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| Slant Six Greenhorn https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=40811 |
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| Author: | VILLE [ Sun Jun 27, 2010 1:15 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Slant Six Greenhorn |
Greetings Slant Sixers first time poster here, Well I just picked up an 84 Ram (225,but it says 228 on the valve cover?,727) with 110,000 and have already fallen in love with this motor. So far its been cheap and easy to fix and runs great (fingers crossed). Only factor im not diggn is the lean burn setup. I hear it takes a crap without warning but for now she runs fine. So i have a few quesions, 1. When cold she wont crank up, i have to manually set the choke and wham fires right up. Can anyone point me in the right direction on that one. 2. What is the normal operating temp for this year? 3. Can i remove the egr and its controls without affecting the brain and would this screw with the carb. I dont have the green for the new ignition and carb yet just wanna clear some vacuum lines off the top and keep the exhuast out of the intake This site is awesome, ive learned quite a bit in less than a week just from here. oh, how do you upload pics out |
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| Author: | wjajr [ Sun Jun 27, 2010 5:17 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Welcome aboard VILLE, you should get a copy of the Factory Service Manual as soon as you can. It is a valuable tool to have. Perhaps I can help you with the choke question. Back in the early seventies I had a Dart that the choke would always fail to close on a cold start when there was a lot of humidity in the air. On clear dry days it would snap shut every time. I know what you are going through, as this condition was most maddening, and never failed to hang up when nicely dressed, or headed for a hot date… Result was dirty hands. After several attempts to remedy the problem over several weeks, because it only acted up on wet days, and on the first cold start of the day, was to remove the rods that operate the coke which are attach to the bimetal coil and choke plate, and using a fine file and emery cloth, smooth out the worn-in notches created from use. Those worn spots would cause the linkage to bind up, and prevent the assembly from freely articulating when closing the choke. That fix worked well for the next 50,000 miles or so, until I had to junk the car due to New England’s road salt working its magic on frame members & body parts… Good luck |
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| Author: | Slanted Opinion [ Mon Jun 28, 2010 4:19 am ] |
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Welcome to the board! Photos aren't uploaded to this board. You post them on a website (like photobucket) and then link them here so they will appear. Just above where you are typing you will see a little box labeled "Img". Click it, remove the "http://image_url" and paste in the link for your image. - Mac |
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| Author: | Sam Powell [ Mon Jun 28, 2010 6:41 am ] |
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That EGR is a good thing. It lowers combustion temps to control detonation. Leave it on. Get it working right. Sam |
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| Author: | carlherrnstein [ Mon Jun 28, 2010 1:15 pm ] |
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welcome My 85 runs just below 200* (the needle stays at the 3rd bar it the gauge) The thermostat is a 195* I have a electric cooling fan but, it ran the same temp when it was stock. As for the EGR I would leave it in there if it still works if not then... I would remove it. So long as your not breaking the law. The EGR parts are expensive to replace. hope this helps good luck |
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| Author: | VILLE [ Tue Jun 29, 2010 9:10 am ] |
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mine runs about 215, is this too hot. I read that the lean burn runs a little warm but this seems high to me |
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| Author: | carlherrnstein [ Fri Jul 02, 2010 2:31 pm ] |
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215 doesn't sound too hot.. If it were mine I wouldn't worry too much about it. Water by its self boils at 212 with atmospheric pressure but, you should have +- 15psi in the cooling system so the boiling point is raised and with anti-freeze the boiling point is more. good luck |
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| Author: | VILLE [ Thu Jul 08, 2010 9:43 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Well ,put a mechanical temp gauge on it and she runs right under 200, i guess the electronic gauge (cheapie) i had on there was off! |
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| Author: | GTS225 [ Thu Jul 08, 2010 5:16 pm ] |
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Quote: Well ,put a mechanical temp gauge on it and she runs right under 200, i guess the electronic gauge (cheapie) i had on there was off!
********************************************************That means you've learned lesson one well. Factory guages, (usually no matter what mfgr.), are typically inaccurate. Decent aftermarket guages will normally give you better info. Roger |
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| Author: | madmax/6 [ Thu Jul 08, 2010 5:43 pm ] |
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Anti-freeze does not raise the boiling point,or make it cool better. |
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| Author: | carlherrnstein [ Fri Jul 09, 2010 1:20 pm ] |
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Read the third paragraph here |
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| Author: | madmax/6 [ Fri Jul 09, 2010 3:21 pm ] |
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We need Myth busters for this one. |
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| Author: | wjajr [ Fri Jul 09, 2010 4:59 pm ] |
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One myth busted, one proved true here & here. Excerpt from engineering tool box: Quote: Specific Heat Capacity of Ethylene Glycol based Water Solutions
So in a nut shell; anti freeze raises boiling point, and lowers coolant’s ability to transfer heat.
Specific Heat Capacities - cp - of ethylene glycol based water solutions at various temperatures are indicated below Specific Heat Capacity - cp - (Btu/lb.oF) Temperature Ethylene Glycol Solution (% by volume) (oF) (oC) 25 30 40 50 60 65 100 -40 -40 1) 1) 1) 1) 0.68 0.703 1) 0 -17.8 1) 1) 0.83 0.78 0.723 0.7 0.54 40 4.4 0.913 0.89 0.845 0.795 0.748 0.721 0.562 80 26.7 0.921 0.902 0.86 0.815 0.768 0.743 0.59 120 48.9 0.933 0.915 0.875 0.832 0.788 0.765 0.612 160 71.1 0.94 0.925 0.89 0.85 0.81 0.786 0.64 200 93.3 0.953 0.936 0.905 0.865 0.83 0.807 0.66 240 115.6 2) 2) 2) 2) 2) 0.828 0.689 280 137.8 2) 2) 2) 2) 2) 2) 0.71 1. below freezing point 2. above boiling point • 1 Btu/(lbmoF) = 4,186.8 J/(kg K) = 1 kcal/(kgoC) Note! The specific heat capacity of ethylene glycol based water solutions are less than the specific heat capacity of clean water. For a heat transfer system with ethylene glycol the circulated volume must be increased compared to a system with clean water. In a 50% solution with operational temperatures above 36 oF the specific heat capacity is decreased with approximately 20%. The reduced heat capacity must be compensated by circulating more fluid. Automobile antifreeze solutions should not be used in HVAC systems because they contain silicates that may cause fouling. Silicates in automobile antifreeze are used to protect aluminum engine parts. Note! Distilled or deionized water should be used for ethylene glycol solutions. City water may be treated with chlorine which is corrosive. Systems for automatic makeup water should not be used since a leakage would contaminate the environment and dilute the antifreeze protection of the system. |
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| Author: | madmax/6 [ Fri Jul 09, 2010 8:32 pm ] |
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So am I kinda right?Very interesting,Thank You.Guzzi Mark |
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| Author: | wjajr [ Sat Jul 10, 2010 5:54 am ] |
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Quote: So am I kinda right?Very interesting,Thank You.Guzzi Mark
Yup. Glass is half full. |
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