Hello everyone, I need some help. First off the slant 6 we have is for an early 70s hesston swather. Now to the problem, this started last year but the machine will fire right up and run smoothe and perfect for 10-15 minutes once it get warms up it cuts out and dies. It will usually fire right back up and shut right back down.
Now, we put a 12 volt coil on it and it has no BR now is this correct? We have also put new- distributor (complete), alternator,fuel pump, rebuilt carb, fuel filter, coil, all spark plug wires and plugs, battery.
Things we have tried- different coil, checked for spark, when it starts skipping before it shuts off spark skips w engine is this correct? We have tried a few other things but I cant think this morning very well. Thank you in advance for any help or suggestions.

Resistor coil or non-resistor coil?

Does it have Mopar electronic ignition or a points ignition system?
DD

i've had this problem in my van, but i found that my gas line was too close to heat and it was causing vacuum lock. but the same exact problem i was having

jimbo

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dodge b150 4x4 225 supersix,8 inch lift26605_1315915292058_1055981099_30764636_7102626_n

hello, it had the br coil and we changed it to a 12 volt without the br, we were told thats what to do to do away with br,

it is points

we thought maybe it was that too, but we used a can of gas and fed into the fuel line away from the block and still same problems

??
thanks guys

Have you tried a "hot wire" from the battery, directly to the coil "+" terminal?

Doing this will by-pass all wires, switches and connections in the current ignition system.
If it runs fine when hot wired, then it is something in the circuit that feeds power into the coil.
DD

Doc, we tried hot wire from the alternator to the coil with same issue, would the battery be any different? thanks

You might try a different brand of condenser. I have had issues with napa's condensers for the old flathead 230s

good luck

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85 d-100 HEI 2BBl
06 Toyota Corrola

No difference, as long as the connections in the charging system are all good.
Does a multimeter (volt meter) show any voltage drop at the + lead of the coil when the system starts to miss / die?
DD

I had a similar problem. Read this thread.

http://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=40585

I talk about it in this one as well

http://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=40436

I recently pulled a 1972 industrial points ignition slant six out of a John Deere Swather a few years back... some notes from the post mortem:

The Zenith 1 barrel carb needed a complete rebuild and was chock full of dust and mud...after cleaning everything up the choke plate did not have it's full amount of motion due to corrosion.

The Motorola alternator seemed to function fine... (Dan has noted these are inferior to Ma Mopar's alternator...they do look a bit cheezy).

There was about a 1/4" of mud in the bores and layered across the top of the chamber, valves had pitting and rust on them. The fuel pump was fine but had one of the glass filter bowls like the early 60's truck had on it... and it looked like it had been passing mud for a while....

I would look toward seeing if the fuel system (lines/pump) are clear...then checking to see if the bores are plugged with crap (straw/hay/seed/mud)... I suspect the carb to be needing a revisit on the indexing/settings wrather than being an ignition problem. Is it a Holley or is it a Zenith/Stromberg with a governor?


-D.Idiot

Thanks you for the post.

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ok the volts at the coil seem to be good.

Carb has been rebuilt, and it does have the governor, is there a common problem with these?