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PostPosted: Thu May 20, 2010 10:29 pm 
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I did a lot of research on A-body hinges last year; my '64 Dart (still) needs new ones 'cause I haven't yet had time to install the ones I had rebuilt. Which means I've got them here in front of me to verify what I'm posting.

This gets a little involved: '63-'65 A-body front door hinges are all identical, position by position (lower left and lower right are different, upper left and right are same). 1966 lower hinges are different from '63-'65 (uppers are same), but the '66 lowers are fit/function interchangeable with the '63-'65 lowers. Replacement U-springs are not available for '63-'65 hinges, which is bad because that's one of the things that wears out, but -- here's where things get interesting -- '67 lower hinges are the same as '66 lower hinges. 2583 578 (RH) and 2583 579 (LH). And '68's are the same as '67s. And '69s are same as '68s, and '70, and '71, right on up. And new U-springs are available for the '66-up hinge. Which means you can grab a pair of readily-available '67-up hinges and send 'em in for rebuild, then bolt 'em onto your earlier car. There are plenty of places that do the work, but they're not all the same. I was fairly happy with the work done by this guy who also makes special tools for Mopars, who doesn't appear to list hinge rebuild right now. Instead of just putting new bushings in, he welds in a custom-machined sleeve in for full-length load-bearing support of the hinge pin…and it's got a Zerk fitting so you can grease it. Nifty, but he doesn't address the detent wear that makes old car doors a pain in the nuts (won't stay open; detents too weak). Still, you can send him an e-mail at jrivinius@sc.rr.com and ask.

Fellow A-body enthusiast Ross Hud used to do a premium rebuild job that did address the detent wear, though he doesn't describe how he did it in his hinge rebuild advice post or his hinge rebuild service post, and he is no longer offering this service, as he opened a brewery.

Psst: '72-'93 Dodge D/W-series pickup truck lower hinges are the same as '66-'76 A-body lower hinges, too, and those are a lot easier to buy new off the shelf.

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Last edited by SlantSixDan on Sun Dec 07, 2025 1:54 pm, edited 5 times in total.

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PostPosted: Fri May 21, 2010 4:06 am 
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SlantSixDan:
[quote]'63-'65 A-body front door hinges are all identical, position by position (lower left and lower right are different, upper left and right are same). 1966 lower hinges are different from '63-'65 (uppers are same), but the '66 lowers are fit/function interchangeable with the '63-'65 lowers. Replacement U-springs are not available for '63-'65 hinges, which is bad because that's one of the things that wears out, but -- here's where things get interesting -- '67 lower hinges are the same as '66 lower hinges. 2583 578 (RH) and 2583 579 (LH). And '68's are the same as '67s. And '69s are same as '68s, and '70, and '71, right on up. And new U-springs are available for the '66-up hinge. Which means you can grab a pair of readily-available '67-up hinges and send 'em in for rebuild, then bolt 'em onto your '65.[/quote]


Lets see if I got this right:
If the bottom left = upper right, and upper left rear = upper right rear on even numbered model year’s except on leap year in southern hemisphere when the reverse is true, and all is moot post bicentennial production than; this hinge is for you…

Got it!

Good tip on a hinge re-builder, Thanks

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PostPosted: Fri May 21, 2010 9:48 am 
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Quote:
Lets see if I got this right:
If the bottom left = upper right, and upper left rear = upper right rear on even numbered model year’s except on leap year in southern hemisphere when the reverse is true, and all is moot post bicentennial production than; this hinge is for you…
Except on odd Tuesdays of even-numbered months under a full moon. Mileage is lower in California and an automatic transmission is required. Terms and conditions apply.

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PostPosted: Fri May 21, 2010 10:07 am 
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:lol:

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PostPosted: Fri May 21, 2010 10:16 am 
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SlantsixDan:
Quote:
Except on odd Tuesdays of even-numbered months under a full moon. Mileage is lower in California and an automatic transmission is required. Terms and conditions apply.
Yeah, but, dose one still get cash-back from the Dodge Boys for moving one off the lot?

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PostPosted: Fri May 21, 2010 11:49 am 
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Quote:
Quote:
Lets see if I got this right:
If the bottom left = upper right, and upper left rear = upper right rear on even numbered model year’s except on leap year in southern hemisphere when the reverse is true, and all is moot post bicentennial production than; this hinge is for you…
Except on odd Tuesdays of even-numbered months under a full moon. Mileage is lower in California and an automatic transmission is required. Terms and conditions apply.
and you forgot to mention that, in the Southern hemisphere,they are used
pǝʇɹǝʌuı

regards,Rod :D


Last edited by walpolla on Fri May 21, 2010 11:18 pm, edited 3 times in total.

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PostPosted: Fri May 21, 2010 12:23 pm 
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Walpolla:
Quote:
and you forgot to mention that, in the Southern hemisphere,they are used inverted.
Could be, but your bath tub’s drain swirls bass ackwards. This all so confusing…

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07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

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PostPosted: Fri May 21, 2010 12:26 pm 
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Could be, but your bath tub’s drain swirls bass ackwards. This all so confusing…
Do'nt know - only DIRTY people use baths !

regards,Rod :?


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 15, 2010 7:12 am 
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I just picked up a set of 64 hinges in good condition.

Should I leave them alone and install them, or drill them out and install bushings and new pins?

It seems to me that if the holes are not ovaled, drilling them out to fit bushings ought to be easier.
It seems like it would be an upgrade to have replaceable bushings, but I hesitate to do major surgery on early A-body parts that don't need it.

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 15, 2010 9:03 am 
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I have re-bushed A body hinges, and not been happy with the results. The bushings tend to work loose, result: a real big flopping mess until it is repositioned. If your hinges are not egged out, and don’t allow vertical movement, don’t mess with them.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 17, 2010 12:33 am 
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Thanks, wjajr.

What's the best lubricant?
I read some advocating engine oil, other white lithium grease spray.

Having the hinges separate, I could soak it in a bowl of 30 weight, or whatever, before installing them.
I have completed removing loose rust and painting and I assume the bearing surfaces are dry, and I want to lube them the bast I can before installing.

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63 Signet / 10 inch front drums / weber 2bbl / HEI / 2.76 rear end


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 17, 2010 4:30 am 
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I use white lithium, my Chrysler dealer has been using it also for the last forty years on our cars. Dad is a dealer zombie, goes back there for everything.

Oil won’t stay put, and won’t resist water for long, but white grease will stay, and water just bounces off the stuff. It’s a bit messy, so just clean up the over spray with a solvent soaked rag if you are fussy.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

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