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1972 Scamp multiple problems.
https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=39711		 Page 1 of 1
Author:  BMXICAN [ Sun Apr 04, 2010 4:07 pm ]
Post subject:  1972 Scamp multiple problems.
Alright, I've been doing some electrical work on my Scamp.

The fuel and coolant temperature gauge do not work.
I took apart the dash, it already has a regulator built into the back of the gauge cluster, what else could be causing my gauges not to work?

Image

Also, the car cranks over occasionally and then I hear a clicking, rattling sound and I have to mess with the automatic column shifter to get it to start, moving the lever between P and N until it clicks the "right way" and starts.

I know the noise is coming from a relay, I included a picture on top. I have no clue what it is, it has the numbers 3588587 and 36033 on it.

Any help would be much appreciated, thanks guys!
Author:  SlantSixDan [ Sun Apr 04, 2010 4:15 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: 1972 Scamp multiple problems.
Quote:
The fuel and coolant temperature gauge do not work.
I took apart the dash, it already has a regulator built into the back of the gauge cluster, what else could be causing my gauges not to work?
The regulator is probably faulty, if both of those gauges don't work. Replace it. Use this one if you're smart.
Quote:
Also, the car cranks over occasionally and then I hear a clicking, rattling sound and I have to mess with the automatic column shifter to get it to start, moving the lever between P and N until it clicks the "right way" and starts.
Your Neutral Safety Switch is faulty. It's a combination Neutral Safety/Reverse lamp switch screwed into the transmission. Replace it.
Author:  BMXICAN [ Sun Apr 04, 2010 4:22 pm ]
Post subject: 
Thanks Dan, I guess that explains why my reverse lights don't work either. Pretty spendy regulator, hopefully it's worth it.

Thanks so much!

PS: Do you know what this box (relay) is? I went through a bunch of threads, seems like no one could agree what it was.

I know my vehicle didn't have a seatbelt interlock box (I looked everywhere!) but I did find seatbelt safety warning light, sensors under the bench, a buzzer, etc.

Thanks again!
Author:  SlantSixDan [ Sun Apr 04, 2010 5:13 pm ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
PS: Do you know what this box (relay) is?
It looks like your horn relay.
Quote:
I know my vehicle didn't have a seatbelt interlock box
Right, that was only on '74 models.
Author:  BMXICAN [ Mon Apr 05, 2010 1:59 pm ]
Post subject: 
Ordered that limiter, damn it was a bit pricy, but it's american made and solid state so it should be worth it at $62 shipped. Due in on Friday.

I also got a neutral safety switch from Napa. You where right, tested the switch and it was bad. So glad I had a 1" crow's foot, or else getting it out next to the exhaust would have been hard! I'll keep you posted, thank you!
Author:  BMXICAN [ Fri Apr 09, 2010 1:56 pm ]
Post subject: 
I got the limiter, nice little piece!
Seems like a quality company.... :D

I installed it, my gauges still won't work. Any troubleshooting suggestions? Thanks you!
Author:  SlantSixDan [ Fri Apr 09, 2010 2:03 pm ]
Post subject: 
Gauges themselves could be toast if the old limiter stuck closed and sent 12v to 'em. Instrument cluster ground could be faulty (or missing -- if you are checking for function with the cluster out of the car, that won't work; you would need to connect a temporary ground wire). Could be open circuits on the gauge circuit board, or a loss of feed at the main multi-pin disconnect.
Author:  BMXICAN [ Fri Apr 09, 2010 2:52 pm ]
Post subject: 
Hopefully they aren't fried, they worked for a bit and stopped working when I first got the car. I'm sure that doesn't mean much though...

Where is the instrument cluster ground located? Thanks Dan!
Author:  SlantSixDan [ Fri Apr 09, 2010 3:11 pm ]
Post subject: 
It grounds via the mount points.
Author:  BMXICAN [ Fri Apr 09, 2010 6:29 pm ]
Post subject: 
Well, I don't think the ground is the problem.
I read the instructions for the limiter, it says if plugged in correctly, it will flash a red led, which it does.

Do you think my gauges are fried?
Any way to test them?
Thanks again for your time!
Author:  SlantSixDan [ Fri Apr 09, 2010 7:18 pm ]
Post subject: 
Apply a regular 9v square battery to the pins on the back of the gauges. If the needle moves, the gauge is good. If not, it's fried.
Author:  BMXICAN [ Sat Apr 10, 2010 9:14 am ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
Apply a regular 9v square battery to the pins on the back of the gauges. If the needle moves, the gauge is good. If not, it's fried.
Thanks Dan, I'll have to rip the dash apart again later on and try it, if they are fried, what is a good source to restore my gauges?
Author:  SlantSixDan [ Sat Apr 10, 2010 9:21 am ]
Post subject: 
Your gauges repaired by R/T Engineering (website organisation sucks, this refers to E-bodies, but they do repair all Mopar gauges)

Or get new ones from Year One.
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