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 Post subject: it runs finaly...
PostPosted: Sat Jun 05, 2010 6:36 pm 
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EFI Slant 6
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Joined: Fri Apr 25, 2008 8:04 am
Posts: 324
Location: hillsborough NC
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well after a year and a half of rebuild on my old slant i cranked it up tonight and i think i got some timing issues it was very hard to start so i played with the timing and got it running but the only way it will run is when i take out the bolt in the distributor and turn it further (counter clock wise) than the slot allows and it will crank and run fine whats wrong with my timing

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1973 plymouth duster 225 slant six .30 over, erson 270 cam, 9.5 to 1 compression, big valves, headers, and a holley 4 bbl
http://cardomain.com/ride/3135091

hey that thing got a hemi? naw its just a slant six


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jun 05, 2010 9:33 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 9:20 pm
Posts: 13112
Location: Fircrest, WA
Car Model: 76 D100
If it is running, nothing is wrong with your timing. :shrug:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jun 05, 2010 10:37 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Thu Nov 11, 2004 4:33 pm
Posts: 1004
Location: Sacramento, CA
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Flip your distributor over and loosen the bolt on the bottom. Then give it a turn so the distributor has more adjustment in it. That way when you put it back in, it'll be in time with the bolt in this time.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jun 06, 2010 6:32 am 
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EFI Slant 6
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Joined: Fri Apr 25, 2008 8:04 am
Posts: 324
Location: hillsborough NC
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sorry reed i forgot to mention i had the bolt out of the distributer and had dad holding it in place and he turned it as far as he could till it cranked and then it was past the bolt hole for the distributor.

thanks esp47 ill give that a shot tomarrow.

i cant wait for the first burnout test!
thanks guys

_________________
1973 plymouth duster 225 slant six .30 over, erson 270 cam, 9.5 to 1 compression, big valves, headers, and a holley 4 bbl
http://cardomain.com/ride/3135091

hey that thing got a hemi? naw its just a slant six


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jun 06, 2010 7:51 am 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 9:20 pm
Posts: 13112
Location: Fircrest, WA
Car Model: 76 D100
Oh! Now I get it. Yes, try loosening the bolt on the bottom of the distributor. Or try finding a later style hold down assembly that allows 360 degrees of movement. Or try moving the rotor one tooth on the cam gear. Or try moving the spark plugs one tower on the distributor cap. There are many ways to get where you want to go.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jun 06, 2010 9:22 am 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sat Feb 16, 2008 1:25 pm
Posts: 5611
Location: Downeast Maine
Car Model:
theslantingsix,

Reed:
[quote]Or try moving the rotor one tooth on the cam gear. Or try moving the spark plugs one tower on the distributor cap. There are many ways to get where you want to go.[/quote]

“Orâ€￾, my favorite; move # 1 cylinder to the fire wall end, and # 6 to the front of the line. Be fore warned, this mod will require several tubes of JB Weld, and a day for it to cure before firing her up… LAL

[quote]Or try finding a later style hold down assembly that allows 360 degrees of movement[/quote]

This is correct in theory; however I suspect that you have a vacuum advance can sticking out of the side of your distributor; that device will not allow a full rotation when it hits the block or oil filter…

I think if you move the gear one tooth, you will be fine. Just remember which way, clock or ani-clock ways, that you moved it. And if you moved it the wrong way, as in no start, you will have to move two gear teeth in the other direction to get to the new position.

Yeah, I know this all makes perfect sense here, laid out in sixty cycle electrons smashing onto your screen, and your thinking; this guy thinks I'm a dope, no, but Murphy will be under the hood with his sleeves rolled up lending a helping hand. Lord knows he always helps me with this kind of dyslexic-hell stuff involving; left or right handed, and number of turns in or out, etc adjustments…

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