Slant Six Forum :: Building Super Six

Even in this community a lot of people seek parts for parts sake and not to reach a HP or ET goal. I think David Vizard put it best when he wrote something like: "You don't want the drill bit. You want the hole." In the same manner you don't want a 4bbl carburetor and intake manifold, you want the increased performance. Where a lot of people go wrong is buying parts they don't need, that don't help or help very little for the money spent (poor value).

The first performance slant I built was a performance failure. I had a Holley 390, Clifford intake, Clifford headers, Mopar 276Â°/.490" cam, forged +.030" pistons, high volume oil pump, roller timing set and electronic ignition. I thought I needed all that stuff, but didn't realize all that I had done wrong. The compression ratio was much too low, the distributor curve was wrong and it ended up eating the oil pump and cam gears. It had a really healthy sounding idle, but my '66 Dart was really slow.

After the cam and oil pump gear in that engine failed I put in a Comp 264Â° cam and a stock oil pump. The engine idled much better, was easier on the clutch and was just as fast if not faster. Recurving the distributor made it faster yet. When I finally got the compression ratio up and put big valves in the head the car really ran well. At this point I was road racing the car and poor oil control killed a rod bearing which took out the rod, a piston, the block and crank.

My '67 Valiant has a stock short block including the stock cam. I came into an Offy intake and a Holley 390 at a good price. I had a head milled for compression (it's all of 8.5:1), had larger valves fitted and ported the head myself. I had 2 1/4" exhaust with a Walker Dynomax Super Turbo muffler installed from the stock manifold to the bumper. Ignition is via a recurved stock electronic distributor and an HEI module and coil. This car is just as quick as my '66 Dart was and cost me a fraction to build. I may not have a real fancy drill bit this time, but I have just as nice a hole.

Author:	74dusterkid [ Wed Apr 14, 2010 10:31 pm ]
Post subject:	Building Super Six
I have a 74 Duster with the 225 and I want to build it to a super six what tips should i know i have friends with some left over parts. anything you can tell me will help.

Author:	Joshie225 [ Wed Apr 14, 2010 10:47 pm ]
Post subject:
A Super Six is simply a garden variety 225 with a 2bbl intake manifold, Carter BBD 2bbl carburetor and a 2 1/4" exhaust system to the muffler. There are a couple other supporting pieces, but that's essentially it. If you could tell us about your goals for your Duster we can provide some better guidance toward achieving (or even setting) these goals. Welcome aboard!

Author:	74dusterkid [ Wed Apr 14, 2010 11:04 pm ]
Post subject:
Well I know a Mopar buddy of mine has a four barrel and headers for dual exhaust and an aggressive cam. As for my goals I want her to be fast leaving it with the six, because... well it's an awesome motor. I was thinking of putting a totally custom turbo kit in it, but now I'm thinking of leaving it N/A for the sound and "sportmenship" of it. My duster needs a lot of work. As soon as I replace it as my daily driver I want to drop the engine and build it up!

Author:	ceej [ Thu Apr 15, 2010 12:57 pm ]
Post subject:
Welcome to the Forum! So a street strip build? I take it your not wanting to build a super six, rather your looking for a 4bbl build? What goals have you got for it? Drag racing, ET or are you going to do something else with the car? Building for the strip is going to be different from building for a road course. Be as specific as possible, and look through the FAQ's in the Engine area. There are some build Matrices there. Give us an idea of your budget. Some builds are relatively inexpensive. Others are not. CJ

Author:	74dusterkid [ Fri Apr 16, 2010 2:34 pm ]
Post subject:
Thanks. I originally thought a super six was the 4bbl build not the 2bbl. So, yes my plan is to drop the engine and build a 4bbl set up. I will definitely take it to the drag strip just to see how fast she goes but I am more interested in circuit racing. I would need to beef up the suspension before I do race like that. My goal is to have a fast street car that can stomp stock v8s but keeping with a N/A slant six For the engine I can go for about a grand. I do have friends with some of the parts like the 4bbl intake and carb for 350. So, then I need the cam and headers for exhaust and a gasket kit. What else do I need or to do? Do i need special gaskets? Do I need a new fuel pump or will the stock fuel pump keep up.

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Author:	Joshie225 [ Fri Apr 16, 2010 2:58 pm ]
Post subject:
$1000 will not go very far if you're trying to do engine and suspension work. I have about $500 in parts and labor into my home ported head plus the used $120 intake manifold, ~$100 used carburetor, ~$200 in exhaust work (no headers) plus all the little stuff like gaskets and fluids. That's over $900 and we haven't even touched the wheels, tires, torsion bars or brakes. If your Duster has disc brakes you're ahead of the game, but if not, you'll want them right away. I'm going to quote something I wrote a while back that may be of use to you. Quote: Even in this community a lot of people seek parts for parts sake and not to reach a HP or ET goal. I think David Vizard put it best when he wrote something like: "You don't want the drill bit. You want the hole." In the same manner you don't want a 4bbl carburetor and intake manifold, you want the increased performance. Where a lot of people go wrong is buying parts they don't need, that don't help or help very little for the money spent (poor value). The first performance slant I built was a performance failure. I had a Holley 390, Clifford intake, Clifford headers, Mopar 276Â°/.490" cam, forged +.030" pistons, high volume oil pump, roller timing set and electronic ignition. I thought I needed all that stuff, but didn't realize all that I had done wrong. The compression ratio was much too low, the distributor curve was wrong and it ended up eating the oil pump and cam gears. It had a really healthy sounding idle, but my '66 Dart was really slow. After the cam and oil pump gear in that engine failed I put in a Comp 264Â° cam and a stock oil pump. The engine idled much better, was easier on the clutch and was just as fast if not faster. Recurving the distributor made it faster yet. When I finally got the compression ratio up and put big valves in the head the car really ran well. At this point I was road racing the car and poor oil control killed a rod bearing which took out the rod, a piston, the block and crank. My '67 Valiant has a stock short block including the stock cam. I came into an Offy intake and a Holley 390 at a good price. I had a head milled for compression (it's all of 8.5:1), had larger valves fitted and ported the head myself. I had 2 1/4" exhaust with a Walker Dynomax Super Turbo muffler installed from the stock manifold to the bumper. Ignition is via a recurved stock electronic distributor and an HEI module and coil. This car is just as quick as my '66 Dart was and cost me a fraction to build. I may not have a real fancy drill bit this time, but I have just as nice a hole. The lesson is be very aware of what you are buying and why. If you can't explain why you are buying a certain part you may not need it. Address the problem areas of the stock engine (intake and exhaust flow, compression ratio and valve timing are about it) and leave the rest alone. The stock fuel pump will most likely be fine unless you end up spinning the engine very fast ($$$) or use N2O. So how fast is fast enough? And by how fast I mean both 1/4 mile ET and lateral Gs.

Author:	Reed [ Fri Apr 16, 2010 3:50 pm ]
Post subject:
Josh hit the nail on the head. You say you want to rally race your Duster while keeping it slant six powered. Josh used to rally race a 66 Dart powered by a slant six, and he is probably the, or at least one of, the most knowledgeable folks about road racing a Mopar A-body. Listen to what he says. If I had $1000 and a 74 Duster to spend it on, and if my goal was to rally race it, I would spend the first $1000 on the suspension, and then save up for more suspension work and then engine work. If you are serious about rally racing, you will need to upgrade just about everything in the suspension, front and back. What parts you upgrade first will really depend on how the car is optioned. In 74, a Duster could come with front drum brakes or front disc brakes, with or without a front anti-sway bar, various stiffness torsion bars, and a 7 1/4 (weak) or 8 1/4 (stronger) rear axle. For rally racing, you will need at least the factory front disc brakes, if not something stronger, at least the factory front anti-sway bar, and most likely stiffer torsion bars and leaf springs than what you currently have. Unless you already have the disc brakes and anti-sway bar, obtaining and installing these parts alone will likely eat up the first $1k. Add to that the cost of torsion bars and a possible rear axle upgrade, and you are well over $1k. Also, if you don't already have the later large bolt pattern rims for your car, if you swap to disc brakes you will need at the least new rims, and probably new tires as well. More $$$, also taking you well over $1k. The rear axle swap also requires shortening the driveshaft. Do you see where I am going with this? Any kind of racing really requires a big investment, and $1k just won't get you there. However, I do think that $1k is enough to make some simple repairs and upgrades to your Duster to make it a more enjoyable daily driver. In addition to knowing your end goal, we need to know how your car is currently equipped.

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