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Dart Overheating
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Author:  metalhead [ Sun Aug 22, 2010 3:11 pm ]
Post subject:  Dart Overheating
My 67 /6 225 was running a little hot the other day when my wife drove it. Did not want it to leave her on the side of the road when she drove it so I replaced water pump, t-stat, flushed system, and bypassed leaking heater core, and installed new belt. Has flex fan (no clutch) and no shroud thanks to the p.o. after doing the above work took the car for a drive five minutes on surface streets was ok. Turned it off to fill it with gas left there drove five more minutes on surface street was still ok. Got on highway drove three miles at 65 and temp went almost to hot. Got off turned around and headed home on surface streets, was right at the hot mark when I got home, used towel on my hand to feel the upper hose, and could feel the water boiling inside. Need advice on where to go from here.
Author:  ceej [ Sun Aug 22, 2010 3:26 pm ]
Post subject: 
Check the lower radiator hose first. If it is collapsing, install a hose spring in a new hose, and reinstall.

If that doesn't do it:

When it cools off, pull the block plug and see if anything comes out. Use a screwdriver or something similar to clear whatever is plugging it and get water out of the block. Remove the radiator cap to help it drain.

Look down in the radiator. If there is a bunch of junk in there, pull it and get it flushed out.

Further: Pull the intake/exhaust. Pop the freeze plugs, and inspect. If there is a bunch of crud in there you will need to flush the block.

Pull the head and replace the head gasket. Early steel shim gaskets can rot out and bypass water. The only path for water into the head should be at the back of the block. The other holes are used to shake sand out during the casting process.

Now you have a plan! :D

CJ
Author:  Josh P [ Sun Aug 22, 2010 3:30 pm ]
Post subject: 
Have you checked the oil level? Oil plays a part in the cooling system.
Other things to check for are:
-low coolant level (it often takes a couple times to fully fill the cooling system because of air pockets in the water jackets)
-collapsed lower radiator hose
-restriction in your overflow hose or the radiator itself
-radiator cap

Also, if you haven't done a valve lash adjustment in a while you might want to check for tight exhaust valves. And out of curiosity, what thermostat did you get and what is the temp rating?
Author:  metalhead [ Mon Aug 23, 2010 5:50 am ]
Post subject: 
tstat is duralast 192 rating. that is what was listed for oe temp.
oil level is spot on. valve adjustment a week ago along with timing
and points. both hoses are flex style with springs in them not new but in good shape. installed new cap with the work that was just done.
gonna pull radiator and take it for flushing before i tear down the top end.
Author:  Sam Powell [ Mon Aug 23, 2010 9:02 am ]
Post subject: 
Try placing the thermostat in a pan of boiling water, and see if it opens.

Sam
Author:  Josh P [ Mon Aug 23, 2010 9:19 am ]
Post subject: 
metalhead, I'm curious if the car was warmed up when you stopped for gas, and did you watch the temp. gauge after starting the car at the gas station?

A good indication that you have coolant flowing is a hot start. While the car sits the coolant in the head just sits there and soaks up the heat. When the car is started the temp. gauge will read very high, but now that the water pump is moving you should see the temp. come down pretty quickly (5 mins or less).

Also, for the record, I love Sam's boil-the-thermostat suggestion! The solution to an automotive question is in the kitchen, you can even grab some refreshments while you wait for the water to boil :P
Author:  Doc [ Mon Aug 23, 2010 9:32 am ]
Post subject: 
My son and I "cooked" thermostat this weekned... Uhmmm... goood. :lol: :wink:

Seriously... we have had some "running hot" issues with the tow wagon, it has been getting a little warm up long hills and sure enough, it had a faulty T-stat that would only open about 1/4 inch, then stick.

It was interesting to see how different some of the thermostats we tested were, all had the same rating (180 degrees in our case) but some would open faster and "wider" then others.

We must of tested 10 or 12 new and used units in total... threw 5 of those units into the trash can... they just did not open much. :shock:
DD
Author:  Josh P [ Mon Aug 23, 2010 9:41 am ]
Post subject: 
Doc, sounds like a fun experiment. Care to share the results? Which units did you test and which performed the best?
Author:  makapipi [ Mon Aug 23, 2010 10:22 am ]
Post subject:  overheating
2nd the Thermostat. co worker had car overheating. he replaced thermostat still same , replaced water pump and radiator, still hot. replaced
thermostat again now okay.
Author:  Doc [ Mon Aug 23, 2010 10:26 am ]
Post subject: 
No real data collection to report on...
It kind of went like this:

Allen: "Dad, the wagon did not really warm-up this morning and ran like crap cold."

Doc: " That recycled - used T-stat we "stole" from Ceej may be faulty, here, take this large "bucket-full" of t-stats and sort-out all the 180 degree units, then boil some water and test them, to see how they open".
(I continue to assemble a set of Dutra manifolds to ship-out)

30 minutes later...
Allen: "Here are a couple of units that seem to work well, and a few more that also work, but "a litttle slower"... and these are junk."

Doc: " Good work, (Buzz goes the grinder and drill as I unshroud the selected T-stat's outlet area and drill a vent hole) Go install this one in the car."

15 minutes later...
Allen: "I have a small leak... whats gives?"

Doc: " Where's the 9/16th wrench" ?
(loosens t-stat cover, slides it around to "nest" the stat into the recess & retightens cover)

Allen: "That did it, thanks... time for a test drive."

We both move onto other projects.
DD
Author:  KBB_of_TMC [ Mon Aug 23, 2010 10:29 am ]
Post subject: 
Don't forget to look for a small pressure leaks; by far, most of my overheating problems came from them. Now, every time I work on my cooling system I pressure test it to 15psi before I fill it, and I also test every thermostat before I install or reinstall it.

Also, after I changed coolant once (on a 383ci Ply V8), I had sudden overheat on the gauge within a mile - stopped the car and the gauge dropped back to normal before I could turn it off. I guess there was a lot of air trapped that couldn't escape until the thermostat finally opened, then all was well. After that, I made it a point to clean out the (or drill a) little vent hole in the thermostats.
Author:  Aggressive Ted [ Mon Aug 23, 2010 1:46 pm ]
Post subject: 
I have been experimenting with the Robert Shaw Series thermostats the last few years. They are suppose to be extra high flow.......using the part#330-205, 205 degree in the winter and have enjoyed the 195 and 180 units in the spring and summer. I ordered them from Summit Racing in order to find something better than the Stant Super Stat series. I have had a few Super Stats stick from time to time. Not good when running a electric fan on super hot days sitting in traffic!
Author:  emsvitil [ Mon Aug 23, 2010 1:49 pm ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
tstat is duralast 192 rating. that is what was listed for oe temp.........

Nope, OE temp for a 67 is 180................
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