OK- I am replacing the rectifier bridge on a brand F alternator but I need some help. Specifically, when i go to solder the armature windings to the rectifier bridge, my solder clumps up then falls off. It doesn't stick to the wires or the metal clips of the rectifier bridge.

What the heck am I doing wrong? I admit I took electronics classes in high school and was reasonably proficient, but that was about 14 years ago. Can someone give me a primer on basic soldering technique? Should I be using rosin cored lead-free solder for an alternator? What thickness and type of solder and soldering iron should I be using?

Sounds to me like you are not getting enough heat into the components you are trying to connect. Or there is a "coating" on the conection. Most likely not enough heat. Rosin core is the only thing you should use on an electrical connection, acid core will cause corrosion issues. The solder "clumping" is a sign of a "cold" joint. I would try and use a soldering "gun" and not an iron, most will not create enough heat fast enough to make a good union with as much of a heat sink as you are trying to do. The rest of the armature winding is sucking up the heat and not letting it get hot enough.

I hope this helps.

Mike

_________________

An officialis Tyrde-Browne Racing membrum

X2 on the coating. In order for the windings to be insulated from each other, a coating is applied to the wire. It is some nasty, tenacious stuff.

If your still fighting with it when it's time to come retreive your Christmas Present, and drop off mine, I have a gun and some appropriate solder.

We'll drag Mike into the mess and have him solder it up!

Something that large I may be able to do, but micro-soldering is in my past I'm afraid. My eyes can't deal with it, even with progressive lenses and a magnifying glass....

I trained in high reliability soldering. Such a pain to get old...

CJ

_________________
Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

Thanks. I scraped the wires down to shiny copper but the solder still isn't sticking. At this point, I suspect my soldering iron is caput. It is so old the tip has burned almost completely away.

Thanks for the offer Ceej, but I actually am fixing this alt for the rig I am driving down there. I'll make a trip to Sears and get a new good quality 40 watt iron next week and try again.

You might be better with a 2 stage (wattage) gun.
The copper wire will really suck the heat.

Richard

_________________
Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

Thanks. I'll see what is on sale in the after-Chrustmas sales and get the best I can find/afford. I'm tired of cheap tools.

You need a higher wattage gun that's triggered controlled.

Also, additional flux may help.

_________________
Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

Reed,

Big clunky soldering irons are ok for sheet metal and stained glass, low watt dinky pencil irons are fine for circuit boards, but to solder wire of any heft #18 – 8 gage you need a 100/140Watt Weller soldering gun, and some good old “eco terrorâ€￾ lead/tin rosin core solder. Lead free & silver solder will work, but they require higher heat, higher cleaning standards, and have different, (I think undesirable) flow characteristics compared to the old lead formulations.

As others have stated, you haven’t been getting your joint hot enough, 140 watts will do the job in a few seconds. Mechanically** clean each surface to be soldered, twist or other wise connect the two components so that they won’t fall apart than solder’em up. Once the solder flows shinny, without moving the joint, remove heat and let cool.

I have been using a [url=http://www.shop.com/Weller+8200+Universal+Soldering+Gun+-386061681-o+.xhtml] Weller gun[/url] for over forty years for this kind of work, they are the best for automotive & house wiring, and not too expensive at around 30 bucks. It is a must have tool…

** cleaning with emery paper, or by scraping until shiny. Rosin will finish the cleaning process chemically when it is heated, and doesn’t cause corrosion like an acid flux will.

Bill

_________________
67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

Sears ? Quality? No get a Weller dual range gun. I have used one for decades and no problems. Just keep your nuts tight.

_________________
50 chrysler,54 Plymouth, 64 Valiant conv 4 speed, 66 Valiant V8 wagon, 70 Challenger R/T 440+6 conv 4 speed,80 Colt, 98 Neon ACR,84 Honda V45 Magna
Taking care of 57 300C conv,48 T&C conv. Missing my 67 GTX and 36 Ply coupe

That's what I am thinking. Sears sells Weller brand. I am also going to troll Craigslist.