A couple of questions (three, actually):

I hve a 1975 225 sl6 and am about to replace the timing chain and gears.

Q1: once I line up the timing marks on the gears, is there any chance I could be at the wrong TDC? [When I took the old chain and gears out, they were not lined up (two teeth off) and the engine was running rough with low compression in all cyl.]

Q2: when I replace the balancer, I was thinking of driving it on using a piece of 2x4 between the mallet and balance, or is there a better way to do this?

Q3: Is it necessary to use any kind of gasket dressing on the cover gaskets?

Thanks


Dan

Yes, but it won't matter as long as the distributor is inserted correctly for #1 TDC.
Use a balancer installation tool. Lot's of folks use a hammer and block of wood with no ill effects, but it's not the preferred method.
If you aren't taking the pan off, there should be some instructions on where to use RTV to improve sealing. Personally, I've not had stellar results when not pulling the pan. There is always a bit of a leak. You may have to do some trimming per the instructions.

CJ

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

1. If you line up the timing marks on the crank and cam gears you'll be at TDC firing for #6.

2. I've done it this way, but it's better to rent/borrow/buy a harmonic balancer installer. If you tap it on part way a small block damper bolt will get you the rest of the way home. Make sure the threads in the crank are clean though!

3. I like the Permatex Aviation Form-a-Gasket for flat paper/fiber gaskets. There is a brush in the can and a little goes a long way.

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Joshua

Don't forget to apply some engine assembly grease to both the crankshaft and the balancer bore to prevent galling. Lubriplate 105 is what I use.

The correct puller/installer tools are not that expensive. If you must use a hammer, remember that you are also hammering on the thrust bearing and that an angled blow can bend the crankshaft. Be gentle.

Ken

My balancer installation tool for this engine is just a 6" long bolt, nut and large fender washer. If I remember right the crank snout hole is 3/4" - 16.

You can just get this at a decent hardware store, no pricey tool that you will seldom use.

I agree with anothersix,3/4-16 (fine thead). buy a piece of the threaded rod from a good hardware store,often it comes in 3 foot lenths.You only need about 8 inches,so you can make 4 "tools" from it.They will fit all mopar S/6s,small and big block V-8s.Get 4 nuts to go with it,and you will be set for life,doing the job correctly

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V8?? We don't need no stink'n V8!!

Thanks much for the help; am putting the information to good use.

dan

Yes—there have been cam sprockets over the years with the mark 180° away from where it "should" be. Keep in mind that even with properly-stamped marks, lining up the dots does not guarantee correct cam timing. It's really very much better to degree-in the cam properly, even though it takes a little more time and a couple more pieces of (inexpensive) equipment. See here.
No. Don't hammer or whack the damper (2x4 or no 2x4); you'll ruin the #3 main bearing and quite possibly damage the damper. Use a ¾"-16 threaded bolt and appropriate washer to draw the damper onto the crank snout. You may need to buy several lengths of this kind of bolt to get the job started and finished; you can leave the 2¼"-long bolt in place once it's installed.
No.

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