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PostPosted: Sun Dec 19, 2010 7:42 pm 
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TBI Slant 6
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Joined: Wed Apr 25, 2007 2:16 pm
Posts: 100
Location: Tucson, AZ
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I'm doing the Super Six upgrade with a Weber carb. It appears I'm going to need remove the stock cable and housing and replace it with a longer, rerouted aftermarket one. My problem: I can't tell what exactly is holding the stock cable housing in place. Nothing is threaded or bolted in place. My best guess is that there's some plastic retaining clip. If that's the case, I can't see how I'm going to get it out without breaking it. But that's just a guess. Who has experience with this? Much thanks.

J.R.
'68 Dart 270


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 20, 2010 6:12 am 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sat Feb 16, 2008 1:25 pm
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Location: Downeast Maine
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JR,

If is like a ‘67 suspended peddle and round cable end housing, the cable is held in place with a “Câ€￾ clip or like on the cockpit side of the fire wall. A handy spot for such a little device…

Here is a photo of a newer, longer, cable from a “Kâ€￾ car that I was going to use if I had turned my Holley 390 90degrees. It is the same design as the late sixties cable, except made of plastic. By the way, search Rock Auto for different length cables from Chrysler vans & K cars with 2.2 & 2.6 engines, there is several ready made lengths that can be adapted to your car. These cables have the standard Chrysler cable end to mate with the carburetor.

Disconnect the cable from the carburetor, than at the gas peddle, remove a little plastic keeper which prevents the small ball on the cable’s end from falling out of its slot, and disconnect the cable from the peddle. You should be able to see some type of clip securing the cable’s metal housing to the fire wall.

[img]http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/mm87/wjajr/Dart%20Engine/100_1342.jpg[/img]

Bill

_________________
67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 20, 2010 11:20 am 
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TBI Slant 6
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Joined: Wed Apr 25, 2007 2:16 pm
Posts: 100
Location: Tucson, AZ
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Thanks, Bill. As it turned out, I figured it out. It was another case of me narrowly thinking it must work a certain way, when, in fact, it worked another. I located the nuts on the firewall, pulled the whole pedal assembly and saw what you described above. I went to a local hot rod shop and found an aftermarket setup twice as long as the one on the car. Should work out nice once it's all together. Thanks again.


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