Hi Folks,

My first post here. I have enjoyed and learned so much from this forum and value the opinions and helpful hints of countless members. But today, I am in a quandary.

Can anyone tell me what length, thread size and hardness rating I should be looking for in a stud for the intake to exhaust manifold connection? I don't mean the ones that fit into the cylinder head, but the ones that connect the intake body to the exhaust manifold.

I recently purchased a "new" OEM Mopar exhaust manifold and it came with the requisite manifold fastener kit #3744826, but not with the bolts and stud.

Judging by the pictures I have studied, (wish that I could post one or two here) the two outboard intake to exhaust manifold screws appear to be grade 8, but I don't know the thread pitch or the bolt size. Same goes for the inboard intake to exhaust stud. Wondering if this - http://www.nutsandbolts.com/3824-saex17 ... p-865.html - might work for my purposes regarding the stud?

Thank you, one and all.

oldmaximus
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thank you. thank you. perfectly calm.

Welcome on the board! Offhand I don't know the thread sizes for the bolts you're after, but your guesses are about right. Take the manifold with you to the hardware store and then you'll be sure to get the correct thread. Grade 8 is correct, or use stainless. Either way, use some anti-seize compound. It is very much worth your while to get the good gaskets for the manifolds-to-head and intake-to-exhaust junctions. See here and here for additional manifold installation and hardware advice.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

The outboard intake to exhaust bolts are 5/16-18 thread. Need to be about 4" long to extend thru the bottom of the exhaust so you can bolt kickdown linkage on the bottom.

Make sure the thread goes up high enough on the bolt so as to pass thru the exhaust manifold and still have enough to extend thru the bottom. I was having a difficult time finding them with long enough threads so I bought a length of proper grade all-thread, ready-rod, whatever you want to call it and nuts to make my own.

Dan's tip for using stainless bolts rates a bit of caution. If you do go the stainless steel bolt route buy at least one more bolt than you need, plus a nut for it. Take the extra bolt and nut combo, put the nut in a vice, and wrench the bolt until it breaks, use a torque wrench and record the torque required. It has been my experience that stainless steel fasteners just "ain't what they used to be." I think cheap imports have one thing to do with stainless fasteners breaking more readily than they might have in the past. Stainless galls as well so the tip on anti seize is a must

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Slanted D150

Or another option is to drill the manifold, use long, cheap bolts, and don't worry when then they break off from the corrosion. It is not like you need grade 8 fasteners to hold the manifolds together.

Thank you, one and all, for your most speedy and helpful replies.
Will definitely be taking the manifold with me to the hardware store.
Anti-seize compound a very good idea - I always try to remember to apply a little to anything I take apart before reassembly... wonderful stuff that anti-seize goop.

I have another used manifold that I am in the process of fighting with to get seized rusted broken studs out of using some spray called "Screw Loose" and a couple of nuts jammed together hoping that with a little coaxing back and forth, they'll bust loose... it is a slow process, but I am not entirely overjoyed at the prospect of having to drill them out.

and, would anyone happen to know where exactly I could get the good gaskets? Does NAPA stock them? Or would I need to order from a mopar/slant six specialty store?

Thanks again.

Max.

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thank you. thank you. perfectly calm.

Ah, I just clicked on the link that SlantSixDan posted in his reply - thank you Dan - regarding the good gaskets. Excellent. I will contacting down under lickety split.

; )

Max

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thank you. thank you. perfectly calm.

I stock the Aussie Gaskets here in Arkansas. Send me a PM if your interested.
Frank
Hum wonder why Dan doesnt catch this>>>>

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Scrapple: Because a mind is a terrible thing to waste.
73 Duster - Race Car
66 Dart Wagon - DD
178" FED
82 D150
All Slant powered

tirol,
If you use a Remflex gasket you don't need to over torque the stainless bolts. 10 pounds is more than enough.......drill through the exhaust manifold so the bolt slips through and use a lock washer and nut. I do the same with the exhaust flange. Get rid of the studs...assembly goes much quicker!

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

I found some lovely grade 8 5/16-18 thread four inch bolts at my local
automotive parts store (Lordco) and I am sourcing out a local fastener supplier - http://www.pacificfasteners.com/ - that might just have what I need in the exhaust stud department.

Thanks again, all.

Max.

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thank you. thank you. perfectly calm.

What Reed said is what I have done before, works fine for me.

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"Ja, Ich fahre ein altes auto."
'78 Volare 225
'67 Charger 318