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| Freeze plugs and how to replace... https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=40360 |
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| Author: | SwingerGrrl73 [ Mon May 24, 2010 10:16 am ] |
| Post subject: | Freeze plugs and how to replace... |
Okay so my cousin is set on getting herself a Mopar. We went and looked at Vera's twin yesterday. 1965 Dart 270 225 and the lovely 1920 Holley. The biggest issue with this car is the missing freeze plug on top of the engine block. Now, my question is this: can this be replaced without the engine being pulled?? I've searched the forum and haven't found a definitive answer on this.... Thanks everyone! 
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| Author: | Reed [ Mon May 24, 2010 10:26 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
The freeze plugs on the driver's side of the block, buried under the manifolds. Is this what you mean by the plug being on the "top" of the block? If so, you just need access to pull the old plug out, with a pair of pliers, clean the edges of the hole, and pound a new plug in. If you can do that without pulling the manifolds, then you are fine. |
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| Author: | Doc [ Mon May 24, 2010 10:32 am ] |
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On the early engine blocks, the center (of 3) freeze plugs is hard to access without removing the manifolds. I have been able to install a "temporary" bolt-in freeze plug into that location, with-out pulling the manifold set, but it is not a real "fun" job. DD 
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| Author: | rustyfords [ Mon May 24, 2010 10:32 am ] |
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The biggest issue with replacing freeze plugs is usually having good access to the location. The mating surfaces must be very clean and smooth and you've got to have some room to swing something (preferably something like a rubber dead blow mallet) in such a manner that you can evenly drive in the plug. |
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| Author: | SwingerGrrl73 [ Mon May 24, 2010 10:44 am ] |
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Reed-Yes, exactly the spot. I'm not sure about the clearance or how easily I will be able to access the spot....apparently I won't have to pull the old one as it is missing. What kind of problem might that pose? The motor in this car sounds AMAZING. I should have taken video. She doesn't even need a valve lash... |
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| Author: | Reed [ Mon May 24, 2010 11:00 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Well, again, WHY is it missing? Did the engine get cold enough for the coolant to freeze and pop out the plug? If not, why was the plug able to pop out? Corrosion in the water jacket? Cracked head making too much pressure in the block (although this would likely cause the radiator cap to open before the freeze plug came out)? Doc's solution of the expanding freeze plug is probably your best bet for a quick and dirty repair. I would try and find out why that freeze plug is no longer in the block before buying the car. |
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| Author: | SwingerGrrl73 [ Mon May 24, 2010 11:06 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Thank you Reed. I will definitely make sure and ask.
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| Author: | Doc [ Mon May 24, 2010 11:22 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
I can think of a few reasons on why the plug is missing: - The plug was leaking, was removed for repair and the owner / mechanic could not get the replecement plug reinstalled. - The plug was incorrectly installed and came-out under cooling system pressure. - The block water froze and pushed-out the plug. -There is a crack in the block intersecting the plug's hole, this makes it near impossable to hold a pressed-in metal expansion plug. DD |
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| Author: | SwingerGrrl73 [ Mon May 24, 2010 11:25 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
No visible cracks. At all. Anywhere. This motor is in nice shape. I'm uploading pics now to photobucket...will post the few I took. I'm kinda jealous! She's so purty! |
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| Author: | SwingerGrrl73 [ Mon May 24, 2010 11:58 am ] |
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Okay so here's the deal: dude started the car after she had sat all winter. He noticed fluid leaking (saw steam from under the hood, shut car off and checked under hood) and noticed a pin hole in the freeze plug seal(?)the fluid in the block HAD frozen. SO. Again I ask What kind of problems could this lead to? is this car going to be worth it? Does it mean there may be internal issues due to the frozen block? No cracks are visible....NAPA carries a universal plug now. Plug is NOT missing, just faulty? Screwed up from the freeze? |
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| Author: | Wizard [ Mon May 24, 2010 2:37 pm ] |
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Rusted out. So you're safe, just get care of all the core plugs. Cheers, Wizard |
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| Author: | Charrlie_S [ Tue May 25, 2010 5:14 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
The other thing I would be cautious about. You said the engine sounds "awsome". How long has the engine been run with no coolant in the block/head? |
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| Author: | SwingerGrrl73 [ Tue May 25, 2010 9:59 pm ] |
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Actually, dude lost his liscence and hasn't been driving the car for quite some time. Selling her for court costs.... |
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| Author: | THOR [ Tue May 25, 2010 10:17 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Well, fill it with your antifreeze/water mix, pour some gas in her, and let it run for awhile, get up to operating temp. Once you get there, shut it off, and check on it as it cools. Make sure there are no leaks, and sniff around a bit, see if you smell any coolant. Once it has cooled off, run her back up to operating temp again. Do it a few times if possible. Multiple heat cycles may show a crack that you wouldn't have seen before. Also, keep a keen eye on the dipstick, make sure that there is nothing but oil on it. Same with radiator, coolant only. Example: I have an engine block sitting in the shop that is from a '65 as well. You wouldn't know by looking at it, but there is a 3" long crack running the length of the block on the driver side, about 3" up from the dipstick tube. Would only leak after being warmed up, and then shut off. I still need to get that fixed.... Where are those pics! I wanna see!  ~THOR~ |
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| Author: | SwingerGrrl73 [ Wed May 26, 2010 9:57 am ] |
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Ahh the dipstick.....I did check it, it needs to be replaced, but there was only oil...and clean oil, I might add. Did not pop the radiator cap. The damn radiator is nice! I'm thinking she is going to go ahead on this....but I will definitely do the afore mentioned things first. Let's see if I can do this right pics wise.....This is Stella. 
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