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| Hydraulic Clutch Conversion https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=39741 |
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| Author: | kipamore [ Tue Apr 06, 2010 6:59 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Hydraulic Clutch Conversion |
Hi fellas. Got a question that someone might know the answer to. I'm putting an 833OD in a non-mopar. This vehicle has a hydraulic clutch with a hydraulic slave cylinder that would have pushed on a regular clutch fork. Clearance in this swap is tight, so I'm looking into using a hydraulic throwout bearing for the 833 in place of the bulky fork. Howe and Ram sell such a TOB for $140 or so. But Summit sells one for a strait 6 Jeep for $40 (link below). Is there any reason to think the jeep unit wouldn't work, assuming it fits over the trans input shaft and it mates up with the pressure plate fingers? Kip On Truckin' |
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| Author: | gmader [ Wed Apr 07, 2010 6:40 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
It sounds like it should work. These things are stupidly simple. Greg |
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| Author: | Rick Covalt [ Wed Apr 07, 2010 8:15 am ] |
| Post subject: | info |
If this works please post back and let us know. That would be a very reasonable TOB. How does it mount to the nose of the transmission? Rick |
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| Author: | emsvitil [ Wed Apr 07, 2010 3:35 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
When the slave cylinder goes out, you'll have to remove the tranny..................... |
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| Author: | kipamore [ Wed Apr 07, 2010 6:38 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Not exactly sure what I'm looking at, but the Howe TOB looks like this: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HRE-8288/ McLeod sells one for a whopping $359 and it looks like this: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MCL-1400-30/ and the $37 Jeep version looks like this: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ZZZ-051439/ I'd hoped to have time today to mock up the transmission to clutch, take some measurements, and go down to Summit and find something that will work but I didn't get the chance. Hopefully Sunday. I'm post everything I find out of course. |
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| Author: | kipamore [ Wed Apr 07, 2010 7:00 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Ems, Good point. I guess that would be true for any hydraulic throw out bearing. The reasons I'm even pursuing doing the clutch hydraulicly is space. This is a very non-standard swap and space in the area of the clutch fork is critical. If this were a Valiant or a Dart I'd just get the Zbar and be done with it. But the clutch that comes factory for my vehicle is a master/slave arrangement, and using a HTOB will save me the trouble of having to mount the slave cylinder. More to come... |
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| Author: | Rick Covalt [ Sun Jun 13, 2010 1:52 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Bump |
Any more info on this? Rick |
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| Author: | kipamore [ Sun Jun 13, 2010 6:26 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Funny that you mention it - I just worked on it today. Went to Summit Racing (they are only 8 miles away, jealous?) and splurged on the Howe HTOB. Went to fit it onto engine. It fits - sort of. The piece itself is about 2" deep. It fits the trans input shaft okay with a bit of slop, but by itself it comes up about an 1.5" short of engaging the clutch fingers. Fortunatly it comes with shims to shim it toward the clutch. Unfortunatly, even with 1" worth of shims it's still far short. It also comes with a threaded stud that replaces one of the bolts on the input bearing retainer. The idea is that this stud sticks out a couple inches and keeps the HTOB from rotating. Fortunatly, the stud provided had the right threads. Unfortunatly, when the HTOB is where it needs to be the stud is 1-2" too short to actually do anything. Unfortunatly, the HTOB requires -4AN fittings which are relatively expensive. Fortunatly, Howe sells a bleeder line kit so you can bleed the thing. Unfortunatly, the kit is $55 for a lousy piece of hose. Fortunatly, Howe sells extra packs of shims which would probably be enough to make the thing work. Unfortunatly, they get $20 for them, and it's just a bunch of cup washers. At this point I have a two pronged plan to complete this hydraulic clutch conversion. Part one is to go back to Summit and get the $40 Chevy HTOB and return the Howe. The Chevy piece won't fit either, but all I need do is shim it out just like I would need to shim the Howe. From the pictures, the Chev piece looks a lot thicker than the Howe. When that doesn't work, plan #2 is: I have a spare stock TOB, and I figure I can sawsall off the base (the clip side) thus using it to make a collar/shim. Wish me luck. See the HTOB in question here: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HRE-82870/ |
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| Author: | Volare4life [ Sun Jun 13, 2010 7:16 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
What ever happend to the cheap jeep TOB ?? -Mike |
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| Author: | kipamore [ Sun Jun 13, 2010 9:34 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
I thought I'd throw money at the problem and it would go away. Guess I was wrong. Here's a Ram brand bearing for a GM that might work: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RAM-78100/ Here's a Ram for a Jeep: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RAM-1758/ Tilton sells this for a whopping $300: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TIL-61-600/ But's who's this at $35? http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ZZZ-ST4088/ And over at Keisler, they sell this kit for $650. If you blow up the picture, THAT is the one I need, and I'm 75% sure a company named Dorman makes it: http://keislerauto.com/mopar/mopar-part ... e_acc.html And here's a YouTube video of Keisler actually installing the thing: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F0MvIBxh ... re=related The quest continues.... |
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| Author: | Volare4life [ Mon Jun 14, 2010 4:46 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
keep us posted bro, love to know the results !!! -Mike |
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