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Frame connectors (When to install)
https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=41557		 Page 1 of 2
Author:  Mister Twister [ Sun Aug 22, 2010 8:32 am ]
Post subject:  Frame connectors (When to install)
(Now) After driving the Duster with these, I would never take them back out!!
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It took almost one hour to install these start to finish. :D No floor cutting.
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All around test drive was sweet. You just have to try this to know the difference.
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Also installed these in Charrlies 65 Valiant 106" wheel base car!!
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Should I say, that was easy. 63-76 bolt in frame ties? Thanks MaX
Author:  ryandcovalt [ Sun Aug 22, 2010 11:32 am ]
Post subject: 
Looks good! 1 hour install is great too.
Any disadvantages compared to weld in frame connectors?
Author:  Mister Twister [ Sun Aug 22, 2010 4:11 pm ]
Post subject: 
Thanks Randy, :? Don't think so, feels like I welded them in. We like the idea of being able to remove them easily, for when I get ready to replace my rusty floor pans. :(
Author:  ceej [ Sun Aug 22, 2010 5:32 pm ]
Post subject: 
What wall thickness and what was total weight?

CJ
Author:  Mister Twister [ Mon Aug 23, 2010 2:22 am ]
Post subject: 
The thickness is 1/8", :) I will be checking on the shipping today then post the weight. I did make a couple extra sets as well :!: Talk to you all later, back to the header building this week Don. :D
Author:  Mister Twister [ Tue Aug 24, 2010 3:17 am ]
Post subject: 
Ok Ceej, 8) the total weight with the bolt kit supplied :shock: Less than 30lbs :!: Don
Author:  Rick Covalt [ Tue Aug 24, 2010 5:14 am ]
Post subject:  Cost?
What do these cost Don?

Rick
Author:  Mister Twister [ Tue Aug 24, 2010 1:42 pm ]
Post subject: 
The cost for these shipped with bolt kit is $180.00 in the good ol U.S.A.
Thanks for asking Rick. (in stock) ready for shipping.
Author:  ceej [ Tue Aug 24, 2010 8:58 pm ]
Post subject: 
You could make those out of much lighter material. Mine are 16 gauge.
They might weigh 8# between them. Much, much lighter.

The old ones I had were 1/8" 2x2 box and weighed about the same as your connectors. There is no notable difference in chassis stiffness between the 1/8" Steel box and the 1x2 16 ga. ones I now run. I could jack the car up on the 1/8" connectors though. :lol:

The subframe connector is not a frame. You are controlling the distance between the subframes, which locks the geometry of the chassis in. They should not be thought of as something that will keep the car from twisting by brute strength. They do so in conjunction with the unibody and the cross members.

Once the diagonal distances are locked in by limiting how far the cross members can move in relation to each other on both sides, your golden.

Bolting them in works just fine. It is very important to measure the cars geometry before installing SFC's . Those geometries must be correct prior to installation.

All chassis geometry checks are outlined in the FSM.

CJ
Author:  Mister Twister [ Wed Aug 25, 2010 4:01 am ]
Post subject: 
Good :idea: Ceej I will check into aluminum that I can weld also. Going to check on the new material price, might out way itself in shipping savings. As far as the thickness, :? I had some 2X2 box that was .085 This is the same thickness of my turbo header wall. thought it was to thin, and 16ga is like .045 or close if I'm remembering right. You are right Ceej I no longer have to look for a jacking spot :o Thanks for the info Don.
Author:  DusterIdiot [ Wed Aug 25, 2010 5:26 am ]
Post subject:  For Reference...
Just for reference....16 Ga is 1/16 or .063 thickness... 11 ga is .125....


-D.Idiot
Author:  Mister Twister [ Fri Aug 27, 2010 4:09 am ]
Post subject: 
Thanks for the info all. To many numbers in my head right know. .050 and .060 is what I use all the time. I will be going to the track next week to try the extra pounds out. Back to it, see ya Don :arrow:
Author:  ceej [ Mon Aug 30, 2010 9:39 pm ]
Post subject: 
What times are you running with the Duster?

Before and after.

I get a lot of variation. All based on weight. The more I take off, the faster it goes.
Now I drag race only, so this discussion needs more info from the guys that need to steer and drive around to figure out where the finish line is. 'Tards, to be sure. Don't understand the fascination with not knowing where your going, but far be it from me to judge. :lol: :D Better duck and cover! :lol:

CJ
Author:  Mister Twister [ Wed Sep 08, 2010 3:12 am ]
Post subject: 
The car is running 16.30 @ 82.5 so far. Darn Ceej, I'm going the wrong way, just added 50lbs. 20lbs on the exhaust that will change all the time and 30lbs with the frame ties :? Aluminum is looking better all the time. I hope the exhaust difference makes up for the added tie weight :!: I still like the way it feels now :) sure footed. Hope to take the car out tomorrow!! See yall later Don.
Author:  Mister Twister [ Sat Sep 11, 2010 6:07 am ]
Post subject: 
:shock: I could not get the car to spin at all :twisted: The car is allot faster with the new exhaust and added weight :?: So 50lbs to the car was nothing, shoot the car is almost a 1/2 a second faster :!: The only change to the car besides the ties was the exhaust.
Here is what I was running, no frame ties. PowerPipe-DC with a Y near tranny mount, single pipe to an extream cherry bomb muffler, single inlet duel outlet for two tail pipes, all pipe was 2 1/4". The car ran 16.30 at its best. :) You could here the car all the way down the track.
Here is the new system, with my frame ties. PowerPipe-PF my X+Y system, single pipe to my PowerPipe two chamber muffler, also single inlet duel outlet with two tail pipes as well. All pipe now 2" from the motor back. You could not here the car much after it left the line now.
The car now ran 15.87 and picked up over two mph. We had Dodge Girl ride with for a in car video the car stayed in the 15's. :shock: I am very happy with the gain. :twisted: Times they are a changing 8) Don
http://www.stormcomm.net/mrtwister/
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