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Instrument cluster voltage regulator? https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=42594 |
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Author: | 19Fury63 [ Mon Nov 15, 2010 6:37 pm ] |
Post subject: | Instrument cluster voltage regulator? |
I dealt for a while with some issues with my fuel gauge and temp gauge fluctuating pretty regularly. For this reason, I don't think the gauges are bad but I am wondering if it could possibly be the voltage regulator on the back side of the instrument panel. I took the panel out and removed the voltage regulator, is it worth replacing? I was thinking of Standard Motor Products VRC601, it looks exactly like the one in there currently. Or is there a better replacement product I should look into? I see a bunch of options but would assume I need to stick with the "3 prong" style so it can fit in the circuit board. Sorry for the lengthy post, but this is my first attempt at fixing this issue and want to make sure I do it right while I have the dash torn apart for re-painting/re-finishing. Jeff |
Author: | lancer61 [ Tue Nov 16, 2010 3:45 am ] |
Post subject: | |
Stay away from the original type, those are expensive and was stone age already in the sixties, there are digital replacements to buy that just plugs in but they are also pretty expensive. If you can do a little soldering yourself the best thing is to replace it with is a 7805 http://www.allpar.com/history/mopar/electrical2.html It will only cost you a couple of bucks and you get a rock steady 5V reference voltage, it also has 3 pins, in/ground/out, you just need a capacitor to protect it, otherwise it is a direct replacement (you have solder connectors to the pins though). I have no idea about the VRC601, it does not say anything in the spec if it is electromechanical (stay away from it) or if it is using a modern voltage regulator. I would not spend $44 on it at least. |
Author: | 19Fury63 [ Tue Nov 16, 2010 5:29 am ] |
Post subject: | |
Thanks for the info. You mention a digital replacement, any idea where I could find one of these? I'm not too worried about the price as long as the quality and life of the product are up to snuff. I see that Rock Auto sells a AirTex Wells brand that looks similar to the VRC601 but from what you said I should stay away from this style of regulator right? I will be the first to admit I suck with anything electrical so I just want to do the easiest thing to get my gauges working again...seems like a direct replacement would be the easiest way. Also, how does the ground connect to the regulator? When I took it out, the ground wire came out too but I don't see at all how it connects (unless it slides in along with the ground pin into the circuit board). |
Author: | wjajr [ Tue Nov 16, 2010 5:47 am ] |
Post subject: | |
Check out this little {url=http://demonivr.com/] devil[/url]. |
Author: | 19Fury63 [ Tue Nov 16, 2010 6:04 am ] |
Post subject: | |
That's pretty cool right there, just trying to picture in my head how that will install as a replacement. With the 3-prong OEM design, don't I need to have something similar as a replacement? I really just don't know the ins and outs of applying different styles of these regulators when there is a specific spot for it on the board. |
Author: | wjajr [ Tue Nov 16, 2010 7:35 am ] |
Post subject: | |
One could change the loop connection to a spade, and just [url=http://demonivr.com/Installation.html] “plug it inâ€[/url] to the circuit board. You would need to find a way to fasten the body of the device to something to keep it from flopping around under the dash. |
Author: | 19Fury63 [ Tue Nov 16, 2010 9:12 am ] |
Post subject: | |
I actually just ended up ordering the solid state replacement from RTE...it seems to have gotten really good reviews so we'll see how it goes. I guess the grounding question doesn't really matter that much, as long as it's grounded somehow right? I could just solder the ground wire to the ground lead on the regulator and attach the other end to where it was originally on the cluster's frame. |
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