I scribbled some lines on the band saw pics just to get the ball rolling. Any of you head porting gurus care to offer a lil guidance to those of us interesting in porting our own SL6 head?
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| Author: | drgonzo [ Tue Aug 31, 2010 10:45 am ] |
| Post subject: | Porting for the do it yourself'r? |
I scribbled some lines on the band saw pics just to get the ball rolling. Any of you head porting gurus care to offer a lil guidance to those of us interesting in porting our own SL6 head?
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| Author: | Doc [ Tue Aug 31, 2010 11:14 am ] |
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| Author: | wjajr [ Tue Aug 31, 2010 11:30 am ] |
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There is a lot written on this “porting†subject on the site, and on the web. I ported my head last year, it was a messy time intensive project, but yielded good results after a lot of reading on the subject.. With our engines, less is more, in other words you don’t have to make mirror finished, paper thin, runner walls that would promote a water jacket breach down the road. Just clean up the casting warts, and rough spots, blend any sharp edges, and the top of the bowl where the valve seats, into smooth transitions, along with some careful gasket matching and you will be good to go. |
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| Author: | drgonzo [ Tue Aug 31, 2010 11:47 am ] |
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THANK YOU GUYS!  Just what I was after.
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| Author: | slantfin [ Tue Aug 31, 2010 3:02 pm ] |
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I had a winter in Vermont without TV, so I used a Dremel tool (like they say not to.) and this article. It came out really well. I even reduced the short side radius a bit. |
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| Author: | 70valiant [ Tue Aug 31, 2010 3:28 pm ] |
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I did my old head with a dremmel, I used a tungsten carbide cutter and chainsaw sharpening stones |
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| Author: | wjajr [ Tue Aug 31, 2010 4:17 pm ] |
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I got a Harbor Fright die grinder, and a few decent burs of various shapes & lengths made in America, and a sanding & polishing kit with different grit barrels from summit. The work went well. edited comment: I should add after reading Josh’s contribution below, that the grinder I have is electrical. I found that it needed a speed control, and I used a receptacle controlled by 15 amp simple residential lighting rheostat mounted in a double electrical box in tandem with the dimmer. That assembly is fed by a three foot length of “J†cord with a three prong plug cap. It is also what I use to control the lumen output level of the Christmas tree lights. The grinder & burs have been quit useful for other non automotive projects as well. |
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| Author: | Joshie225 [ Tue Aug 31, 2010 4:34 pm ] |
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I would not follow the orange line. If you do you're actually lowering the port and fuel droplets will hit the far side of the port rather than turning down into the cylinder. Rounding the short side radius (the lower, sharper turn in the pictures) will help the mixture turn the corner and make better use of the valve area on that side of the combustion chamber. I use a Dremel flex shaft tool that has since been discontinued, but you can usually buy Foredom flex shaft tools on EBay for a good price. It's much cheaper to run a 1/4hp electric motor than an air compressor to spin a die grinder. I also feel the variable speed foot pedal is an asset . |
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| Author: | drgonzo [ Tue Aug 31, 2010 6:21 pm ] |
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Thanks Josh, your port comment makes sense. I am just gathering information and I appreciate all the help I am getting on here. |
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