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8 3/4 rear end leak
https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=39645		 Page 1 of 2
Author:  gato [ Tue Mar 30, 2010 6:20 am ]
Post subject:  8 3/4 rear end leak
i have a leak that won't go away. it keeps leaking gear oil thru the end play adjuster nut. i have been told that when i had both axles out, something in the pumpkin dropped and made getting a correct end play impossible. that is supposed to be why i can't stop this leak.

it has been suggested to get Kits that switch to non-adjustable bearings.

i've also been told that these kits consist of "green" bearings and there is some question as to whether or not this is a good idea.

just what is a "green" bearing?
what is the deal with reliability?
is it really ok to just leave the dropped part in the bottom of the pumpkin?
is it heavy enuff to just stay where it is?

this A108 is still a daily driver, no race car.

anybody?

D~~~!
Author:  Doc [ Tue Mar 30, 2010 8:27 am ]
Post subject: 
"Green" is the company that makes the bearings. These are sealed ball bearings so they do not take the side loads as well as a Timken taper roller bearing. (the factory installed bearing w/ end play adjustment)

If the unit has a clutch type posi then the center thrust buttion may have "dropped" when the axle shaft was removed. If this is the case, do not drive and remove the center section to place everything back into position.

There is also a small inner seal pressed into the axle's adjuster plate, that seal can get damaged if you have run the vehical with excessive slop in the factory bearings. If damaged, you need to replace that seal to stop gear oil from getting thru.
The bad news, you need to remove / replace the bearing to service the seal and removing the plate w/ a press usually distroys it. Right side adjuster plates are NA these days so I cut / split the old bearing to get it off.

FYI... if anything gets loose and "drops" inside a differential, it will usually distroy the gear set in short order so don't "cut corners" on this... if you suspect that the thurst button has "dropped"... fix it ASAP
DD

Image
Author:  KBB_of_TMC [ Tue Mar 30, 2010 9:25 am ]
Post subject: 
Some years ago I converted back from the Green bearings to the factory tapered ones just for safety, although I know a guy who's run Green bearings on the street for years OK. The orig. plate assemblies had been badly mangled.

I needed new assemblies for both sides, so ordered them from Year One. I was surprised to find that each kit includes the plates (the thing shown sitting on white; one side has an adjuster, the other doesn't) for both sides. It didn't include the little lock piece to keep the adjuster from turning; it seemed to be N/A everywhere, but a buddy had a spare he gave me.

I had a tough time getting that ring off the axle shaft; everything else was fairly easy; just followed the FSM.
Author:  gato [ Tue Mar 30, 2010 1:03 pm ]
Post subject: 
thx for the help guys.

Doc,

i guess getting the job done rite means taking the time to do it rite. . . . . i'll open it up and see what fell out of whack.

TBB,

looking @ year one now and only see Green bearing kits. i do use my van for towing bikes to the desert ocassionally. this past summer it towed a Ford ranger from Wilmington, NC to Utica, NY. if the Green kits allow questionable stress for real work, i think i'll stick with stock. do u have the parts #'s for the kits u ordered?


i think i will only need the kit for the adjuster side. both were put in less than 1 year ago. only the adjuster leaks.

if i find the piece that dropped in the pumpkin, how do i keep it in place long enuff to get the axles back in?



D~~~!
Author:  Doc [ Tue Mar 30, 2010 2:19 pm ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
...if I find the piece that dropped in the pumpkin, how do i keep it in place long enuff to get the axles back in?
There is a 1/8 inch diameter rivet or roll pin thru the middle hole which holds the sections together... the pin will often snap in the middle, which allows the spacer halves to drop-out of position.
You can often use one of the short broken halves to hold the parts together, long enough to re-assemble.
DD

see this ebay auction for a photo:
Image
Author:  Romeo Furio [ Tue Mar 30, 2010 2:27 pm ]
Post subject:  Green
This is just for information, your results may vary. I don't think you should worry about "Green" bearings for daily use. I have some in use 20-30,000 miles and 5+ years drivers. Now if you autocross or drift that may make a difference. Over the last few years they have been upgraded and perform quite well. Again this is just FYI.
Author:  gato [ Wed Mar 31, 2010 6:38 am ]
Post subject: 
when i look into the housing i see the shiney smooth end of the opposite axle.

anybody have a diagram to guide me as to what part i'm looking for in the puddle of goo?

D~~!
Author:  Joshie225 [ Wed Mar 31, 2010 9:50 am ]
Post subject: 
If you have an open (non-Sure-Grip) rear end you should see the floating thrust block that floats on the spider gear pin when looking into the housing. The thrust buttons and roll pin Doc describes are on Sure-Grip differentials and I believe only on the Power Lock type and not the cone type.
Author:  Doc [ Wed Mar 31, 2010 10:04 am ]
Post subject: 
Yes... you really need to check to see if the unit is a Sure-Grip (posi) or an open carrier.
If it is a Sure Grip, only the Power Lock type needs the special spacer... as noted above.

From your discription, it does not sound like a Power lock unit so the cause of the problem could be something else.

Did the axle shafts slide-in easy, go all the way in, bottom-out w/ the retainer plate(s) sitting flat & flush to the axle housing end flanges?
DD
Author:  gato [ Wed Mar 31, 2010 10:19 am ]
Post subject: 
the housing is marked 741. if i have my facts rite, that's not the sure grip. i believe it's the original rear unit. not sure what ratio, but it works for me.

the axles slide in quite easy. sometimes the last 1/2 inch or so will take a little encouragement. but not much.


if there is supposed to be anything in the center i need to open it up. seems to me i was entertaining myself during the brake job with being able to look all the way thru.
Author:  KBB_of_TMC [ Fri Apr 02, 2010 9:51 am ]
Post subject: 
The factory "Rear Axle Shaft Bearing Package" I got from Year One in 1998 had the numbers 3683966 - Y-11R3 on it. I couldn't find any numbers stamped into either side retainer.
Author:  gato [ Sat Apr 03, 2010 8:15 am ]
Post subject: 
i tried that # and got nothing. BUT, looking thru the 24 pages of stuff that came up when i searched "OEM rear wheel bearings", i did find the adjuster locking tab. they call it a pawl. it's under P/N MR619.

anybody willing to hazzard a guess as to whether running my axles while leaking actually damaged the outer seal or not? i wonder if being out of position could have allowed it to leak without cutting it up.

D~~~!
Author:  gato [ Sun Apr 04, 2010 4:46 pm ]
Post subject: 
got the gears out.
nothing seems to have dropped.
any other ideas?
while i have it out, how do i tell what gears i have in it?
Author:  Joshie225 [ Sun Apr 04, 2010 5:46 pm ]
Post subject: 
The factory gears I've seen have the ratio on the ring gear. Otherwise count the number of teeth on the ring gear and divide by the number of teeth on the pinion.
Author:  gato [ Sat Apr 17, 2010 10:13 pm ]
Post subject:  next?
got the pumpkin all cleaned up. found i have a 3.23 gear in there.

there was nothing fallen to the bottom of the housing. everything seems to be in place.
any other ideas what to look for?
back to my original question?
is the outer seal a looser fit on the axle than the inner seal?

i really suspect the inner seal. i'm just trying to understand why the gear oil got past the outer seal after the inner failed.
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