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 Post subject: electrical issues
PostPosted: Thu Jul 29, 2010 11:30 pm 
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1 BBL (New)

Joined: Wed Jul 28, 2010 11:20 pm
Posts: 7
Car Model:
There are two things occuring the headlights go brighter when I press on the accelerator and the ammeter moves to the right. Then dimmer when I take my foot off the accelerator. The bigger problem is that whether the engine is on or not after a few minutes after I have pulled the light switch to "on" my headlights, start to turn off and on their own. I replaced the voltage regulator, but this did not help.I have no idea what could cause this. I could really use someones input on this dilemma.

Sincerely,

Daniel Drabinsky


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jul 30, 2010 12:55 am 
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EFI Slant 6
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Joined: Wed May 12, 2010 4:27 pm
Posts: 396
Location: Seattle, WA
Car Model:
Info on car and year would be helpful. On older cars slightly dim headlights at idle are normal. As for the ammeter, it will always move to the right when engine RPMs rise above idle (at least on older cars with stock low amp alternators or generators).

How often do they turn off and back on? Does it happen more when you shake the car? Is the period when they are on or off always the same length of time? Also, is this a new development, and if so what was changed leading up to the issue?

Two likely issues could be a bad ground somewhere, or a section of damaged wire.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jul 30, 2010 1:12 am 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Joined: Sun Nov 05, 2006 12:27 am
Posts: 536
Location: Rawson,Australia
Car Model:
Hi Daniel,
Built into the headlight switch mechanism,is a thermal overload cut out.
What you have is not an uncommon problem in 40 + year old cars.
Fitting relays to your system will fix your problem.
See THIS THREAD on Mopar Market here in Oz. It should help you to fix your problem. And no - just replacing the headlight switch will not solve your problem,it might work for a while,but old wiring and connectors,usually mean the problem will return. One question - have you upgraded the rating of your headlights? to 100 watt type perhaps? to put it simply,the original equipment ca'nt handle the current that higher rated bulbs or sealed beams draw. An advantage of fitting relays to your system,is that it takes the load off your tired old light switch,and you will find most likely that it will work for many years to come with no issues.
As for your lights brightening when the revs increase - that is entirely normal in our older vehicles,particularly if the charging system is original.
Lets get those lights working first,then worry about a bit of voltage fluctuation.

regards,Rod :D


Last edited by walpolla on Sun Aug 01, 2010 3:42 am, edited 4 times in total.

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 Post subject: electrical issues
PostPosted: Sat Jul 31, 2010 11:12 pm 
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1 BBL (New)

Joined: Wed Jul 28, 2010 11:20 pm
Posts: 7
Car Model:
The car is a 1969 dodge dart 4 door custom. What was changed was the alternator. There was a third wire that looked as though it had some kind of resistor. This wire ran from the alternator to I think the starter relay. I do not know the name for the wire as I do not have a parts book. If you know then that would be really helpful. This third wire was unique to the 1969. I have a 1963, 1965, and 1968 but they did not have this third wire. The wire was damaged so I crimped two pieces back together. A a few days later the lights started flashing in three second intervals. So when i went to investigate the problem I discovered the part of the wire with the resistor had completely disappeared. Now if I just sit in the car the lights flash on......3 sec then flash off........then flash on. Now I do not know if the missing wire and the flashing lights are even related.

Sincerely,

Daniel Drabinsky


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 31, 2010 11:16 pm 
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1 BBL (New)

Joined: Wed Jul 28, 2010 11:20 pm
Posts: 7
Car Model:
This problem with the headlights is a completely new issue


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Aug 01, 2010 12:05 am 
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EFI Slant 6
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Joined: Wed May 12, 2010 4:27 pm
Posts: 396
Location: Seattle, WA
Car Model:
Still slightly confused.

You mention an extra wire coming off the alternator. Was that the alternator you removed or the one you installed? According to the wiring diagram below the stock alternator only had 2 wires.

Also, you mention crimping together the broken ends of this third wire. Can you explain a little more on what you mean by that?

Lastly, what is your current wiring like? Do you currently have a 3 or 2 wire alternator?

Image

PS- I decided to respond here rather than in the Engine section since it seems more appropriate in this section.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Aug 04, 2010 12:29 pm 
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1 BBL (New)

Joined: Wed Jul 28, 2010 11:20 pm
Posts: 7
Car Model:
Well the wire with what I think had a resistor attached to it was frayed with age. So after I removed it broke in half in my hands. I had a wire fixing kit which allowed me to reconnect the two wires together again. It acted like a bridge then I squeezed either end with a pair pf pliers to secure the connection. There were three wires coming off the alternator. Whether the third had any significance I do not know. However, my headlights began to flash in 3 second intervals after the wires loss. 3 second on, 3 second off. Is the loss of the third wire from my alternator significant. My new alternator has a connection for that third wire as did my previous one.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Aug 04, 2010 1:48 pm 
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EFI Slant 6
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Joined: Wed May 12, 2010 4:27 pm
Posts: 396
Location: Seattle, WA
Car Model:
Are you absolutely sure this is the correct stock style alternator? It sounds like someone before you switched to a 3-wire.

Where do all your wires go currently?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Aug 05, 2010 5:29 am 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sat Feb 16, 2008 1:25 pm
Posts: 5611
Location: Downeast Maine
Car Model:
Dodgeman,

Maybe this will help:

Below is a photograph of a two field alternator which is not standard equipment for my 67 Dart. It came with a single field alternator. These days it is harder to find a single field unit, and a lot of folks just slap in the double field, higher output alternator, and call it good.

When installing a double field alternator in a car that was designed for a single field, one must ground one of the fields to the block as I have done with my alternator.

The far left dark blue conductor connects to one of the field terminals and goes to ground. The middle wire feeds the wire harness just like the original single field alternator did, and the right hand wire lands on the battery terminal.

Bill


Image

_________________
67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

Image


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Aug 11, 2010 4:10 pm 
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3 Deuce Weber
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Joined: Fri May 01, 2009 4:26 pm
Posts: 54
Location: Portland, Oregon
Car Model:
My headlights used to go off and on, and the problem was simply the headlight dimmer switch was fried.

_________________
Image
1967 Barracuda 225


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 Post subject: flashing lights
PostPosted: Fri Aug 20, 2010 5:00 pm 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Thu Jul 01, 2010 9:02 am
Posts: 32
Location: tallahassee fl.
Car Model:
Third wire was most likely a ground. Have no idea why field wire is grounded.But sounds to me like cut out diode in alternator is
dieing. Does any thing odd happen with key on car not running?
shadetree

_________________
brass handled wrench,bfh and a BIG screw
driver. If it aint drawn blood you aint done.


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