Here is my deal. I have a rebuilt 225 with a 1920 on it. It idles fine and has a slight hesitation but when you get it out on the road it feel like it has no power and will start missing when you lay into it.
These are the things I have checked.
timimg is dead on
Points dwell at 42 with no flux
replace plugs,cap, rotor,new points.

Do you guys have any ideas that may help me. Carb was a rebuilt from Checker.

Welcome on the board. "Remanufactured" carburetors are junk even if bought from pro-grade auto parts stores. See here. Buying one from a "Harry Homeowner and Debbie Do-It-Yerselfer" type of place like Checker practically guarantees the car won't run well. You'll need a better carburetor.

Carburetor operation and repair manuals and links to training movies and carb repair/modification threads are posted here for free download. Tune-up parts and technique suggestions in this thread. I may have a new (not "remanufactured") carburetor for your '71; send me a PM if you are interested.

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Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

How about the valve lash adjustment, has that been set correctly?
What is "timing is dead-on"?
Are you saying that the initial is set to factory specs? Have you checked to see if the mechanical advance is working and limited to 30 degrees total?
DD

I adjusted the valves to .010 and .020 tell me what this valve lash adjustment you speak of?
Timing is set at 2 1/2deg below TDC
How do I check for mech adv and limit at 30 degrees ??

See the valve adjustment procedure and compare it to the procedure you used. Specifically, if you set the lash at 0.010" and 0.020" with the engine stone cold, they'll be too tight at operating temperature.
If "below" means "before", that's an OK setting.
With the engine idling, apply mouth vacuum to the vacuum advance hose while you point a timing light at the timing mark. If the mark advances and the engine speeds up, and you cannot suck air thru the hose (it holds vacuum) then the vacuum advance is OK. With the vacuum advance still disconnected, rev up the engine while still watching the timing mark. It should advance to a max of roughly 30 degrees (you'll have to guess unless you have a dialback timing light or you've marked up the crank pulley as described here). If so, the mechanical advance system is working correctly.

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Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Thanks Dan I will check those things and get back to you.
Is there a better setting than 2 1/2 BTDC ?

Since you're up at altitude, 5° to 7° BTDC is probably a better setting. But one thing you have to be careful of is that the timing mark is on the outer "ring" member of the crankshaft pulley, which is connected to the inner "hub" member by rubber. Over time, the bond can break and the outer ring (which also carries the belt groove) can shift relative to the hub, spoiling the accuracy of the timing mark. You'll want to find TDC in the frontmost cylinder (the TDC when both valves are closed) and make sure the timing mark points to 0 on the indicator. You can use a straightened-out piece of coat hanger wire inserted into the spark plug hole to find TDC; it doesn't need to be as accurate as it needs to be when you're degreeing-in a camshaft or something like that.

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Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Tim,

I run mine at 8 degrees but I have a very fast recurve (light springs), so I limit it to 8, not to over advance and have it go flat.........or ping.
With stock distributor you may get away with 8 up to 12 degrees initial.
If your near TDC the engine is pretty lifeless compared to having a little more timing. Just advancing it to 6 degrees initial should make a noticeable change.

You may have some other issues if the engine is falling flat.
Examples: worn out timing chain, water in the gas, a failing coil, blown vacuum advance pod, stuck distributor plate, etc...

Are you using the Blue Streak cap, MO-3000 rotor and NGK plugs per SL6 Dan's suggestions?

If all is well and you advance the initial timing it should be allot peppier.

Do you know what #jet is in your carb?

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

No I do not what size the jet is but i will look. thanks for the reply..

I would check all of the above advice and check the pump shot (look down the bore of the carb with safety glasses on and pull the throttle and see if you see a nice "squirt" of gas come out the side of the bore hitting the booster... if you get a small squirt/dribble and hesitation or no squirt and a "bog"...use Dan's manuals and adjust the pump lever to the next hole...if still nothing the carb needs some help...if that makes things a bit better out, the next thing to tackle is the jet...if under #57, you'll need to up jet a bit...

-D.Idiot