Hi all,

I recently moved to WA from Los Angeles, CA, and my Dart is having a bit of trouble starting on colder mornings and later at night after not being driven for most of the day. I give the gas a tap (have also tried 2 or 3) and it just cranks for a few minutes then I get a few near starts and finally it will fire up and run extra rough for a few minutes.

I should note that I am missing my fast idles screw (anybody know where to get an idle screw spring?), and I haven't adjusted the choke yet, but will probably do that today. I did remove the air cleaner to see if the choke was doing anything and it looks close I'll make sure tomorrow morning.

So anybody have ideas on cold start issues?

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'66 Dodge Dart

Josh,

With out the fast idle screw holding the belcrank open a little till it warms up your going to have a rough start. I would stop at the local hardware or junkyard and get another fine thread screw. Most junkyards have junk carb bins and would probably give you one. If your near Lynnwood, not that far away, maybe 20 minutes south of the Boeing plant, stop in at Joe's Carb's and get one. They are a friendly bunch and have every part you can think of......

One strong pump shot in the morning will set the fast idle cam for starting. One pump does it for my 74.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

Thanks Ted. I knew moving would force me to finally fix my missing idle screw. But I thought I could get by holding the throttle a bit while it warmed up... guess not. I'll try Joe's Carb's thanks for the info.

Also, how are the junkyards up here? Think I can find a Super Six intake and carb?

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'66 Dodge Dart

Josh P,

Years ago, before EFI, we use to get used cars from down south here in Maine on car lots. A lot of these cars suffered from what I call lazy choke syndrome…

This caused by operating a car in a warm climate where the choke never gets used much. Its moving parts get gummed up, and don’t move well.

What you have to do is clean all the choke mechanisms that move, pivot, and slide, as well as the little high idle cam, until they all move freely with no effort, and this is important: NO LUBRICANT on any choke parts. Than the choke has to be adjusted so as to snap closed smartly after an over night cool-down during a morning cold start, when the accelerator is depressed once to the floor and released.

Once the engine starts, the choke valve or big flap that covers the top of the carburetor should crack open as soon as there is vacuum, about 1/4th of an inch. After initial opening from start, the bimetal spring will, over a few minutes, open the choke valve fully.

Get in the habit of setting the choke by flooring the accelerator peddle at every cold start. This will keep all the choke linkage freely moving, and from gumming up over time.

Bill

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

To tell the truth, when I lived in LA I thought my choke was shot so it was on my list, however the move to colder climates seems to have given it a good kick in the pants. It moves very nicely just needs some adjusting as it doesn't appears to be closing as much as it should (I'll check in the morning).

I normally floor the gas before cold starts, but thanks for the tip.

On a positive note, I believe I found a place that carries the springs (or at least something close), Century Spring Corp. and my local Ace Hardware stocks them.

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'66 Dodge Dart

Josh,

Adjustment is critical, and may take a few cold mornings to fine tune it.

The choke plate has to be fully & tightly closed before cranking on a cold start for an easy quick start. Anything less will result in excessive cranking.

When you do your cold start test, manually rotating the carburetor open by hand, observe the action of the “high idle camâ€￾, see that it rotated to the highest step to produce the highest rpm. High idle on top step should be around 1500 to 1800 rpm. Depending on ambient air temperature the carburetor will automatically idle down a step at a time, as needed, when the throttle is blipped in its own sweet time.

So if it is 20 degrees on a cold start, the engine will stay at a higher idle much longer than if starting at 50 degrees, this is because of the bimetal spring sensing heat from all the castings, and water jacket as the engine continues to run.

Bill

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

Yes, we have several pick apart yards in the area. I am amazed they keep turning up. The last complete setup I found with all linkages was $200.

_________________
Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG