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ball joints
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Author:  rustycowl [ Wed Aug 21, 2002 9:51 am ]
Post subject:  ball joints

Awhile back we were advising people on frt suspension rebuilds. It ocurred to me while doing my '79 300's frt end, we had neglected to mention some important things to look at regarding ball joint studs and the female tapers they fit with.
The best time to begin this is when you are disassembling the control arms , steering knuckles, etc. Look closely at the tapers, internal and external. There are the obvious signs of poor fit: gouged tapers, rusty patches indicating non-contact, cotter pins up above the castellated nuts, etc. To help to visually see the fit you can use machinist's 'Prussian Blue'( I know Permatex makes it). Smear a thin coat on the male taper and then insert the male end into the female receiving taper hole. Draw it up a little with the nut and then tear it back apart. The bluing will transfer by contact to the female taper and you'll be able to more easily see the fit or lack thereof. If it is a severe misfit, the part should be replaced. But I know there are only so many of these parts out there anymore, so here's what you can do: the internal taper can be re reamed with an appropriately tapered reamer(a little hard to find); or you can use a die grinder and a 'bee-hive' sanding scroll to LIGHTLY grind down the 'high' spots of the female taper(cut & try) until you get a good fit all around and full length. It's not going to be perfect, try for 70-80% contact. Be advised that the more you grind out of the female taper hole, the further the taper stud drops into the hole. If it drops in enough, all the thread will be exposed, which can mean the nut will bottom out on the thread without fully drawing in and locking the tapers together. That is not adviseable. You can get around that by adding some good quality(GR8) stud washers beneath the nut to 'restore' thread exposure, for proper torque and locating the cotter pin within the castellations of the lock nut.
You have to use some judgement here, don't stack up a 3/8" of washers, and if the taper is too far gone let it go, and replace the part. If one of these ball joints lets go, it could be catastrophic. I've never personally witnessed a Mopar break a ball joint, but I would guess it would be worse than a tire blowout.

lanctof@wsdot.wa.gov

Author:  bud L. [ Wed Aug 21, 2002 10:00 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: ball joints

Quote:
: Awhile back we were advising people on frt
: suspension rebuilds. It ocurred to me while
: doing my '79 300's frt end, we had neglected
: to mention some important things to look at
: regarding ball joint studs and the female
: tapers they fit with.
: The best time to begin this is when you are
: disassembling the control arms , steering
: knuckles, etc. Look closely at the tapers,
: internal and external. There are the obvious
: signs of poor fit: gouged tapers, rusty
: patches indicating non-contact, cotter pins
: up above the castellated nuts, etc. To help
: to visually see the fit you can use
: machinist's 'Prussian Blue'( I know Permatex
: makes it). Smear a thin coat on the male
: taper and then insert the male end into the
: female receiving taper hole. Draw it up a
: little with the nut and then tear it back
: apart. The bluing will transfer by contact
: to the female taper and you'll be able to
: more easily see the fit or lack thereof. If
: it is a severe misfit, the part should be
: replaced. But I know there are only so many
: of these parts out there anymore, so here's
: what you can do: the internal taper can be
: re reamed with an appropriately tapered
: reamer(a little hard to find); or you can
: use a die grinder and a 'bee-hive' sanding
: scroll to LIGHTLY grind down the 'high'
: spots of the female taper(cut & try)
: until you get a good fit all around and full
: length. It's not going to be perfect, try
: for 70-80% contact. Be advised that the more
: you grind out of the female taper hole, the
: further the taper stud drops into the hole.
: If it drops in enough, all the thread will
: be exposed, which can mean the nut will
: bottom out on the thread without fully
: drawing in and locking the tapers together.
: That is not adviseable. You can get around
: that by adding some good quality(GR8) stud
: washers beneath the nut to 'restore' thread
: exposure, for proper torque and locating the
: cotter pin within the castellations of the
: lock nut.
: You have to use some judgement here, don't
: stack up a 3/8" of washers, and if the
: taper is too far gone let it go, and replace
: the part. If one of these ball joints lets
: go, it could be catastrophic. I've never
: personally witnessed a Mopar break a ball
: joint, but I would guess it would be worse
: than a tire blowout.


Another tip is to rotate the ball stud to orient the cotter pin hole (so that it's easier to remove the cotter pin, should there come a time to take it apart), prior to drawing the tapers together with the locknut.

fglmopar@aol.com

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