocharged 225 slant 6.

This will be a blow-thru carbureted, HOPEFULLY, high-output engine in a 1964 Valiant drag car, built for no particular class, but just something to have fun with.
Not wanting to deal with ZDDP issues, I would much prefer to "pay the freight" for a a roller-lifter cam, but don't know whether anybody grinds such a cam for a slant 6.

Can somebody who is knowledgeable about /6s give me a clue about the roller-cams for /6's, if they even exist?

Thanks for any information!!!!

Bill, in Conway, Arkansas
Author:  Fopar [ Sat Feb 06, 2010 11:38 pm ]
Post subject: 
Bill,
Using search function - I found this post (look at the date)

Message
Mark Goodman
Guest
Post subject: Roller Cams (Thu Jun 07, 2001 9:51 pm)
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

On the subject of roller cams I contacted various camshaft companies 3 years ago and could not find any that could grind the dist. drive gear.The equipment at that time could only grind the gear on the end of the cam. We had a blank made and had Lunati finish it with no gear since we run a belt drive oil pump and Electromotive ignition. We also used lifters out of a hemi.
Author:  billdedman [ Sun Feb 07, 2010 12:41 am ]
Post subject:  Thanks, Mark!!!
I appreciate the information!

I'm beginning to understand why there don't seem to be any roller cams for /6s around!

There's gotta be a cure for this blank shortage, somehow...

Perhaps a conventional blank (for a flat tappet cam) might have enough meat on it....

Bill
Author:  Charrlie_S [ Sun Feb 07, 2010 4:57 am ]
Post subject: 
Hi Bill. Welcome to the site. I think you will find all the slant info you need, here.
Author:  DusterIdiot [ Sun Feb 07, 2010 7:44 am ]
Post subject:  Fyi...
Cox Brothers had made a run of blanks back about 2002-2003...they were a billet steel blank that would have to be sent to a company to have the lobes shaped, the base circle was 0.600"...I know doc has one and I'm not sure about what happened to the other blanks. They did mention that it was a race only peice and you would be tearing down the engine regularly to see if the lifters or cam had wear....for our engines the price outweighted the power increase (at the time it was $1200 per blank + shipping + cam company costs).

Doc had tryed to see if he could make a cast camshaft and Austemper the cam...if you do a search you'll see the results...it made good power, but the austempering ground away and he ended up with a pan full of "chunks" which ended the experiment.

I would think this would be possible to use one if:
1)Use a remove oil pump
2)Use a DIS setup to get rid of the distributor (now you have no need for the gear)
3)Figure out a way to keep the cam from walking, as it depends on the gear and the oil pump/dizzy to hold it in place, and the timing cover even with a cam button isn't 100% solid...


-D.Idiot
Author:  billdedman [ Sun Feb 07, 2010 2:56 pm ]
Post subject: 
Thanks, friend from Oregon.

I have, since I wrote that question, had some good input from other sources, and they all told me prestty much what you have here.

In view of the facts about this project, I think I'll pass.... too much B.S. for the hoped-for benefits.

Thanks for the good information!!! You have probably saved me a lot of grief....

Bill, in Conway, AR
Author:  DusterIdiot [ Sun Feb 07, 2010 5:49 pm ]
Post subject:  Let us know...
If you decide to go a different direction we have plenty of information to help you out...

I know how you feel...
I had "worked out" a long rod build up in my spare time in Iraq (poor Rob Simmons saw the dry erase board in my office during a visit...I think he got worried I was building a weapon of mass destruction wrather than a slant six...). It looked really good on paper, nice broad flat torque band was going to go EFI natural aspirated the numbers said it should have gone a smidge over 300hp...I even had to dig through all the cam grinders master lobe catalogs to find an intake and exhaust lobe that looked right...I came home and called the Cox Brothers one morning, talked for a good 45 minutes... after that, I decided to just stay with flat tappets...

I might revisit the roller cam one day...(when my wife quits working at the Lottery and I can play!).

Good Luck,

-D.Idiot
Author:  billdedman [ Sun Feb 07, 2010 9:58 pm ]
Post subject: 
I

D.,

I should have intimated just what it is that I am trying to do, here.

I already have a mid-11-second quarter-mile play toy that I run brackets with, from time-to-time, but it's not a "six."

I want a \6 car that can do that, and more...

You see, I go to breakfast every Saturday, with a group of about 8-10 guys who all have Buick Grand-Nationals.

They are sort of impressed with themselves, and I'd like to knock a few of those turbo-wonders off their pedastal with an old Valiant... Mine will do it, to an extent, but this car I waant to build will do a better job; after all, it's just an inline 6.... :)

The plan is, a '64 Valiant, gutted (2,400 pounds) with a turbocharged 225/904/8.75" combination running a ported head, an alky-modified, Holley blow-thru 650 carb, and LOTS OF BOOST... on the order of 25-30 PSI... Good Forged Rods, forged crank and some hi-quality forged pistons., 8:1 variety.

I need about 400 HP to do what I want to do, and with reliability.

The BUicks will qun quicker, but not MUCH quicker, and everytime they do, the blow something...

Just two old guys havin' fun (I'm 71; my partner in this car is '72....)
Author:  emsvitil [ Sun Feb 07, 2010 10:39 pm ]
Post subject: 
With that kind of boost, I'm wondering if you'd be better off with a 170 or 198 and turn more rpms...........
Author:  Fopar [ Sun Feb 07, 2010 11:25 pm ]
Post subject: 
Go to Race Results in the forum index and see what some of the people have done with the /6
Author:  Dart270 [ Mon Feb 08, 2010 6:21 am ]
Post subject: 
Welcome!

Search users "turbo66valiant" and "Shaker223". They are on this trail. 630 HP has been made on 20 lbs boost in Australia and run 10.69 @128 in a street driven 3200 lb car (Cameron Tilley).

You don't need a big, high rate cam. Something like 224 @ 0.050" is all you need, which will live fine with weak springs and current oil.

You might contact 66aCuda, who is a Slant 6 nut also in Arkansas.

Happy building,

Lou
Author:  billdedman [ Mon Feb 08, 2010 6:31 am ]
Post subject: 
Thanks, Lou, for that good information. I appreciate it a lot.

Frank is a personal friend of mine, already, and he has visited me at my house here in Conway. I'm sure he's going to be a big help with this project.

I'm learning a lot here, and hopefully wont make too many BIG mistakes putting this thing together.

That's good news about the cam specs. I was considering buying a 215/215 @ .050"-lift cam that lifts .510 and maybe puttting a set of high-lift rockers on it, if I can find some.

Is that recommended, or are high-lift rockers too hard on the cam/lifter interface?

I think Erson has such a cam....

Any advice will be appreciated.

Bill, in Conway, Arkansas
Author:  Dart270 [ Mon Feb 08, 2010 6:57 am ]
Post subject: 
Slant 6's do not seem to want a lot of lift in hi perf cams. Most head flow charts I've seen don't gain much over 0.450-0.500" lift, and that is for all out heads. Most "normally" ported heads are done before 0.500". For those lifts, though, they flow very well for the displacement of our cylinders.

0.460-0.480" lift should be plenty for what you are doing, and the stock rockers are an excellent design so no need to spend money there.

A ballpark recommendation for you is the Erson 280/270 (yes more int duration) and ask for 110 or 112 deg LSA.

Lou
Author:  Shaker223 [ Mon Feb 08, 2010 8:02 am ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
I



The plan is, a '64 Valiant, gutted (2,400 pounds) with a turbocharged 225/904/8.75" combination running a ported head, an alky-modified, Holley blow-thru 650 carb, and LOTS OF BOOST... on the order of 25-30 PSI... Good Forged Rods, forged crank and some hi-quality forged pistons., 8:1 variety.

I need about 400 HP to do what I want to do, and with reliability.


Just two old guys havin' fun (I'm 71; my partner in this car is '72....)
Good deal for you guys!!!

400 crank HP is certainly doable with a stock motor. Pretty dependable too. Just watch the tune. Mine calcs to around 450.

Google search Shaker223.
You will find builds on these boards: Slant six, Turbo Mopars, Turbo Mustangs...etc


In theory, your car should be able to run 126 mph with my combo. My race weight was 3500lbs and yours (assuming 200 for driver) is 900 lighter. That is way into the 10's.
Author:  billdedman [ Mon Feb 08, 2010 9:09 am ]
Post subject: 
Shaker,

I want to thank you for your encouragement and for having proved already, that what we are trying to accomplish is in fact, very "do-able."

Would it be possible for you to send the basics of your combination to my email box (Billdedman@Hotmail.com)????

We have the car, but haven't bought any speed parts yet, so are in a good position not to waste any money running down "bunny trails" on this project.

I was apparently way off-base on my desired boost-levels. I guess I'd spent too much time listening to the Buick guys talk about how much faster their cars are when they crank it up to 30+ pounds.... but then, they always fry a piston, or blow the head gaskets.... lol!

Maybe I'll start out at 10 pounds, and see what that brings.

My current 360 Magnum with a Vortech V-1 in a blow-thru 750 Holley runs 10 pounds, and I use a Snowperformance Boost Cooler (Stage I) instead of an Intercooler. I'll probably do the same on the six.

Thanks a lot for any information!!!

Bill, in cold, snowy Conway, AR
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