You will get it. But if it is in 180 out. Its a pain down low. They all
gave good advice.
Heres an easy to avoid this next time.
1 mark on manifold where advance is .
2 Mark where rotor is pointing.
3 SLOWLY lift dizzy out STOP when rotor
quits turning and MARK.
Then when you go to put back line rotor up with last mark
and when it drops in all should line up in one pass. Does for me.


lol shadetree

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brass handled wrench,bfh and a BIG screw
driver. If it aint drawn blood you aint done.

I've been cheating, I use a digital camera to snap a few pics before I pull a distributor so I can go back later and see exactly how everything was. Later I have the option of deleting the picture after I'm done, but usually I take another picture of the "after" just in case I need to go back an look at it, too.

Done this before with other wierd stuff too.

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Scott - waywardgarage.com
Why is the rum always gone?

I have to comment on Old Car Scott's post, I so agree on using an electronic camera. The electronic camera has gotten a place with my other tools when working on my car (or other things). For years I wished for a Polaroid camera to document before and after, I kicked myself on every occasion when I could have had the use for one, but the introduction of the electronic camera changed that. Taking pictures of unreachable places is my favorite, stretching your arm with a camera in it under your car to check if the muffler has a center or offset inlet, checking for rust inside places where your head don't fit, and so on. I have a cheap one, but it is nevertheless stuffed with functions I'll never use, but I can take several thousand pics of every single detail.

So, to all of you that don't have one, try it, you'll never regret!

Olaf

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Aspenized

Really the engine does not care were the rotor is as long as it is under #1 tower/wire when #1 is TDC. And then the rest of the wires are in the correct order. It does not care if #1 is next to the vacuum camber or were the pick up wire comes out or at the bottom. It was arbitrary when the engineer pointed and said "this is were number one shall be"

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50 chrysler,54 Plymouth, 64 Valiant conv 4 speed, 66 Valiant V8 wagon, 70 Challenger R/T 440+6 conv 4 speed,80 Colt, 98 Neon ACR,84 Honda V45 Magna
Taking care of 57 300C conv,48 T&C conv. Missing my 67 GTX and 36 Ply coupe

I seem to remember that /6 & V8 Mopars of that vintage all used a slot that allowed one to easily install the dist. 180 out. Once you determine TDC on the compression stroke, you just put the rotor so it points at #1 with the balancer @ TDC at you're all set (unless the outer balancer ring has slipped - I've seen a lot of that lately).

I bought a handly little whistle that screws into the #1 spark plug hole and makes it easy to tell which is the compression stroke while you're turning the engine by hand - it works quite well. I just can't offhand remember where I bought it (probabably JCW, Summit or Jegs...).

Not true.
Slant Six distributors are GEAR driven. See this picture.



It is possible,therefore,to instal the distributor in any position,and in as many places as the drive gear has teeth.

Rod

To confuse you more-you could drill the cross hole in the gear off a little bit and have a whole new field of pain trying to align the distributor .

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50 chrysler,54 Plymouth, 64 Valiant conv 4 speed, 66 Valiant V8 wagon, 70 Challenger R/T 440+6 conv 4 speed,80 Colt, 98 Neon ACR,84 Honda V45 Magna
Taking care of 57 300C conv,48 T&C conv. Missing my 67 GTX and 36 Ply coupe

If you took the distributor apart, the part that the rotor goes on to could be 180 out. Do a search cause I posted a picture showing the proper alignment.

My fool-proof method is to turn the engine over by hand until the rotor is just past the 12:00 position. When I had a shop, this was standard practice, so anyone could install it back in the correct position. Of course, you don't have this option is the distributor has already been removed.

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Chuck Rivers, Webmaster