Just see to that the folks next door keep their cat indoors...
Olaf.
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| Rust proofing. https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=42710 |
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| Author: | Brussell [ Sat Nov 27, 2010 6:04 am ] |
| Post subject: | Rust proofing. |
Hi, So just got the shell back from the paint shop and I'm off to buy a large tin of fish oil, and some kind of long tube pump thin to get it in tight spaces and a few grommets. I have a 1967 VC Valiant, want to know those secret places to put the fish oil. apart from obvious things like the cowl, the floors, around kick panels, sills rear quarters etc. or if anyone has any places I should drill into to do this. Thanks, ben |
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| Author: | olafla [ Sat Nov 27, 2010 11:29 am ] |
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Just see to that the folks next door keep their cat indoors... Olaf. |
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| Author: | Sam Powell [ Sat Nov 27, 2010 9:01 pm ] |
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I would wipe it down right away with Captain Lees metal prep. It is the only product of its type that does not require you wash it off with water. I have used it extensively this way, and it is terrific. Then give the entire body a coat of self etching primer. You can then bondo over this. I promise you this works, and holds tight. They tell you not to bondo over paint, but it will hold, and hold well to self etching primer. I used the product sold by 3M. It looks like Mustard. It is important to get the entire body protected with the metal prep right away. The car you see here was done this away by me about ten years ago now. You can get Captain Lees from Halon Distributors. Let me know if you cannot find it, and I will get you a link. Sam |
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| Author: | Louise76 [ Sat Nov 27, 2010 9:04 pm ] |
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Isn't there something to use for corrosion proofing a car other than fish oil??? I've never done cx-proofing to a car, but in aviation there are several products on the market, such as Corrosion-X, Bo-Shield, ACF-50. Anybody out there know of any good products for cars?? (We stopped using LPS-3 on aircraft because it dries out and still corrodes, we think.) Also, we learned, only apply the treatment after your new paint has fully cured, as it will wick all over and drip for months. |
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| Author: | Sam Powell [ Mon Nov 29, 2010 4:24 am ] |
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Sorry, I just realized I miss-read your original post. Your paint is all done. So, my comments are not appropriate at all. For some reason I thought you were getting a stripped shell back. I was picturing sand blasting maybe. For anybody starting with a stripped shell, my comments are spot on. As to your real question, just look at where these cars rusted over the years. Any place sheet metal comes together in multiple panels and is overlapped and spot welded are the prime culprits. Dirt and moisture gets trapped between the layers and rust is the result. The worst spot in this way is the area right behind the door openings down at the rocker panels in front of and then again behind the rear wheel openings. YOu could take out all the plastic plugs and rust proof in there. Most of these go clear throughm but some give you access to inner areas. One place rust is common is the quarter panels, or course. Rust starts where the inner and outer panels come together down low. The spot welds create the first corrosion because of the flux used, and then it just grows and grows. But another reasons rust grows there is dirt and junk falling down in there from the trunk. People would haul mulch bags for instance, and mulch would collect down in there and hold moisture. If there is any way to seal that up that didn't compromise the intentions of your restoration, I would do it. On Modern cars those parts are all plastic. The same goes for the splash shields in the front fender. I installed the plastic ones from later A body cars,which also saves a couple of pounds. I also got plastic inner fenders from another junk yard car and cut them to fit the Dart. This keeps dirt and moisture from splasing up in between the inner and outer front fender bolting surfaces. Sorry about the misunderstanding. Keep us informed, and I will try to read more carefully next time. Sam |
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| Author: | BUCKET 636 [ Tue Nov 30, 2010 12:40 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
I used Lanolin oil on mine,you don't get that nasty fish smell on hot days. I f your hood lining isn't installed yet,make sure you give the C pillars and up along the roof channels (inside) a good spray. Also,when you put your C pillar moulds back on,dab a bit of caulking compound around each pin,it stops water getting in the holes,where as the little foam gaskets tend to leak after a while. the caulking compound will squish out but can be wiped off with methylated spirits or prepsol,which won't affect you paintwork. |
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| Author: | THOR [ Tue Nov 30, 2010 1:08 pm ] |
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Just for reference concerning the rear quarters since you can access the easily from the trunk; Puegeot (used to?) use(s) heated wax in their quarter panels, and any area that they can fill with a liquid, to prevent any moisture buildup, to keep debris from falling down inside, and for sound deadening. I am planning to try this when I do the quarters on the '65, and I am going to try this on the scamp as well, though I need to clean as much junk from there as I can beforehand, since it isn't rusty like the Dart and doesn't need replacement quarters. .02 ~RDE~ |
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| Author: | wjajr [ Thu Dec 02, 2010 8:45 am ] |
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Fish oil contains Omega 3 which is an antioxidant… Hummm, that’s a new twist on rust control. Why fish oil? |
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| Author: | Brussell [ Thu Dec 02, 2010 4:10 pm ] |
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well rust is another name for oxidation right? Fish oil is a preventative, put it on the un-oxidated surface etc, and it will cover it and dry. it will remove moisture from that area. and prevent water from getting to that area as well. sorry i can't be of more help. I like the wax idea, think that would be great for the rear quarters. |
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| Author: | volaredon [ Thu Dec 02, 2010 6:15 pm ] |
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I'm neck deep into a different project; a utility trailer to haul my Harley golf cart on, my lawn equip, and maybe an occasional swap meet run; I have it all welded together now, and I sandblasted it before priming it with Rustoleum "rusty metal Primer"; Yeah, I know; not many would think of doing a Rustoleum paint job on a car (especially one intended to "show" well and not be laughed out of "cruise nights") and I know, my project is "only" a trailer; BUT I mention this, related to the comments on "fish oil", higher up in this thread. I found it interesting when I found out that this Primer still contains Fish oil; this fact surprised me! and probably why it lifts/peels/cracks if you rush the 24 hr recoat time they call for. If you do the recoat as they say, it works fine. |
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| Author: | zorg [ Thu Dec 02, 2010 9:55 pm ] |
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Quote: ...priming it with Rustoleum "rusty metal Primer"... I found it interesting when I found out that this Primer still contains Fish oil; this fact surprised me! and probably why it lifts/peels/cracks if you rush the 24 hr recoat time they call for...
That is also why it does not play nicely with most other types of paint...Volaredon, Do you still need any parts for that Harley golf cart? I just noticed one of my local wrecking yards has a couple of those in the corner... Interesting topic, Brussell. I've coated most of the areas I can access with Rust Bullet, but would like to do something about all the hidden areas as well. |
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| Author: | Brussell [ Fri Dec 03, 2010 8:30 am ] |
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Maybe it's just where I'm from, but everyone here (Aussie land) Just says Fish oil it, you can never have too much. and then air the car to kill the smell (awful smell) and that's all I hear. I got my shell back fully painted on the outside and the boss (nice old fella) said use fish oil and plenty of it wherever you can get it, use a long thing pipe as well to get into cowls and the sills etc. And when I walk into my repco and supercheap etc it's all just fishoil. |
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| Author: | Slanted Opinion [ Sat Dec 04, 2010 4:35 am ] |
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Around here (New England, USA) some places will spray your car with warm motor oil. It really works wonders for preserving the body. Don't forget to spray inside the door panels. Drill a hole just underneath the latch mechanism, spray in the oil (they do it under pressure here) so it coats the bottom inside of the door, then use a plastic plug to seal the hole. Of course, with a shell, you can forgo the drilling the hole part.  - Mac |
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| Author: | Romeo Furio [ Sat Dec 04, 2010 7:53 am ] |
| Post subject: | rust proofing |
I too remember the motor oil trick,very messy, drips for days,but it works.Dust and dirt magnet. Haven't heard about that since the 70's. |
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| Author: | Greg Ondayko [ Tue Dec 07, 2010 2:27 pm ] |
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I have a 5 gal bucket of drained motor oil... I put it into the rustproofing gun and spray away..... It does form a kind of dust rustproofing but it's better then rust and rot.. I have dirven the same 1979 Volare duster on the salty winter roads of the pittsburgh area for 16 years. (every winter) And the body has a lot of pimples but no major cancer due to my motor oil regimen. Greg |
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