When installing the 10" spindles, does it matter which direction the spindles are mounted? I notice there is a slight "tilt" to them. As I want to put the calipers to the rear (which I'm told is better), I just want to make sure I'm not messing up any other geometry. I was thinking calipers to the rear in order to ensure the soft brake lines have enough travel not to bind or break- it looks like a good idea, and makes sense to me, but does anyone have a reason it shouldn't be done? Any other thoughts? Thanks, all!

The factory engineers typically designed the brake hoses to cross over the suspension in order to provide plenty of room for all of the possible movement. So that means if the hard line is rear mounted then the calipers were front mounted. Most Mopars are done this way but there are a few cases where the calipers were rear hung and then the hard line on the frame was front mounted.

There are a few cases where both the hard line and the caliper are rear mounted but they are the exception.

If you're going to try something different than what the factory engineers did you should proceed carefully. It isn't easy to do a better job than they did. Most of the "backyard engineered" brake swaps that I've seen over the years were poorly executed.

I guess I'm asking the wrong question. Does anybody have a picture of the 74 front disc spindles and splash shield installed? I'm not trying to do better than the engineers, I just don't know which spindle belongs on which side. In my 69 Valiant, the hard lines end behind the control arms- does this mean that even doing a swap I should put the calipers forward, and run the soft lines over/around the suspension? Thanks for your patience.

Yes, it works best when the hose goes across the suspension. Rear mounted hard line works best with front mounted calipers.

When you're mixing and matching parts you need to pay attention. There are a number of different caliper castings. Some work and some don't for brake swaps. You want the hose fitting to be pointing the correct direction and the bleeder to be on the top.

Thanks, Andy.

Next help request. Can anyone tell me torque specs for the banjo bolts? The bolt that connects the brake line to the caliper, I mean. Has a small hole in it.

What about the torque on the lower ball joints? I found the spec-120ft lbs- for the UPPER ball joints on here, but not the lower.

Finally, can someone tell me about the positives and negatives of using the factory Duster proportioning valve vs. using a Mopar Performance adjustable prop. valve? I was thinking using the factory valve would be better, but it is 40 years old...

Thanks for your time,

Jon