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| torsion bar removal / 64 A Body https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=40268 |
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| Author: | apairof66s [ Mon May 17, 2010 9:21 am ] |
| Post subject: | torsion bar removal / 64 A Body |
I'm working with my son to replace the lower control arm bushings on his 64 Dart. I've followed the steps to release the pressure from the torsion bar. The book calls for a special removal tool, which I don't have. Any suggestions on moving the torsion bars so that I can replace the bushings? Thanks in advance for any help. Lee apairof66s@yahoo.com |
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| Author: | bbbbbb9 [ Mon May 17, 2010 9:39 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
I was removing the LCA anyway so I just took the clip out of the Torsion bar slot on the frame member and took my BFA and hit the LCA rearward once and they popped out. Now mind you I was working on an AZ car so the undercarriage looks like it's 2-3 years old. |
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| Author: | wjajr [ Mon May 17, 2010 9:41 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
The main concern is that no deep gouges, or scratches be made on the surface of the bar as these will weaken them, causing a possible failure down the road. That being said, if you could fashion some kind of a tight clamp made of wood or something that will not scratch steel, and give it a whack with a hammer they should come free. I have cushioned the jaws of a large pair of vice grips with heavy plastic strapping used to suspend PVC drainage pipe. Backing off the strut nuts in addition to the bars will allow the lower control arm to self align so that the axis of the bar, LCA, and the hole in the frame in the cross member at the rear end of the bar will allow easier movement. There are spring clips on the rearward side of the cross member that prevent the bar from migrating the back of the car that must be removed before said bar will willingly slide out. |
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| Author: | KBB_of_TMC [ Mon May 17, 2010 10:01 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
In my old Michigan (rust belt) Coronet, the torsion bars were very, very hard to remove - finally took off the lower control arm to get it out, and that was hard after the torsion bar adjuster snapped off and had to be cut apart. Sometimes cutting things apart is the only way. |
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| Author: | slantfin [ Mon May 17, 2010 11:43 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
I made a clamp out of bar stock and a piece of angle iron, and then used a small bottle jack against the lower control arm to push it out. Don't forget to remove the little spring clip. |
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| Author: | apairof66s [ Mon May 17, 2010 2:08 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Thankfully the Dart is a Arizona car. It's only been in NC for a year and a half. I did remove the back clip, and sprayed both ends of the bar with wd-40. If loosening the strut rods will help i'll do that next. I've been told not to try to tap it loose (from the threaded end) not even with a rubber mallet. I might try fab'ing a clamp out of wood next................ |
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| Author: | hantayo13 [ Mon May 17, 2010 7:14 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
wd40 not a good idea ....it swells rubber...it cleans metal and lets it rust even better together..... |
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| Author: | apairof66s [ Tue May 18, 2010 5:44 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Got the pass. side t bar out. I made a clamp out of 2 2x4s. It worked great. Thanks for all the replies. |
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| Author: | apairof66s [ Mon May 31, 2010 7:43 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
"wd40 not a good idea ....it swells rubber...it cleans metal and lets it rust even better together....." I only sprayed where the torsion bars slide into the cross member & lower control arms. I stay away from using wd40 directly on rubber. Also, I realized that the lower control arm bushings should be pressed out and the new ones pressed in. I'm glad that's done! |
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| Author: | Sam Powell [ Fri Jun 11, 2010 4:38 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
I know this is old, and not needed now, but for future reference: 1.Take out the c clips. 2.Loosen the torsion adjusters all the way. 3. loosen the front nut half way, 4. Place a 2x4 in front of the front nut, and whack it rear wards with a 3 lb sledge. It should pop loose. Sam |
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