LOL there isn't anything saying I am right either...
No worries!
~THOR~
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| strange chlunking, followed by an engine restart https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=40897 |
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| Author: | luigisir [ Sun Jul 04, 2010 6:01 pm ] |
| Post subject: | strange chlunking, followed by an engine restart |
when i stop my '70dart, the transmission makes a strong chlunking sound, accompanied by jerking, it seems to be in time to the engine, and often stops the engine completely, requiring an embarrassing shift to neutral and restart. obviously besides being inconvenient, i'm concerned it could be a safety issue, should i be required to avoid an accident by acceleration whilst my engine is off. if i shift to neutral on the approach, most of the time it doesn't happen. when i shift back into drive it starts to chlunk again. it goes away when i'm moving. after reading and "understanding" the posted transmission manual, i feel that it is more than likely either the torque converter or the valve body. opinions, ideas, followup questions, and general advice appreciated |
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| Author: | lancer61 [ Tue Jul 06, 2010 4:54 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
If it changes depending on N/D shifting I don't think it has anything to do with the converter, it rotates all the time anyway the only difference is that the turbine does not rotate in D (if the car is not moving), in N the turbine would also rotate, but you have all the fun noise in D so that should not be the problem. Now I can be 100% wrong here of course ;o) Does it shift ok and drive normal when moving ? Is the "clunking" sound metallic ? (metal parts touching each other ?) Something messed up with the park assembly ? does it work as it should in P ? |
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| Author: | THOR [ Tue Jul 06, 2010 10:16 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
My opinion would be the converter, since it seems the only time you have the problem is when the converter is spinning and the input shaft is not spinning. There wouldn't be an issue in park, neutral, or while driving because the shaft is spinning. I would guess that the converted is fudged inside, thus locking up and then releasing causing your issue. There really isn't anything else back there that would cause your symptoms. You should be able to get a converter for fairly cheap if it is a used one. ~THOR~ |
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| Author: | lancer61 [ Tue Jul 06, 2010 2:49 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
I guess that's the part where I might be 100% wrong... ;o) |
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| Author: | THOR [ Tue Jul 06, 2010 3:49 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
LOL there isn't anything saying I am right either... No worries! ~THOR~ |
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| Author: | Fopar [ Tue Jul 06, 2010 11:06 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Chris jack the car up on jack stands (only the front end) remove the sheet metal cover at the end of the motor (it is on the front of the bell-housing) Once it's off check the 4 bolts that hold the converter to the flex-plate (they should be 9/16" heads) be sure they are tight. Richard |
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| Author: | luigisir [ Wed Jul 07, 2010 5:27 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
The only problems I have are in drive or reverse, it seems to get worse as the engine warms up. In park and neutral there is a much quieter clacking that is coming from cylinder six; but the engine doesn't seem to be about to die or even stressed extra. Other than all that the shifting seems to be within expected ranges, my speedo is off by 20% so it's hard to tell for sure. One thing I noticed while cleaning out my crank vent sytem is that the line that goes from the breather cap to the rear (transmission?) had some engine oil and gunk in it? I will check the bolts tonight and see about finding a replacement converter. |
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| Author: | bigslant6fan [ Fri Jul 09, 2010 2:46 am ] |
| Post subject: | - |
Might be a latter lock-up trans,Can you give us the 7 digit part # located on the oil pan rail? |
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| Author: | Fopar [ Fri Jul 09, 2010 8:09 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
The number is on the drivers side, just below the shift linkage. It is stamped on the outside edge. Richard |
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| Author: | luigisir [ Fri Jul 09, 2010 12:10 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
k3410636a2944 at least as best i could tell. the bolts were nice and tight, and under the inspection plate was clean, but everywhere else under there looked like it hadn't been cleaned since it left the showroom. i'm gonna see if i can find a pressure washer. the transmission tunnel gets very hot after driving, i have no carpet, so i can feel the heat. |
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| Author: | luigisir [ Fri Jul 09, 2010 6:36 pm ] |
| Post subject: | fantastic! |
thank you so much to Fopar and Ceej for taking the time to diagnose and fix the problem! turns out it was much less expensive than the transmission. a valve lash adjustment and a couple turns with the old screwdriver on the 1920 by Fopar, and it's smooth like butter. thanks again! |
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| Author: | Fopar [ Fri Jul 09, 2010 8:37 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Chris you are quite welcome, was a pleasure to be of help to you.  Be sure to keep in touch call to be sure I'll be home. Richard |
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| Author: | ceej [ Fri Jul 09, 2010 11:23 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
 Good to meet you! Perhaps we'll get a chance to go after that exhaust sometime soon too. Your car shows a lot of potential!  CJ |
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| Author: | Fopar [ Sat Jul 10, 2010 7:34 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Numbers on transmission would make it an early '70 std duty used with Charger, Dart, dodge, Plymouth and Valiant. Richard |
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