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New Member Has Questions
https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=41547		 Page 1 of 1
Author:  Augie Dog [ Sat Aug 21, 2010 12:37 pm ]
Post subject:  New Member Has Questions
I just took ownership of a 1987 D-100 short bed with a slant and 4 spd. Iwas told it had blown a rod but have not verified this at this time. I have always wanted to build a slant and now is the time. This will be my 16 yr. old sons truck so it will be a daily driver and tow our small bass boat. Not looking for big power just enough to have fun and still be fuel efficient and reliable.
Author:  Aggressive Ted [ Sat Aug 21, 2010 12:46 pm ]
Post subject: 
Welcome!

Take a look at the Engine Build's under Engine FAQ, Engine Build Matrix. You can get some good ideas of what typical things are done on a rebuild. Take a look at my set up "Torque and Mileage".

You can click on the red link below my name to see how my rebuild came out.
Author:  Wesola78 [ Sat Aug 21, 2010 1:42 pm ]
Post subject: 
Welcome to the site!
As far as your engine build, ditto what Ted said.
Have fun!
Author:  olafla [ Sun Aug 22, 2010 9:57 pm ]
Post subject: 
Welcome, Augie Dog, we'll help as much as we can. Some feedback and progress report in the form of some pictures now and then will be much appreciated by us all.

Olaf
Author:  Augie Dog [ Tue Aug 24, 2010 5:01 pm ]
Post subject: 
OK! so this is what is happening with the 87 D100 I just got. I was told it threw a rod so I checked block and oil pan and did not see rod(doesn't mean it didn't) so I remove plug to drain oil and pull pan and to my surprise :cry: WATER comes out.... and lots of it! So after I run VIN and get as much info as I can get, is this engine worth rebuilding if block,head are good? The carb is MIA It does have aluminum manifold I noticed. Is that an indication this could be a 225 c.u.? Can I get away with eliminating some pollution junk that is on there? Does any one have a ball park figure of cost to rebuild if not trashed? Looking to do little power upgrade but make it realiable and get good mpg. This is a father/son project with the son getting the truck when finished. He gets his license in November 2010
Author:  Brussell [ Tue Aug 24, 2010 5:47 pm ]
Post subject: 
Hi,

when I got my slant It was in alright condition.
If the internals of the engine are good that's great it won't cost you much.

I was told for a complete rebuild around 4000 - 5000 $$AUD

I got abit more power by installing extractors, and a 2bbl carb cost around (AUD)$800 to do this and it was a noticeable gain.

Think it's also worth upgrading the ignition for me this was (AUD)$400...

Easy way for power increase would be to shave the head for some more comp. this is fairly cheap.

www.pentastarparts.com.au/sunshop has been a good site for me, it's australia based but you could use it to get an idea of costs.
Author:  ceej [ Tue Aug 24, 2010 6:11 pm ]
Post subject: 
In an '87, it is undoubtedly a 225 unless the engine has been swapped. Doubtful.
There is no way to answer the rebuild question until you get it out, apart, and see what you have to work with.
Some folks like the Hydraulic top ends and cast crank. Not my cup of tea.
If you need to meet emissions, then you may need to replace it with something similar. Removal of "Pollution Junk" may or may not be adviseable based on that consideration. Some of it actually works pretty well. Other bits fit your description rather nicely! :lol:

Lot's of options when replacing the engine. Just depends on budget and how close good engines you find are. Shipping an engine is an expensive proposition, and not all years will bolt up to your vehicle. This is primarily a question of connecting the engine to an existing transmission. Some don't bolt together.
HP Builds for Hydraulic engines are available, but not as prevalent, nor as exotic as many of the solid lifter builds. Going experimental is expensive, so ask questions of those who created builds in the matrix you think would be a good fit for the application.

You've hit the mother-load of slant six know-how here at dot org! :D

2¢

CJ
Author:  Augie Dog [ Wed Aug 25, 2010 2:49 pm ]
Post subject: 
Well I recieved good news today from my friend at Hedrix Collison Center here in North Carolina. He ran the vin and it is a 3.7 lt. and I am guessing that translates into a 225 c.u. WoooHoooo!! I think this is going to be fun. But before I get to excited I need to pull the engine and disassemble and see what damage if any has been done from water and alleged thrown rod. Thanks for all your help and I will keep you posted whaen I get this going. My son is driving me nuts already to get started.
Author:  66aCUDA [ Thu Aug 26, 2010 5:21 am ]
Post subject: 
MAKE SURE YOU MEASURE when you disassenble the block. You will need to know how far down the hole the pistons are. Also check the cc's of the head.
Frank
Author:  Doc [ Thu Aug 26, 2010 8:34 am ]
Post subject: 
Get a good light and inspect the bottom of the cylinder bores for cracks or signs of water running down from the head area.
When it comes to an "engine full of water", you need to figure-out how the water got into the crankcase before spending any more time or money on that engine.
DD
Author:  Augie Dog [ Thu Aug 26, 2010 1:55 pm ]
Post subject: 
I can tell you how the water got in the oil pan. The PO took the air cleaner and carb off,then removed the hood and it sat in their yard like that for 2 years :shock: :shock: :( . I plan on doing a complete inspection of every thing before I get to far in it.
Author:  GTS225 [ Thu Aug 26, 2010 3:16 pm ]
Post subject: 
No hood, out in the open for two years! :shock: That could very well be the source of your water.
Personally, I think I'd hand crank the engine over and listen for any odd noises. (Spray a good amount of WD-40 down each spark plug hole when you do this to lubricate the rings and cylinders.) If none, then I'd try mounting a starter and get it to crank electrically, without spark plugs in the head. If you get no odd noises, and you can detect compression coming out of all the spark plug holes, then there's no broken rod. This doesn't rule out the possibility of a spun rod bearing, though.
It just might be worth the trouble to get a carb on it and feed it some fuel. Get it running, even if only for a minute, to see if it does run, and how well. Once that's done, you can go from there with the info you develop.

Roger
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