got the engine running u guys. how would we go about adjusting to vavles

HERE'S a discussion.

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"When you find a big kettle of crazy, it's best not to stir it." - Pointy-haired Boss

1964 Valiant V200, 225/Pushbutton 904
BBD, CAI, HEI, LBP, AC, AM/FM/USB, EIEIO

Start by doing them cold. I roll the engine over and do each cyl individually. You can add a thou to each spec if you wish.

If you are not convinced they are adjusted correctly start the engine and do them hot and running. Note what changes if any need to be made.

I bet you do them cold from that moment onward.

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Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

I still don't know why everyone thinks its so difficult to do it right with it hot and running. It's more of a pain in the ass to do it not running than running.

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64 dart GT /225
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Motor running: easier. More exciting.

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/6 '67 Barracuda convertible, electronic ignition, 4-OD, street cam, SBP KH discs, 3.55 SG 7.25" 1" t-bars. Bilstein.
340 '67 fastback, Doug Nash 5-speed.
1988 Toyota pickup work truck

i agree, once you get used to the feel of it while running and can hold the ratchet and check with the feeler gauges at the same time, you'll get it down... took me a few times to do it but it works well.

I will adjust them cold when I am breaking in a new motor or cam, or if I change the rocker arms and I know the replacements are out of whack, but doing them hot is the only we to get it done right. If I adjust them cold to break in a motor or cam, I adjust them as the motor warms up and do it again once the motor has had a chance to get good and hot.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

I just want to second what Reed mentioned. Without getting into the old cold vs hot debate, make sure the engine is "good and hot." Getting the coolant temp up generally isn't fully warmed up. It is often suggested that you take the car for a drive, run some errands, etc and then once the engine is fully warmed readjust the valve lash.

This is because the metal parts of the engine warm up slowly (especially when merely idling with the valve cover off) so if the car isn't "good and hot" you may not get an accurate adjustment.

Other tips would be to use a box wrench (I prefer the slightly longer than standard style for this) or a locking style socket wrench (my heart always skips a beat when that socket comes of the wrench). Also, keeping your idle speed lower helps keep oil from squirting out, I keep it around 550-600 RPM.

PS- I, also, enjoy adjusting hot (even if it makes no difference, thought I think it probably does). That vibration traveling up the arm is oddly comforting.

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'66 Dodge Dart

Mark me down as a "running engine adjuster".

I recently did it for the first time, and I'll never go back to the other way. Once you have it down, it's much quicker, plus you can hear the engine "talking" to you as you make improvements.

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1954 Ford, Tudor Mainline
1976 Plymouth Valiant, 4 door


www.automotive-ninja.com

As a general rule, it takes ~20 minutes of driving for the oil to fully warm to operating temperature.

Ken

Has anyone run into this when doing it running? Last time I tried it running, the adjustment was a few thousands loose compared to it not running. I don't know if it was the oil film or what. With it running I would open the adjustment just enough for the feeler gauge to fit. Stop the engine, turn the crank to the appropriate position, and the same feeler gauge would slide in and out too freely.