Hi all,

I'm looking into getting an aluminium radiator to replace the OEM one (which has leaks that despite me stripping the rad out and resoldering, crop up again after a few months).

I was just wondering what the best way to prevent the radiator corroding would be?

Should the radiator be rubber-mounted to preven galvanic action between it and the steelwork? Should it be actively grounded to prevent electrolysis taking place? Do either of these exacerbate the problem?

Also, what's the best coolant to use with the new system? I've read up and G-05 would prob be my choice but it's a pain in the ass to get over here.

Once again, all thoughts are greatly appreciated. I ask now because I think putting the cooling system back together, disolving the radiator and losing the money and effort that went into it would be highly annoying.

All the best,
60 Ply

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1960 Plymouth Belvedere 4 door sedan
Stock 60 225
Push button 3 speed Torqueflite
Right Hooker

This an old school response, but once GM realized what was going on with their early aluminum engines,which caused their copper radiators to diappear, they suggested simply changing the antifeeze every year. That seemed to work. I think the primary culprit was the reaction between the copper in the radiator and the aluminum in the engine.

I have an aluminum radiator, and did not actually give it much thought. I have Evans coolant in mine, which may or may not be better. Any other ideas out there?

You might find out what coolant they use in modern Aluminum engined cars. I would think it would work. But then again, they likely have aluminum radiators too.

Sam

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there is an additive you can add when you change any parts in cooling system .... it stops the reaction between different metals .... forget what it is called...my little brother uses it in his shop

Thanks for the replies guys,

I'm sure there's no better way of preventing this sort of problem than regular fluid replacements. I've got on the mail to my local Daimler-Chrysler dealer about seeing if they use G-05 fluids. They don't like me much because I haven't asked to buy a new 300 or get a PT cruiser serviced, I'm always asking them about parts that for cars that were never sold in their lifetimes .

As far as mounting goes, anyone know if it is better to isolate the radiator completely, or ground it well to the frame? I figure it doesn't do any harm to get it right first time.

_________________
1960 Plymouth Belvedere 4 door sedan
Stock 60 225
Push button 3 speed Torqueflite
Right Hooker

Hello,
After a bit of Googling,I have these 2 links you might find interesting.
The first one wo'nt show its pix for me (and probably you),but is worth the read.
Hope they are of some use to you.

regards,Rod

http://www.imcool.com/articles/antifree ... sgobad.htm

http://www.qldstreetscene.com/forums/to ... radiators/

Interesting. Seems old school might still be appropriate. I have come to believe that using the manufacture's fluids is not a bad idea, even if more expensive. In our case, that has become more or less irrelevant, so the recommendation of heavy duty truck coolant seems like a good alternative.

My Aluminum radiator is a racers supply job, and has aluminum end tanks. I would personally stay away from plastic end tanks. It seems that is the joint that mot typically fails.

Sam

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I was told you get the electrolysis from the steel and aluminium and was told to use the orange GM antifreeze. Ive used it in every one of my rigs with excellent results. I heard about a unit that sits inside the radiator under the cap to nutralize the electrolysis too.

I just use good quality green antifreeze and deionized water, and I don't let it get too old...

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

For all those who've taken an interest in this thread, here's a good article for isolating any problems which may lead to an electrolysis problem.

http://www.caravanandmotorhomebooks.com ... worms.html

Looks like a useful procedure even just to keep peace of mind.

Once again, thanks to all who've helped with this. Ordered an aly rad yesterday, should be here within a few weeks. I'll keep you all posted!

_________________
1960 Plymouth Belvedere 4 door sedan
Stock 60 225
Push button 3 speed Torqueflite
Right Hooker