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Are all stock 225 cams the same?
https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=41212		 Page 1 of 1
Author:  1966wagon [ Mon Jul 26, 2010 7:22 pm ]
Post subject:  Are all stock 225 cams the same?
Just wondering if all stock 225's came with the same camshaft? If not what where the changes(what years & PN#'s differ)? oh and what are the stock specs?
Author:  ceej [ Mon Jul 26, 2010 7:35 pm ]
Post subject: 
Nope. They weren't.

The early camshaft had a 232 degree duration and .400" lift. The later, 71 to 77 had a 244 degree duration and .410" lift.

The 244 was often called the "Marine Cam," as that was where myth suggests it came from. :lol: (Might be!)

The Hyperpak cam had 276 degree duration, and .430" lift.

There was a 268 degree, .460" lift cam, and a 276 degree, .490 lift cam also from D.C.

The last three weren't installed at the factory AFAIK.

Not sure if the part numbers are going to help you much. Take a look for further information in the Articles section. (Hit the Home button and then look it up in the slant six racing manual.)

CJ
Author:  1966wagon [ Mon Jul 26, 2010 8:41 pm ]
Post subject: 
Can they be interchangeable or would you have to change anything?
Author:  ceej [ Mon Jul 26, 2010 9:34 pm ]
Post subject: 
The 244 is a good upgrade for the older cam profile. Good all around cam. No changes needed other than new lifters, and making sure the rest of the valve train is in good health.

Look into an Erson RV10M, RV15M and some of the other options in the Erson Group Buy Thread. Josh may have some suggestions for re-ground cams. When you start spinning faster, or using a bunch more lift, you may need to examine the valve spring choice.

What are you trying to do with the car? It's pretty important prior to setting your sights on a bunch of lift and duration numbers. An Erson 280/270 RDP is a great cam, but isn't the best choice for running to the market or taking the twins to soccer practice. :wink:

CJ
Author:  1966wagon [ Mon Jul 26, 2010 9:51 pm ]
Post subject: 
Actually I have one 1963 engine and a 1976, some of the stuff in the 76' is a little messed up :? so i was going to use parts from the 63'. I was just trying to find info from people who know whats what. As for the rebuild just doin' my first one(so super basic), so I'm trying to make sure i know whats going on. thanks for the help!

Just a question, even with the larger cam, would there be valve clearance issues. And what is AFAIK
Author:  DusterIdiot [ Mon Jul 26, 2010 10:13 pm ]
Post subject:  Not really...
Quote:
Just a question, even with the larger cam, would there be valve clearance issues.
Not with our engines, you'll cut out about .2" out of the head and deck and still have lots of room before you hit a piston at TDC...

When you decide to up the SCR to about 12:1+ then you might need to check depending on your cam choice...

For a daily driver mill you're still in the clear.

-D.Idiot
Author:  1966wagon [ Mon Jul 26, 2010 10:45 pm ]
Post subject: 
Alright then, sounds like there are some good options then, thanks
Author:  Charrlie_S [ Tue Jul 27, 2010 4:13 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Not really...
Quote:
Quote:
Just a question, even with the larger cam, would there be valve clearance issues.
Not with our engines, you'll cut out about .2" out of the head and deck and still have lots of room before you hit a piston at TDC...


For a daily driver mill you're still in the clear.

-D.Idiot
Just a FYI: This info is correct for the 225, but not the 170 engine. On the 170, with any head mill over about .050, and any aftermarket cam, you should check piston to valve clearance.
Author:  ceej [ Tue Jul 27, 2010 6:31 am ]
Post subject: 
AFAIK = As Far As I Know :D

CJ
Author:  olafla [ Tue Jul 27, 2010 6:49 pm ]
Post subject: 
The shop manual for 1979 says 244° duration, but .406" intake lift, and .414" lift on the exhaust.
For those interested, the other data are as follows:
Intake open 16° BTC
Intake closes 48° ATC
Exhaust opens 54° BBC
Exhaust closes 10° ATC
Valve overlap 26°
Lash is set at .010" intake and .020" exhaust

And tip of the day for those who tear off their hair (I'm close to bald!) every time they need to use some degrees and try finding that f.....g little °, try: Alt Gr + shift + 0
(that is the Alt on the right side on the keyboard - the key nearest to the big space-bar, plus shift and zero simultaniously)

Olaf
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