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PostPosted: Wed Dec 15, 2010 3:13 am 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Sun Dec 14, 2008 12:05 am
Posts: 35
Car Model:
I have just fixed the manifold problem (bad gasket). I now have a heavy hesitation giving the car gas under speed, but on releasing the gas the car runs fine.
Idles good but giving the motor gas while running down the road, it has a big miss(I think) never had this with the bad manifold. Feels like it will not take the gas(to much? gas that is?)
Would it be the timing or should I look at the carb. Car did run ok before the fix, just real loud and bad mpg and hp. Choke I think is ok, I looked at this one first. I will try to go over the carb, may just be set for the car with the bad manifold gasket. (LOTS OF LEAKS)

I was plying with it for 3 months before the fix(the carb). I did drive it 162.9 miles last night to get to work. I am going to spend the next 3 days at my sisters so I am limited with the tools that I have with me. any info or help where to look would be great. Thanks for this sight, I would have never fix the car my self with out the info hear !!!! Thanks so much. 8)

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1930 Jordan Great Line "90", 1951 Chrysler Saratoga,1953 Plymouth, 1971 Honda CB 500 "4", 1973 Honda CB 350, 1975 Honda CB 500 twin, 1988 Honda Shadow 1340, 1975 Dodge Dart Custom, 1992 Dodge 2500 turbo truck,1975 Schwinn Collgate 5sp.


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 15, 2010 8:47 am 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 9:20 pm
Posts: 13281
Location: Fircrest, WA
Car Model: 76 D100
What is your vacuum reading at idle? Your symptoms indicate; (a) insufficient or no accelerator pump shot; (b) big vacuum leak; or (c) both.

Since you just swapped the intake manifold gasket, I would start by verifying that it was installed correctly and that the intake manifold isn't leaking at the head.

_________________
Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 15, 2010 8:53 am 
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EFI Slant 6
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Joined: Mon Aug 24, 2009 5:19 pm
Posts: 310
Location: New Hampshire
Car Model:
Which carb do you have? Holley or Carter? Can you look down the carbs throat and verify the gas does squirt when you open the throttle?

_________________
50 chrysler,54 Plymouth, 64 Valiant conv 4 speed, 66 Valiant V8 wagon, 70 Challenger R/T 440+6 conv 4 speed,80 Colt, 98 Neon ACR,84 Honda V45 Magna
Taking care of 57 300C conv,48 T&C conv. Missing my 67 GTX and 36 Ply coupe


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 15, 2010 10:40 pm 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Sun Dec 14, 2008 12:05 am
Posts: 35
Car Model:
I have a holley carb 1945 :( , I had to use the old gasket for the egr valve, but I am making a new one tonight out of Boiler gasket. Good for 890- 1000 temps. I think it may be a vacuum leak some where in there, and I don't have a vacuum tool that I can use with me (can only carry so much crap with me). I played with the carb some more this AM and it ideals much smoother and could now get it set to 770-790 rpm, but I still think it is still using to much gas,main jet may be out to much or just bad. Used it to get to work 13 miles and still had acceleration problem!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I have a carb with me that needs to be rebuilt, and do have the kit with me (thank God). I will check the vacuum thing first. It is cold to, my car did use more gas when it got into the single digits (I have to account for that on the gas usage). I think that the vac advance on the distributor is ok, I pulled the line off the carb for it and sucked on the line and the rpm's came up some so it SEAMS to be working :oops: All the hoses are tight and where they should be, rechecked all of that. The manifolds are good and flat with no warpage or pitting (had the speed shop check this for $41.00) They came out looking like new after I did blasting and paint. Did use new hardware also, no broken bolts or studs in head. What would be the best way to check leak at the head? starting fluid?? :? I did get someone I work with bring in a timing-light today for me. I will check this also, after a new dis cap and rotor. well need to get back to work let you know how it go's.

_________________
1930 Jordan Great Line "90", 1951 Chrysler Saratoga,1953 Plymouth, 1971 Honda CB 500 "4", 1973 Honda CB 350, 1975 Honda CB 500 twin, 1988 Honda Shadow 1340, 1975 Dodge Dart Custom, 1992 Dodge 2500 turbo truck,1975 Schwinn Collgate 5sp.


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 15, 2010 10:46 pm 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Sun Dec 14, 2008 12:05 am
Posts: 35
Car Model:
On a nother note the Hell with it ALL and go back to horse buggy days!!!!!!!

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1930 Jordan Great Line "90", 1951 Chrysler Saratoga,1953 Plymouth, 1971 Honda CB 500 "4", 1973 Honda CB 350, 1975 Honda CB 500 twin, 1988 Honda Shadow 1340, 1975 Dodge Dart Custom, 1992 Dodge 2500 turbo truck,1975 Schwinn Collgate 5sp.


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 16, 2010 2:48 am 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2006 4:57 am
Posts: 1567
Location: Oslo, Norway
Car Model:
You should see the FAQ for guidance, and adjust your valves.
(BTW, nobody liked to waddle through horsesh_t every day in the 'good' old days!)

Olaf.

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Aspenized


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 16, 2010 6:19 am 
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Turbo Slant 6

Joined: Tue Dec 12, 2006 7:44 pm
Posts: 792
Location: New England
Car Model:
Quote:
What would be the best way to check leak at the head? starting fluid?? :?
I wouldn't necessarily use ether to check for vacuum leaks, although it would probably work. Some use an unlit propane torch, if you want some level of excitement. Carb cleaner or penetrating oil are sometimes used to check for vacuum leaks. If the RPMs increase with the spray (or gas) in a particular location, that's where to look for the leak.
As was suggested, look down into the carb while car is not running, and work the throttle. You should see a shot of gas from the accelerator pump shoot into the carb.

_________________
/6 '67 Barracuda convertible, electronic ignition, 4-OD, street cam, SBP KH discs, 3.55 SG 7.25" 1" t-bars. Bilstein.
340 '67 fastback, Doug Nash 5-speed.
1988 Toyota pickup work truck


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 17, 2010 3:00 am 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Sun Dec 14, 2008 12:05 am
Posts: 35
Car Model:
Found the problem !!!!!!! :shock: , the gasket under the carb was the old one and it was the wrong way around (put the new one on), and there is a fitting on the carb for one of the vac hose is sloppy (new carb time). But I found the dammed problem. I just need to re-adjust the timing, tweak out the carb gas, idle. MAN IT RUNS A LOT BETTER, no motor jiggle (just like the V16 Cads and V12 Packards my friend has) nice and smoooooooth.

This car now MOVES OUT!! Nice power.
I now hear the alt is making noise now, could never hear it before (motor made to MUCH BARK) :D I now can put a working radio in and will hear the thing!! I used starting fluid and the car died at the carb mount. That was it. I hope I will get better than 17mpg this winter. :?

Now off to the muffler shop for a new muffler and it will be like a new BMW :lol: I now can get back to my Plymouth Restoration. I just picked up a new (to me) 1953 Plymouth ( #2 1953, and car #6 it in the collection) with no motor, trans, or rear end. I am thinking of putting the super six set in it (1976 Plymouth items). Motor has 6,789 miles on it. To many things to do :oops:
There is a real nice 1947 Cad and 1953,1956 Packards down the road from me. Only if I had more inside space and much more free time to my self!!!

_________________
1930 Jordan Great Line "90", 1951 Chrysler Saratoga,1953 Plymouth, 1971 Honda CB 500 "4", 1973 Honda CB 350, 1975 Honda CB 500 twin, 1988 Honda Shadow 1340, 1975 Dodge Dart Custom, 1992 Dodge 2500 turbo truck,1975 Schwinn Collgate 5sp.


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