Quote: CJ,
did you grind the crank or cut and weld it to get that stroke? also wondering what pisons you are using? and how do you like it?
Paul
Well, I love it of course! Would I do it again? Read on!
This is a weld up forged crank. It's turned back to standard bearings for the slant. The local crank guy had it for four months before he had a "window" long enough to accomplish it. There was a lot of straightening involved to get it back where it needed to be with all that welding.
The ARP rod nuts cleared the block by 0.010" when I got it back. There was grinding involved for that. The bores are notched to clear as well.
Your likely going to spend somewhere in the neighborhood of $750 for the crank work alone. Don't enter into a stroker lightly. 
By the time I took delivery, my engine assembled cost $4100. I ended up spending another $400 getting the head straightened out after the machinist fixed it, and still didn't get it right.
I've found a machinist that has a lot better idea of slants now, so I could probably cut that by a bit. Still, $4k is a pretty good number for an engine like this. It's not like building a Chevy SB. I can get a pretty hot SB built for $2100. I've built pretty nice SB LA's for about that too.
The build is a long rod stroker. Pistons are H827P50MM Federal Mogul
with a compression height of 1.268"
Bore is 3.445" Going to the next oversize on these pistons puts the Bore at 3.504"
7.005" 198 rods, cleaned up and polished, and a lot of weight taken out of them. The small end is round now. 
A little more cam, and it would probably run right up to 5500 rpm with power. But it delivers on the bottom and mid beautifully with what is has!
Take a look in the FAQ under engine build matrix.
Once I get the new car together, I'll start getting serious about an A-100 pickup. The stroker engine will go into that. It'll make a seriously strong engine for that application. As it is, I've about run up as far as it's wise to go with this engine.
The metric pistons have smaller rings. In my long stroke application I've found that I get ring flutter at engine speeds over 4000 rpm. Due to the bore size, the oil control ring has a hard time dealing with large amounts of oil flowing to the back of the sump under hard acceleration. Tension of the oil ring is lower for smaller bores. With larger bores, higher pressures are possible without creating excessive wear.
Keep in mind that I'm in the deep 15's. Best of 15.02 in the quarter.
Using a Jeffery deep sump with baffles has decreased my launch oil burn considerably. It has not stopped it. I run positive seals on the valve stems.
I also went with gapless rings. They have performed well enough, but don't play well with the long stroke. At higher RPM, as I mentioned above, I get flutter. The rings don't seal consistently. Having it to do over again, I would have tossed iron in there and not worried about fancy stuff. It doesn't pay back with a stroke of this size.
0.125" off the deck, .040" off the head. 300 Ford Valves.
Look over the engine build matrix.
My new race engine will not be a stroker. The benifits of high rpm power far outweigh the few cubic inches one can gain through stroking.
Never know, I may bore it out to the 3.504" oversize and use it in the new Dragster for licensing. With the 3.50 gears, it should perform admirably in the lighter chassis.
Sorry for the long post. Hopefully it will help you in the decision making process. If your building a 4x4 a street car or tow rig, the stroker can be a good choice. Mine pulls like a nice small block two barrel rig. If your looking at a strip car, I recommend you look into something that will rev a bit higher. 
2¢
CJ
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offset grinding the crank to honda size journals.
