Looking at some lobes from Oregon Cam Grinding and came up with this cam.
63 Dart,
904, 3000 stall speed
3.55:1 gears
9.0:1 CR
Hyper Pak 450Holley
Clifford Headers

Intake: from Grind #819
Lobe LIft-.291"
Duration @ .050" - 219
Duration @ .020" - 248
Valve Lift: .437"
Intake centerline- 106

Exhaust: from Grind #818
Lobe LIft-.287
Duration @ .050" - 212
Duration @ .020" - 240
Valve Lift: .431"
Intake centerline- 110

LSA 108


@.050
In opens 3 closes 36
Ex opens 42 Closes -10

Those are almost stock cams, in my book. If you are trying to make some HP, go bigger. I don't consider anything under 220 @ 0.050" a performance cam for the 225. With a 3000 stall, you can easily run something in the range 226-240 @0.050". With 9.0:1 and that stall I would run the Oregon #346 as is:

234 @0.050" INT 228 @0.050" EXH 106 LSA 0.480" lift on both

Install it at 100 deg centerline.

On the other hand, you can ask anyone on this site, and they will tell you that I like bigger cams than many other folks.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

That's a pretty tame cam. It would probably work well with a stock torque converter if the compression ratio really comes in at 9:1. If you want something that idles smooth and has a lot off off-idle torque it's a good choice, but it doesn't need a 3000 RPM stall converter. If you want more power stick with that converter and bump up the cam duration and compression ratio.

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Joshua

I was trying to come up with something close to the Erson RV15 RDP. Doc suggested the 3000 stall with my 3.55 gear. Perhaps misunderstood.
I will look onto something bigger. Hmmmm.
Thanks guys.
Brad

Idle quality is not important to me. I want to buy ONE cam even if it is not optimum for my set up initially as this will be an on-going project.
That 346 grind does look good.

The Oregon #346 cam will make good power if the cylinder head flows well and nothing else is really wrong. I'd try for 10:1 compression ratio with that cam, but it will be alright with at least 9:1.

Measure the piston to deck clearance. Feeler gauges and a straight edge will do. Using that measurement along with the bore size and cylinder head CCs we can calculate the compression ratio. Well, you can too. I like the calculator on the KB pistons web site. http://www.kb-silvolite.com/

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Joshua

Cam choices can vary based on skill of tuning and preference for engine combo. Doc will recommend one cam for a combo, and Josh another, and I another. All of them could work well if the motor is set up well and tuned well. I have tried about 6-8 cams with a range of specs over the years, with different centerlines and such. Doc has tried many more.

My point is that there is not one solution, but a family of solutions.

Let the discussions continue...

Lou

_________________
Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

I understand. I have built quite a few SBC and SBF engines for street and race application. I am just drawing on the more experienced of you as I have never hot rodded a slant six.
Thanks guys.
Brad

So what are the head specs? What does it flow, what valves, etc. Also purpose, car weight, etc.
Frank
Im with Lou on the heavy cam side of things.

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Scrapple: Because a mind is a terrible thing to waste.
73 Duster - Race Car
66 Dart Wagon - DD
178" FED
82 D150
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