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Weber carb ??
https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=40080		 Page 1 of 4
Author:  DirtyDale [ Mon May 03, 2010 7:37 pm ]
Post subject:  Weber carb ??
looking to put a 2bbl on a stock 65 225/. What weber would be good for the street?
What intake would i need to go with OR could a use a S6 intake..maybe weld on another flange???

I run weber on some race bikes and like the car a bunch.

thanks Dale
Author:  Wesola78 [ Tue May 04, 2010 11:22 am ]
Post subject: 
Some guys use the Weber 32/36, which offers power and economy. Other guys use the Weber 38DGES, which sacrifices a little economy for more power. There are other Weber carbs, as you probably know, but these are the main ones used by "Slantheads". "Slantheads" is a badge of honor and pride, by the way. 8)
You will most likely have to use some sort of adapter, or use a modified intake.
I have a Weber 38DGES that I'm planning to use, I just have to get my carb adapter sorted out.
Have fun! Some other guys should chime in here.
Author:  69a100 [ Tue May 04, 2010 3:18 pm ]
Post subject: 
I run a 32/36 DGV w/manual choke. I like it alot, sure beats messin around with the problematic Holley 1 bbl. I think I may still need to tweek it but all in all it's a breeze to work with.
Author:  akbmotorsports [ Tue May 04, 2010 6:48 pm ]
Post subject: 
hello. i run a 32/36 electric choke on a offy 4 barrel intake on my kids stock 86 D100 ram truck. very smooth idle, no high idle in park then clunk when dropped into gear, starts great when in below freezing temps and when hot. great response and torque. he is getting 20+ mpg when he keeps his foot out of it. i had to slightly modify a 2 to 4 barrel adapter by slightly elongating the 4 mount holes to match the weber bolt pattern, took about 20 minutes. if it was my truck, i probably would have used the 38/38 but since i pay for most of his gas while in school we used the smaller 32/36. you will need to get a jet kit for calibration, the baseline setup on mine had way too small jets for the slant. super easy to change jets on the weber.

see some pics here - http://s837.photobucket.com/albums/zz29 ... torsports/

have a great day, andy.
Author:  tlrol [ Wed May 05, 2010 6:31 pm ]
Post subject:  THE Weber
I have run both the 32/36 progressive Weber and the 38/38 Synchronous Weber in my D-150. I suggest you go with the 38/38 Weber. A brief examination of what those carbs first went into would help.

Weber 32/36--2.0 liter Ford Cortina

Weber 38/38--3.0 liter Ford Capri

Both Weber's are fine carburetors, however, if driven carefully the 38/38 will be the best all around carb. You will likely get better mileage over the stock carb with the 38/38. The 32/36 will certainly get better mileage, but it really is a bit small for the Slant Six.

Either way there are two things you will want to do to insure success. Check for vacuum leaks over and over. Install, and use a Air/Fuel ratio meter.
Author:  DirtyDale [ Thu May 13, 2010 8:31 pm ]
Post subject: 
I have a super six set up but the carb is a bit rough. Its a Carter 2681. If i went with the 38/38 is the flange the same? what about all the linkages and such?

Or what would be a good (new) replacement car that will bolt right up?

thanks for the replies....
Author:  CARS [ Fri May 14, 2010 5:52 am ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
I have a super six set up but the carb is a bit rough. Its a Carter 2681. If i went with the 38/38 is the flange the same? what about all the linkages and such?

Or what would be a good (new) replacement car that will bolt right up?

thanks for the replies....
A new in the box Carter 2681 will bolt right up! NOS carbs come up for sale from time to time.

I doubt anything else would be a true bolt-on.
Author:  DirtyDale [ Fri May 14, 2010 10:20 am ]
Post subject: 
i dont mind doing some fabing up. What about the flange on the weber bolting up to a factory 2b? anyone done this?
what all involed?

thanks guys
Author:  Wesola78 [ Fri May 14, 2010 10:52 am ]
Post subject: 
Unfortunately, the Weber will not bolt up to a factory manifold. You will have to buy, or fabricate, some sort of adapter. I will be using a Weber 38DGES on an Offenhauser 4bbl intake with an adapter.
Or, a factory 1bbl intake can be modified for a 2bbl carb.
Author:  gmiller001 [ Fri May 14, 2010 7:28 pm ]
Post subject: 
I am in the process (waiting on gaskets from Australia!) of installing a Weber DGEV on a friend's '74 Duster. I have done this conversion before to a Ford 200 CI inline with great success. Hopefully some of this info will be helpful to you.

My shopping list:
* Weber WK551 or WK551A DGEV Kit for Jeep (comes with manifold adapters to bolt directly to a super six manifold) - Ebay
* Weber 701-DGV Jet Kit for Jeep
* Super Six Manifold - Ebay
* Kickdown Cable Kit - Bouchillon Performance
* Throttle Bracket for 4 bbl - Bouchillon Performance
* Remflex RF6008 Manifold Gasket - Amazon.com
* Graphite Intake to Exhaust Gasket - gprsmopars.com
* Airtex E8016S Electric Fuel Pump - Autozone
* Big Block Chevy Fuel Pump Blockoff - Autozone
* EGR Blockoff - Ebay
* Sunpro CP8210 Air/Fuel Meter - Amazon.com
* Bosch 11027 Oxygen Sensor - Amazon.com
* Oxygen Sensor Bung - Ebay
* Weber A1000 Air Cleaner Adapter (allows use of the factory 1-bbl air cleaner, provided you have the hood clearance!)
* Holley 12-804 Fuel Pressure Regulator - Summit
* Mr Gasket 1561 Fuel Pressure Gauge - Summit
* 90 Degree Elbow and Bushing to screw gauge into second outlet of regulator - O'Reilly

Using the adapter (Weber Part# 100.551) provided in the Jeep Kit, the DG series Weber will bolt directly to the Super Six manifold. While you can buy the carb and the adapter separately, I bought the kit because the carb in the kit comes jetted for an inline six already (potentially fewer jetting hassles). The Bouchillon Throttle Bracket comes as two parts that bolt together. I threw the part that bolted to the carb away, and made my own bracket out of a piece of 10ga steel (using the Weber Jeep linkage bracket and the Bouchillon carb bracket as templates). I will post pics of this bracket this weekend. Although unnecessary, I drilled a couple of holes in the Weber carb lever, and bolted the Bouchillon carb lever to it. This ensures that I get the correct throw for the kickdown (which Mr. Bouchillon stressed was very important). I will post pics of this, as well.

Aside from checking very carefully for vacuum leaks, I also recommend that you adjust your fuel pressure carefully. When I did this conversion on the Ford, I couldn't get it to run right at first. After trading the mechanical fuel pump for a good electric one (not the kind hanging in the "chrome" aisle at Autozone!) and putting a good regulator and gauge on it, the car purred. Fuel pressure should be about 2-2.5 PSI.

Use the Air/Fuel gauge to dial it in. The Air/Fuel system I use is very simple and rudimentary. It uses the cheapest 1-wire O2 sensor on the market, and the cheapest gauge on the market. It works well for me, but keep in mind that it will be slower to react that a wideband system.

Hope this helps!
Author:  wjajr [ Sat May 15, 2010 4:27 am ]
Post subject: 
gmiller001,

Interesting list of components there…

Using an O2 sensor has been on my list of "To-Do" things for some time, as I have one of those dreaded Holley 390 4V that I have not been able to dial in 100%, vacuum & tachometers, and seat of the pants be damned.

Question on the Sun Pro gage: Are you mounting this gage under hood or in cockpit? Also, couldn’t one tune using a VOM to read out-put of O2 sensor, realizing that the thrill of viewing ones combustion condition while under way would not be as easily achieved?

My guess on a bung location for a Clifford header equipped engine would be in the collector as far up stream as possible.
Author:  gmiller001 [ Sat May 15, 2010 7:08 am ]
Post subject: 
That list took me DAYS of research (primarily on this site) to compile. Nobody seems to have really put together a "how-to" for installing a Weber on this engine. I'm hoping that this will help save someone else some time and aggravation!

I grew up with fuel injection. While I have certainly rebuilt and tuned my fair share of carbs, I don't consider myself anywhere close to an expert. When it comes to tuning a carb anymore (with gas prices at $3.00/gallon), there's no way I would even attempt it without a cheater! :wink:

Yes, you could use a VOM to read it. That would certainly be useful when dialing in the idle circuit, but may not be as effective when driving. For $22 (with free shipping), I just bought the gauge from Amazon.

I am mounting it in the cockpit - that way, we will be able to keep an eye on things at cruising speeds. We are attempting to increase the mileage of this car (currently 13MPG with a 1-bbl in sad shape). Since this car is my friend's daily driver, we are most interested in what the Air/Fuel looks like at idle and cruising speeds - this will be where the car spends 99% of its time. Once we dial in the jetting for those two circuits, the rest can be dialed in on the butt-dyno.

Another benefit of a cockpit gauge is that we will be forever able to keep an eye on things. If something "falls out of tune", we will know it right away.

Yes, you will want the O2 in the collector - as far upstream as possible.
Author:  DirtyDale [ Sat May 15, 2010 6:08 pm ]
Post subject: 
gmiller...AWESOME info....I use a fast meter on my drag bikes. I dont leave home without it !!!!!!!
Author:  gmiller001 [ Sat May 15, 2010 7:26 pm ]
Post subject: 
Another tip...

When I did this before, I found that I Weber would bog as the secondary starts to open. In order to work around this, increase the size of both the secondary idle jet and the accelerator pump jet. Even then, I would still experience a bog until the manifold warmed up.

I wish that somebody would make a kit for the Weber DG series to convert it to a vacuum secondary. Until someone does, you might have to "keep your foot out of it" until the manifold comes up to temp!
Author:  gmiller001 [ Sun May 16, 2010 9:23 pm ]
Post subject: 
Here are the pics I promised...

Custom Throttle Bracket to bolt Bouchillon throttle bracket to a Weber DG series. I made this one out of 10ga steel:
Image

Bouchillon Throttle Lever:
Image

Weber Throttle Lever (notice the two new holes used to mount the Bouchillon Throttle Lever to it):
Image

How it all fits together. Note that the Bouchillon kickdown pin bolts the bottom of the throttle levers together and the throttle pin (not installed in pic) bolts the tops together. You could probably get away without using the Bouchillon Throttle Lever, but I think it "beefs up" the Weber lever considerably:
Image

Kickdown detail. Note that the line of adjustment screws in the throttle brackets lines up with the edge of the aluminum casting for the secondary barrel stop screw:
Image

More of the same:
Image

And more:
Image

Weber Jeep Adapter Plate (note that there is a phenolic spacer between the adapter and the manifold):
Image

Weber carb:
Image

Air Cleaner Adapter:
Image

Air Cleaner (yes, I know it needs some help!):
Image

Even with the spacers and such, the hood on this '74 Duster closes with the factory air cleaner. There is at least 1/2" to spare (I might have to use some Play-doh for a more accurate measurement at some point).

Hope these help!
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