well got a FREE SUPER SIX W/904 for FREE yesterday, from a '75 duster complete i mean everything !!!!! radiator, hoses, brand new alt, newer fuel pump AND IT WAS ALL FREEEEEE !!!!!!!! any way i pulled the super six setup off installed my cliffy 4bbl with a edelbrock 650cfm 1405 carb custom 2" wood spacer, and 2 1/4 exhaust with flow master 40 series dumping in front of the rear tires. cam is stock from factory, going to swap my 280/270 in as soon as i can swing by a certain someones for a visit lol, idle in gear is about 700rpm, out of gear round 1000rpm.

Now the question she has severe hesitation and have to easeeee in to the throttle, but about 1500rpm and half throttle she opens a can-o-whoopass, but again if i mash it she bogs downnnn baaaad, i have noticed on the carb the secondarys don't come on till mid throttle. now if she is in park or neutral you can ease into then mash it and she goes like no tomorrow, so what is causing it to damn near die when there is a load being applied ?? too much carb ??

btw it got a bit better when i bypassed edelbrocks recommendation of using the port on the back of the carb for power brakes and in stead used the port on the #6 runner (drilled and tapped with a brass nipple installed),

dunno about this one gentlemen, pulled another alnighter 29hours concious, shower, store for food, BED

-Mike

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I am the Guardian, I hate helos, everything leaks.......

What does your vacuum gauge show when it starts to fade?

The 650 cfm carb is too much for a stock cam and stock compression.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

The 1405 is a 600 cfm model, unless it has been modified somehow.

I'd hazard a guess that the accelerator pump isn't delivering a good shot, the shooter isn't right, or the accelerator pump link is not in an appropriate hole.
You would be better off changing the primary annular boosters out for 500 cfm boosters unless you have a boatload of compression and install that RDP 280/270. Then the 600 might be the trick. Check your metering rods and jets. The 1405 is the lean offering 600 cfm carb. you can re-jet it to the middle and it'll work better for a performance application.

If your running a stock compression ratio and/or cam, the 600 is a bit much. Convert to 500 cfm and appropriate jets. (Look up the Edelbrock table for the 500 and set it up at OEM specs.) You really want a 1403 or 1404.

CJ

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

my bad it is a 600cfm ceej, but it was free, plus a $20 rebuild kit, and i was set,i will try the 3 different holes and see if that helps, i will also try bending the arm a bit, i was going to install the 280/270 cam hopefully tomorrow, also my header flanges came in yesterday, which is another blessing ccause my sheet steel patch i made to go over the "heater box" section of the exaust mani held up for about 6mins before it popped, so it makes me wonder if an ehaust leak that close to the head could also give me issues, i will be working on fabbing up my header tomorrow, hopefully in the car by mid afternoon, hell that busted block may come in handy after all lol,


-Mike

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I am the Guardian, I hate helos, everything leaks.......

Good Price!

CJ

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

indeed it is good sir, doubt it the accelerator pump, the thing POURS fuel in the front 2 barrels, then at about half throttle the boosters actually kick in and touch bit hore than half less than 3/4 the back 2 barrels come to life, and those boosters spray......... i realllllly dont like this turd, no sir, gonna try and swap this with the guy i got it from ( hes a dumb chebby lover) get his oh so nice holley 600..........ummmm super easy tuning, if i can't any one on here a edelbrock carb tuner ??


-Mike

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I am the Guardian, I hate helos, everything leaks.......

A 600 Holley isn't going to be much better than the Edelbrock and in fact may be worse. You need a smaller carburetor.

Also, that Erson 280/270 cam needs a good 9.5:1 or better compression ratio to work well. And a higher stall torque converter. Too much carb (check) and too much cam (in the works) and you will turn that car into a slug off the line.

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Joshua

well thats where my turbo comes in, and the carb is junk (maybe) at idle its dribbling gas ( when viewing the carb from the front) from the left primary booster its kinda steady, and on the right primary is intermitent, when replacing the boosters, is it 1.) do all 4 boosters need replaced ?? what about the squirters ??


-Mike

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I am the Guardian, I hate helos, everything leaks.......

Well, it could still be the accelerator pump..........

It's just the opposite of the usual (too little or no gas) problem and it's TOO MUCH gas...

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

Float is too high or there is something in the needle and seat not letting it seal properly.

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An officialis Tyrde-Browne Racing membrum

If the boosters are dripping fuel at idle it's highly likely the float level is too high.

I don't understand the question about the boosters. If you're asking about turning the 600 into a 500 then the primary boosters, the primary metering rods and primary jets need to be changed. The secondaries stay the same. The squirter can usually be swapped to a smaller size as less pump shot is needed before the main metering circuit starts flowing fuel.

Turbo or no turbo the 600 is too much carb. Turbo or no turbo the Erson 280/270 in a low compression engine will be a dog at low speeds.

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Joshua

i will check the float level tomorrow, yes i was asking about turning it into a 500cfm carb, whats a good carb for a soon to be turbo app ?? if its a 390cfm i ain't got the $400+ for a new one.

emsvitil i just rebuilt the carb with a new accelerator pump seal and new needles and seats gonna double check the float height, but according to the instructions i got they are supposed to be at 1" total droop will try and shorten that in 1/16th's and see if it helps any,

-Mike

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I am the Guardian, I hate helos, everything leaks.......

That is droop, or drop level, when the carb/top is in the upright position. Or how far down the float can go. What needs to be checked it the float high level position, when the carb is full of fuel....Take the top off and invert it, If the float level is correct, you should be able to just roll a 7/16" drill bit under the leading edge of the float seam,(it should be in the middle of the float), with the gasket in place. You should measure with carb top, gasket together. The drill bit goes between the gasket and the float. I hope this helps.

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An officialis Tyrde-Browne Racing membrum

this is a link to Edelbrock, for the owners manual for these carbs. Lots of good info...

http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive_new ... manual.pdf

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An officialis Tyrde-Browne Racing membrum

riddle me this, the car will start run and drive with waaaay to much 4bbl, but i put the carter 2bbl back on (came off the old motor, and i rebuilt it before i put it on) won't, start, run, nothing, but it will back fire through the intake ?? WTF !! which makes me think timing...... but then why does she run with a 4bbl but not 2bbl ??

riddle #2 when under acceleration the car surges, pops, spits and sputters, at any throttle position !! but if the throttle is held at say 2500rpms in gear.....nothing but if you try to accelerate at all it acts like it wants to die,

i did the 7/16th drill bit thing with the floats, and according to edelbrock with the top upright, the float "droop" should measure 15/16ths, did that but the idle is erratic as hell start car in park, adjust the idle to 1200rpm outta gear, put it in gear rpm's fall to about 500-600rpms and it will stall itself, drive the car and the idle will sky rocket to around 2000rpm's !!

i am so lost at this point, i just want to put my simple carter 2bbl back on and drive the car, not fight to keep it running,

-Mike

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I am the Guardian, I hate helos, everything leaks.......