i need to know i have a 66 plymouth belvedere /6 225 going through full blown restoration its a sold lifter engine with adjustable rockers but can i change to a hydroulic lifter valve train ? is there enough lubrication in the lifter bores? do i have to do anything custom to them? secondly my engine has a balancer thats pressed on is that the only way it goes on or can the crank be modified to accept a bolt? im interested in an after market balancer also any good ones?? thanks \pony

The crank should already be threaded for a bolt. Clean out the dirt in the end of it and you should see threads.

You can switch to Hydraulic. Do a search here on the topic and you will find lots of info about what is needed.
It's not the best route to take, in my opinion. The lifters pump up through the pushrods. You will need the complete rocker shaft assembly and rear rocker bolt from a hydraulic engine, along with the hollow pushrods for that application and hydraulic lifters. The only oil lifters in a mechanical valve train get comes from oil draining back from the top.

Setting lash on a mechanical top end is pretty easy, holds for quite a while, and many more cam options are available.

CJ

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

I ALLREADY BOUGHT A COMP CAMS HYDROULIC KIT AND HAVE THE LIFTERS. SO I NEED ALL THE ROCKERS AND SHAFT SETUP ALONG WITH PUSH RODS FROM A HYDROULIC MOTOR? AND IT WILL BE COMPATIBLE WITH MY MOTOR? THANKS PONY

COULD I JUST USE THE SOLID VALVE TRAIN WITH MY HYDRAULIC CAM TO AVOID THE HASSLE?

No! You cannot use the solid lifter valve train with hydraulic lifters. You may, however be able to use solid lifters on that cam and run it as a tight-lash solid, but you'd have to talk with Comp about that. I would return the wrong cam and lifter kit. Tell us all about your engine and we'll guide you toward a cam that will work better than anything Comp has on the shelf. And please, STOP SHOUTING.

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Joshua

sorry bout that well its a 66 plymouth belvedere with a 225 /6 i understand it has forged internals from the factory im not trying to race it im just bringing it up to daily driver status. see what ive done is i used to have a 1/4 mile mustang that my wife and i had alot of fun with but we have had 2 kids since so i parted out my race car on ebay and started looking for a new toy. found this belvedere in a barn out in suffolk with 27000 original miles running and driving thing still had bias ply tires on it and bought it for $400 since, i have bought a set of .040 pistons, arp hardware, a set of oversized valves, comp cams cam kit (cam, lifters, timing chain kit, and springs) im pretty much making a strong yet reliable car that the wife kids and i can cruise around in any ideas or directions i should take?

Daily driver status. OK, to me this means a mild cam, matched compression ratio, a good idle, maybe a little higher stall than stock torque converter, probably 2.94 or 3.23 gears, 2 1/4" exhaust off a cleaned up stock manifold or Dutra Duals, heated intake manifold, 2bbl on a Super Six intake or small 4bbl on an Offy intake.

The only ARP hardware that even begins to make sense at this build level is rod bolts. Anything else is money that could have been spent elsewhere. Most cams in this performance range can work fine with new stock valve springs and retainers which is another money saver. Unless you spin the engine very fast heavy valve springs and upgraded retainers are unnecessary.

I don't know the specs of the cam you bought, but Dutra has worked with Erson to get some nice reverse dual pattern (RDP) cams ground which work very well. I live near Oregon Cam Grinding so I get custom stuff done there for my projects. My last cam from them was on a new thick shaft core so it was $140, but regrinds are $70.

No where do you mention electronic ignition. The HEI conversion is cheap, easy and highly effective. Use the search function and you'll find plenty to read.

Who will be doing the head work to install the larger valves? Is anyone going to port the head?

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Joshua