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Front spring replacement
https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=41035		 Page 1 of 1
Author:  19Fury63 [ Wed Jul 14, 2010 9:49 am ]
Post subject:  Front spring replacement
I just recently noticed that the front spring on the driver's side has a crack in it, and is more than likely pretty close to failing completely.

I have looked all over the place for replacement springs for this car (63 Fury) but have had no luck...anyone know of a place that will have springs? I am planning to get some Edelbrock IAS shocks as well so I can get everything riding smooth again.

Jeff
Author:  Doc [ Wed Jul 14, 2010 10:04 am ]
Post subject: 
Do you mean "Torsion Bar"?
DD
Author:  19Fury63 [ Wed Jul 14, 2010 10:14 am ]
Post subject: 
wow, yes...one of those days sorry. Am I better off replacing the torsion bar with the like, or is there a "spring" replacement that is better off?

I am hoping to get a front and rear sway bar too, handling in this car is a tad too sloppy.
Author:  wjajr [ Wed Jul 14, 2010 1:26 pm ]
Post subject: 
Check with [url=http://www.firmfeel.com/default.htm] Firm Feel[/url], they have a nice selection of spring rates. For example when I replaced my Dart’s torsion bars I went from the stock slant six 0.082â€￾ to cop package 0.940â€￾ @ 150 lb/sq in. bars. Also installed a front anti sway bar by ADCO, 6 leaf rear springs from [url=http://www.springsnthings.com/] ESPO[/url], and Mopar bolt in sub frame connectors. That combo tightened her up, and gives nice flat cornering.

I’m not sure what your 63 Fury is: a “Bâ€￾; or “Câ€￾ body.

Slant six weighs roughly the same as 273 & 318ci V8, and is about 300 pounds lighter than the 383/400/440 big block engines. Sixty vintage standard suspensions were mush bucket class right from the show room. HD up grades were optional, and could be ordered that included HD bars, front anti sway bar, HD shocks, and HD rear springs on most models. By today’s standards, these optional HD set-ups aren’t so HD.
Author:  slantvaliant [ Wed Jul 14, 2010 1:39 pm ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
wow, yes...one of those days sorry. Am I better off replacing the torsion bar with the like, or is there a "spring" replacement that is better off?.
Relax. Torsion bars ARE springs. They're just a little different configuration than most folks are accustomed to seeing.
Author:  19Fury63 [ Wed Jul 14, 2010 7:02 pm ]
Post subject: 
Thanks for the help guys, I'll have to check into my options...I did find a set of replacement torsion bars but will have to see what else I can come up with...I'd really like to get a nice coilover suspension system but I know that will cost quite a bit.

Also, the 63 Fury is a "B" body.
Author:  slantfin [ Thu Jul 15, 2010 3:20 am ]
Post subject: 
Check out these ones: Tbars
Also, check out Just Suspension bars on ebay. I got a set of their 1" bars, and they are great so far. Made in USA.
Author:  19Fury63 [ Thu Jul 15, 2010 6:20 am ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
Check out these ones: Tbars
Also, check out Just Suspension bars on ebay. I got a set of their 1" bars, and they are great so far. Made in USA.
Will do, thanks a bunch. I also noticed that the passenger side of my car, in the front, sits 1.5" higher than the driver's side...measured from ground to top of the inner wheel well arch.
Author:  wjajr [ Thu Jul 15, 2010 8:29 am ]
Post subject: 
19Fury63,

Nice thing about torsion bars is they are adjustable. All this info is in the Factory Service Manual:

First park the car on a level, flat surface, empty trunk except spare tire & jack, and fill tank with gas.

Measure where the lower control arm intersects (in the center of LCA at lowest point of adjusting blade) the torsion bar to the floor. Record as dimension “Aâ€￾.

Measure from lowest point on steering knuckle arm (near grease fitting) to ground. Record as dimension “Bâ€￾.

Subtract B from A. Specification for a 67, and most likely your 63 is 1 7/8 inches +/- 1/8 inch.

Work side to side adjusting & jouncing suspension each time until side to side B-A dimension is with in 0â€￾ to 1/8th inch.

This is your factory ride height. Measuring to body parts will not give any useful information.

Have fun!
Author:  19Fury63 [ Thu Jul 15, 2010 11:40 am ]
Post subject: 
Useful info right there, thank you very much. I actually got a copy of the service manual (on CD) in the mail today so I will have some reading to do...I do see what you're referring to so I will read that section in depth and give it a go.

Thanks again,
Jeff
Author:  wjajr [ Thu Jul 15, 2010 11:49 am ]
Post subject: 
Good show old bean! You got the bible just in time for the weekend. Happy wrenching!

Bill
Author:  lancer61 [ Thu Jul 15, 2010 11:49 pm ]
Post subject: 
The "special tool" you need to remove them can be done pretty easy with two pieces of wood (2x6" or something like that), cut a grove on each one (about 1/2" deep) put some thin cloth on the torsion bar, put one piece of wood on each side of the bar on top of the cloth (with the bar in the groves), screw it together with some big screws, then you can knock yourself out on the wood with a hammer to get the torsion bar out without scratching it.
Author:  wjajr [ Fri Jul 16, 2010 1:49 pm ]
Post subject: 
Before you start beating on the old bar to dislodge it from the LCA, and making contraptions to clamp on to it, loosen the big nut that holds the LCA which faces to the front of the car. By providing some slack, or slop in the LCA that bar should rattle free and slide right out the rear mounting point. Be sure to first remove the locking “Câ€￾ clip the locks the torsion bar in place located on the rear side, of the rear cross member that it resides in.
Author:  19Fury63 [ Fri Jul 16, 2010 2:58 pm ]
Post subject: 
Great advice guys, thank you very much.

Now that I have the exhaust re-done the way I want it, I can start working on the handling a bit. :D
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