http://neofast.net/users/mark/pics/w150/DSCN0456.JPG

That's a very big picture, so I did not embed.

http://neofast.net/users/mark/pics/w150/DSCN0456.JPG

That's a new acquisition for me, it's an 81 W150, slant six, and 4 speed. I'm trying to get it ready for harsh road and mild off-roading use for business and fun. [/img]

Holley 1945. Manual and training video HERE

Thanks. After looking over the pdf, I've decided that this one is unfixable, due to being jetted wrong and too much wear in the throttle shaft.

I hate being stuck like this... haven't the money to do the EFI / Megasquirt yet, but need the truck...

Personally, I say get your current carb working as good as possible, then go find a good condition Holley 1920, rebuild the 1920, and then wait a bit before investing in EFI. Megasquirt is an interesting option, but, in my opinion, it is a PITA to tune. Plus, it is a throttle body injection system, which isn't even the "best" efi system out there. I would hold out to get a MAF multi-point system. But, it's your truck.

I believe you can still get different jets for the Holley 1945 and you can have the throttle shaft rebushed.

You can have a carb shop clean and rebush the throttle shaft.
Jets are the same for the Holley 2300/4150/4160 carbs as they are for the Holley 1920/1945 (unless you have a speed shop close by to buy 1 jet from, you will have to order a pair at a time).

I think going TBI is a good first step as it allows you to work with something that already similar with your current setup and it'd be easier to tech down if a problem occurs...going straight to MPEFI is a big jump and I will always suspect that it will take a fair amount of dyno time to get the most out of the fuel and timing map.


-D.Idiot

There is NOBODY in my area that "does carbs" anymore. No parts, no experience, nothing. Holley and I are strangers, but Carter and I are good friends. I think I'll just wait for the TBI setup.

The holley is far too rich at higher throttle openings, and at idle, it has wildly varying mixtures across the cylinders, meaning some are too rich, some too lean, and the best it'll do is a loping chug, you can't get it anywhere near a smooth, or even "smoothish" idle. As you move the idle mixture screw, the idle quality changes little except at the far ends, in the middle of the mixture range, it just changes which cylinders miss irregularly. The idle reminds me of my old big Isky cam slant six, which idled with a rolling lope, and I'm sure this engine does NOT have a big cam, though I suppose anything is possible, since I have no history of either truck or engine.

There could be a compression problem, but so far, I can't tell, as the engine runs quite good at moderate throttle openings, and it obviously has at least some compression on all cylinders (I lack a compression gauge). It doesn't act like it, nor sound like it has a valve problem. And, even with the horrendously rich situation at higher throttle openings, it still gets 15 or so on the highway.