Ordered a full set of brake lines for the BV project, since her 1967 lines are not compatible with the disk brake setup and prop block (and they are 43 years old..so time for new lines...)

Called Fine Lines today to order all the brake lines...Nice guy...not the most knowledgeable... I told him I need all the brake lines for a 1974 Duster standard brakes...all the lines MC to prop block, prop block to front brakes and line to the rear axle...then it started:

"What's it going into?" 1967 Valiant.
"That's a B-body right?" No. A-body... I just need the lines for a 1974 Duster manual disk brake car..
"1967? That won't fit it's not even the same car as the 1974, or 1973-1976..."
Ummm... yes it is, you must be thinking of the 1963-1966 cars...
"I have a brake line set up that converts those early cars to the late disk brake set up..."
No, the 1967 is the same "body"/shell 1967-1976...(108"/111" wheelbases considered)
"What's the wheelbase?" 106" technically, but 108" is close enough.
"Are you sure?" Driveline for a duster bolted up fine...should be OK for 108"

Sheesh...

Just give me the #%@%$# brake lines...

Hopefully the brakes are better quality, than the sales/tech help...

-D.Idiot

'67 Valiant has 108" wheelbase, not 106". Aside from that, your story reminds me of my story.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

ouch..reminds me of when i was trying to get a replacement carb from holley cause the first reman didn't idle. i started talking about metering blocks and other carb parts and he just gave me a blank stare like whats a carburetor? they should start making some higher requriements for part's men haha.

Sorry, should have clarified, I just wanted to see if he'd even catch that, but..yeah pretty much "You want fries with that?"



-D.Idiot

Rob- let us know how this turns out. I may order a set of lines for my brother's 74 Duster. If you actually get the right parts, then the price is right.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

I was very please with Fine Lines, but after I got the installation done I found that they have some advice on their website about using "Permatex #14a Thread Sealant with Teflon" on the fittings - wish I'd seen that 1st.

I must have talked to a different guy. He said they supply parts for a lot of A-body conversions and knew exactly what I needed.

That's what he told me too, I tried to tell him it wasn't a 63-66...my 67 has the same floor pans as the '74 short wheel base cars...I just don't think they knew where the "break" in the model years was... the only thing really different is the parking brake cables route down the driver's side. not the big cable loop the late cars have...

There is not much difference between chassis's and brake lines. For example, I am using the brake lines for a '75 Dart in my '65 Dart. They fit like a glove.

Their "kit" for a split brake system in the '64 - '66 A-bodies are most likely the same thing they sell for the post '67 cars.

Parking brake linkage is all over the place. For example my old '71 Demon had the lines down the right side, the '75 Dart parts car had a U shaped loop and my '65 has a V shaped loop. It is interesting that the parking brake mechanism from the '75, bolted right into my '65.

That is one of the nice things about the Chrysler A-body, there was a 13 year production run with basically the same chassis. So everything interchanges between the years.

If I can comment without taking over the thread, KBB_of_TMC said: On double-flared brake pipes, nothing should be necessary to use on the fittings to prevent leaks, if they leak they are faulty or over-thightened so the flaring is destroyed, and should not be used!

Why not buy copper-nickel brake lines (no rusting, no cracking, no ageing) and bend your own lines? A small pipecutter, a chep bending tool, and a double-flare making tool (buy together) is all you need. They will last for the rest of the car's lifetime! Some links: fedhillusa.com and cu-ni-brake-tubing.pdf

A very cool way to make the bends in a new pipe while the old one is still fitted so you cannot use it as a model; use a strand of thick soldering tin along the old line to form the shape you need to make a model.
Olaf

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Aspenized

Fine Lines at http://www.finelinesinc.com/common.php specifically recommends using the sealant at the flared fitting with their stainless lines. I didn't use any, and w/o it the harder stainless tended to weep just a little until I used excessive torque tightening them down. The next time I remove them, I'll follow their recommendation!

I've fabricated my own lines for cars that Fine Lines didn't cover, but they did a beautiful job on my Plymouth's.

I bought the lines for my 64 from them. I ordered them for a 67 with disc brakes. It fit fine.

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64' Valiant Signet 5.9, 64' Dart 170 moredoor 3.7, 67' A100 3.7, 00' Dakota SLT 4.7

Sure, but in that case both cars have the same 111" wheelbase.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Well they dinged my credit card middle of last week...hopefully they will be arriving after the Easter weekend...

-D.Idiot

I didn't use the rear section. I made my own out of part store brake line. I meant across the firewall and down to the stock mounting points on the frame rails.