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| Electronic Ignition help https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=42554 |
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| Author: | 64drtGt [ Wed Nov 10, 2010 11:52 am ] |
| Post subject: | Electronic Ignition help |
So my dart took a crap on me the otherday and I am almost positive its a points/condenser issue so I decided to just convert electronic. I have an electronic distributor and ignition module and the plug that plug plugs into the box but none of the other wiring. What wire goes where from the plug and what else will I need to do this? |
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| Author: | Reed [ Wed Nov 10, 2010 12:09 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Look in the article section of the site. Or, click here |
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| Author: | THOR [ Wed Nov 10, 2010 12:36 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
My first suggestion is to get the car running again before modifying it. A points system doesn't have many parts that fail, and the ones that do are cheap to replace. Check ballast resistor for battery voltage in, and around 8 volts coming out to the coil. Verify the same voltage at the coil (+) terminal. Once that is verified, check the wire going to the coil from the distributor and make sure it is good shape. Next would be to remove the distributor (mark the location of the rotor tip with a paint pen if you can). With the distributor out, perform a visual inspection. Do the points look corroded? Are they dis colored? If they look marginal, $15 should get you new points and condenser. ground the spark wire from the coil. Turn the ignition on, and while holding the distributor against the metal of the car to ground it, rotate the distributor shaft and see if the points are sparking. Double check to make sure your point gap is set at about .020". Check this with the points in the open position on the bumper on the center shaft. Once you have checked all of that, and repaired what needed repaired, you should have spark. Now inspect the cap, rotor and wires to make sure they are kosher. You should replace any marginal parts if you can. This entirely procedure takes no more than about 20 minutes if you don't need parts, or If you have parts on hand. As for conversion, you can go to a Chrysler dealership and buy the EI harness new for around $25, at least here in Oregon. Get that harness, a 4 pin ballast resistor of quality (not store brand units), and an EI distributor. Keep in mind, you cannot run EI for long if you have the old single field voltage regulator. You will need to convert to a dual field electronic voltage regulator to make the EI box last. Best of luck! ~RDE~ |
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| Author: | 64drtGt [ Wed Nov 10, 2010 2:03 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
I'm not sure what my problem is to be honest but i would like to convert it anyway. The car will start and run if I start driving it i'll get a mile or two and it will start to miss and die shortly after. I can let it sit for like 10 mins and it will start and run another mile or two. I know its not running out of fuel when this happens. |
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| Author: | THOR [ Wed Nov 10, 2010 2:07 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Sounds like the coil is the dead part. A common symptom is what you describe, where once it gets hot, it fails. Another one to look at is the ballast as they can do the same thing. ~RDE~ |
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| Author: | 64drtGt [ Wed Nov 10, 2010 2:35 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
When it did it i jumped the resitor it still would not start and the coil feels cool to the touch. What about the pertronix setups how well do they work? |
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| Author: | hellion_locdogg [ Wed Nov 10, 2010 2:38 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Sounds like a fuel prob... |
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| Author: | madmax/6 [ Wed Nov 10, 2010 2:41 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Have petronics on several cars over the years,no issues.I un ballast mine.Guzzi Mark |
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| Author: | olafla [ Wed Nov 10, 2010 4:38 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
When it stops, get to the rear of the car at once, open the fuel tank filler cap with your ear close to it, and listen. Hissing sound? Could there be vacuum in the tank because of a clogged ventilation tube? I had same symptoms, worth a check. Olaf. |
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