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PostPosted: Sun Jun 27, 2010 4:47 am 
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Supercharged

Joined: Sun Jun 04, 2006 4:53 pm
Posts: 4295
Location: Gaithersburg MD
Car Model:
I am currently running MS I which has a very rudimentary fast idle circuit. It puts 12 volts out which shuts off at a predetermined ECT, I think 150.


It is a passable idea that will crutch you through the awkward cold engine need for more air to keep running. MSII has an idle air control, which I may upgrade too at some point, but I want to get this all working right before I change things in any major way. In the mean time I am looking for a solenoid valve which will allow more air to pass than the minimvan purge valve I currently am using. It is a good idea, just does not pass enough air to work as well as I would like. It does not die when cold, but idles around 700 or so, and I would like to push it up to 1200 when cold. It will idle there if I simply pull the hose off the throttle body vacuum tap I have this valve routed too, suggesting a larger valve will do the trick.

I looked at McMaster-Carr's web site and they have tons of these things, but only a few that operate off of 12 volts. Of those there are two things that leave me kind of scratching my head. One is the temp range,and the other is that some of them are rated in SCFM, and I have no idea what kind of flow a 3/8" vacuum line would have, which is the size tubing in the line now.

The temp range varies considerably, but I suspect that this range is one in which liquid will start damaging the internals if it exceeds these limits, and not temp of the environment.

The other alternative is to put a second similar valve paralleling the first one,which would double the flow, and maybe be about right. If I did this, I could set up a system where one of them has a manual over-ride system so I could kick the idle speed up if needed.

Any thoughts on this? It would be nice to improve the cold start drivability.

Sam

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 27, 2010 5:38 am 
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Supercharged

Joined: Sun Jun 04, 2006 4:53 pm
Posts: 4295
Location: Gaithersburg MD
Car Model:
Here is the page I have been looking at: http://www.mcmaster.com/#air-solenoid-valves/=7ph1q7

The part in consideration now is the style D that takes a 1/8" NPT fitting. The goal is to get this particular valve to move more air than the hose,so that the hose is the limiting factor, and not the valve. In that way I can tailor things with a restrictor of some kind if needed. Thanks for thinking about this.

Sam

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 Post subject: *presses rewind*
PostPosted: Sun Jun 27, 2010 9:13 am 
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Joined: Sat Feb 08, 2003 2:37 pm
Posts: 4194
Location: CA
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This sound familiar? Got the info from here. I believe the fuel selector valve runs a 3/8 fitting which should be plenty.


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 27, 2010 12:20 pm 
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Supercharged

Joined: Sun Jun 04, 2006 4:53 pm
Posts: 4295
Location: Gaithersburg MD
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Very interesting. Did I tell you the first three things that go as you age? Eyes, ears, and, Uhh,.......errr.......uhh. Oh well, it will come to me. :wink:

I did go out this morning and buy what looks like it will work fine at NAPA. It is a purge valve for a Nissan of some kind. But, it looks like the nipples are plenty large enough to handle the air needed. I'm going out to play with it now.

Sam

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 27, 2010 1:02 pm 
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Supercharged

Joined: Thu May 12, 2005 11:50 pm
Posts: 6291
Location: So California
Car Model: 64 Plymouth Valiant
http://www.autoshop101.com/

Click on 'Technical Articles' on left side

Select '21 EFI #2 Air Induction System.pdf"


Check pages 6 and 11


You might be able to get parts from junk yard.

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64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 27, 2010 6:19 pm 
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Supercharged

Joined: Sun Jun 04, 2006 4:53 pm
Posts: 4295
Location: Gaithersburg MD
Car Model:
Thanks Ems. There is a ton there. It is now bookmarked. Maybe I will understand some of it one day. I cannot believe all the band aids that have been applied over the years to get things to work.

Sam

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