i'm beginning my recurve project.

i find myself with 3 distributors to play with.

i have noticed some differences that i have not heard mentioned in any of the recurve pages i find.

2 of the dizzy bodies r identical. only the trigger devices r different.
the 3rd, and the unit that was most recently in the van, has a slightly narrower space @ the bottom of the bell.(meaning the inner space where the fly-weights live). the plate where the weights attach to is shorter, to fit in the narrower space. this dizzy was set up with equal springs on it. they r shorter then the others spring. they also have a loop that is a different shape.

i wonder if this dizzy may not be a good candidate for a recurve? or possible it mite be a less common set of replacement springs i would need to get?


r the plastic gear that engages the cam available as a replacement part? one of my 3idn't survive the dissection.

D~~~!


now which member is it that is selling spring kits?

You can send a pm to bigslant6fan for springs.

Is it possible for you to post some pics, I think the differences you describe may have interest for several members.

Olaf.

_________________
Aspenized

Do a search on here for recurving, pics would be nice to see what you have, the governor plate with shorter slots and short spring would be
the best candidate to start. What makse the triggering devices different?
(Are we talking points vs. EI...or do you have a distributor with the dual EI pickup for the ESC system?

-D.Idiot

i'll work on some pics 2moro. i don't have a photobucket as yet. i'd still like to know how it is that some members can paste pics rite in the body of their posts.

the twin bodied shells, one had points, the other had a single pick up in it. the third/smaller body, also had points.

i don't have any other pieces of the stock EI set up. i was planning to put my Pertronics pick up back in when i found trouble in the dizzy.

the small body shell had a governor marked 11.5. the other 2 have longer slots, but no markings as to what size they r.

reading the documents, it seems i could weld and file and end up with 3 9's.


one for points, one for Pertronics, one for EI(just in case i ever bother to collect the rest of the system?)


D~~~!

They're links to photobucket or equivalent..............

_________________
Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

ok. so how do u get the pic to show, as opposed to just posting the link to the pic?

Microsoft based machines:
Once you have posted a photo to “Photobucketâ€￾, /6 can automatically link to it once its code is placed in your /6 text.

Select a photo in Photbucket that you want to post in /6; place the mouse arrow on that photo, pause until four script boxes appear below that photo. Relocate your arrow to the bottom box, it will turn blue, right click mouse, and left click on “copyâ€￾. You have now captured the correct scrip for an "in text body photo" to be displayed.

Return to /6’s message box, the gray area that one types a message in, make sure the vertical line is showing, place mouse arrow on that line than “Right Clickâ€￾ and then click on “Pasteâ€￾. The script for the photo that you selected will be copied into the body of your message at that point in your text.

For a test:
Scroll down to the “Viewâ€￾ button below the gray script box, click it, and the text that you have composed along with a photo will come up, as it will look once posted.

_________________
67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

Hi gato, you need to have the pics stored on a publicly accessible site, like a homepage. I have my pics on my homepage at the university, but if the pics can bee seen by anyone and are not of a private character, there is free storage place available on Google and other browsers and public service applications, typically 'photobucket' as emsvitil pointed out, and then you follow this recipe to post them here.
Be careful about size (400x300 pixels) here in the forum, just open the pics in a paint program, set a new resolution and save them as copies of the original, set the permissions, and you are ready to publish!

Just remember to have copies, and to make a note of your picture postings and check that the are available from time to time.

THERE ARE MANY DEAD PICTURE LINKS IN THE FORUM!

Olaf.

Edited: I see that I published this at the same time as wjajr, so there you have your recipe!

_________________
Aspenized

thanx for the input.i'm working on it now.

D~~~!

Gato,

Go to Engine FAQ and click on Timing Curve/Recurve information for engine recurve info.
There is quite allot of information in that section. It is very simple to do and will make your engine upgrades come to life by making the engine more responsive and economical.

_________________
Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

instead of taking a bunch of fotos, i put a video up on U-toob.




http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eH4Lm7UcHPc




D~~~!

Gato,

Now we know what parts you have, the 15R governor is best for mileage. When you read about my set up, those are the parts I used.


Is your engine stock? or did you increase compression? Tell us how your engine is built?

_________________
Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

Gato - I saw in your youtube vid that you have an 11.5 governor. is there any chance you could measure the length of the slots for me? I know the 15 is .475", I'm curious about the 11.5, and I don't have one.

The reason I ask is that I wanted less total advance on my governor, so I partially welded the slots of a 15R shut, then milled them back out to the total travel I wanted. I assumed the relationship between the length of the slot and amount of timing was a linear relationship, so I set the slot length to .370" to get in the 11-12 degree ball park.

Aggressive Ted - why do you say the 15R is best for mileage? I just set my dizzy up for about 22 degrees of total advance so I could run more initial timing (10 degrees). I'm assuming with the 15R you'd need to run less initial timing, or thick enough springs that full timing never kicks in?

my engine is a stock block. nothing fancy. and it's been in service since 1990.
the compression is a little low from all the years, but it's still even across the cylinders. i've done the BBD conversion. it has Clifford shorties on it and i had a custom exhaust with a custom length, extra long glasspack up under the van and a tiny glasspack, aft of the axle, as a silencer.

my hope for this recurve is to get a bit more pep from a stop, and to eliminate the ping at freeway speeds.
i have been setting the static timing between 5 & 10*BTDC.
if i understand what i've read, i should stay with the 11.5 governor, and set the initial at 7*. i'm still a bit foggy about when the vacuum pod comes into play and how it affects the initial/mechanical setting.

gato, I'm tagging along a bit on this too, since I'm tuning up my distributor recurve, too.

I can field the vacuum advance question, though. Vacuum advance is pretty much just for mileage - it adds advance at part throttle only. Properly functioning (and hooked to the correct advance port on the carb), it should not be adding advance at idle or WOT. Only during low load cruise ( ie, light part throttle operation) should it be adding any timing advance. If you hook up a vacuum gauge to the vacuum advance port on the carb and watch it while you drive around, you'll get an idea for when the pod should be working.

The rule of thumb I've always heard/used for vacuum advance is "As much as possible without pinging."

You do want to have the pod disconnected until you get your initial/total timing set up where you want it. Once you're happy with that, you can reconnect the vacuum pod and touch it into the curve.