My 83 Dodge van has the electric rear defroster grid on the back window. It doesn't work right now because one of the terminals has ripped away from the glass. In the past on other vehicles, I have had middling success repairing these terminals used those bottles of rust-colored "electric grid repair liquid" like you can order from JC Whitney.

Is there a better way/better product?

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

Hair Dryers...............

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

There is a paint on substance that you can use to: 1 - repair individual grid lines, and 2 - re-attach broken off connectors. I used some when I was in college.

I will see if I can find said magic substance.

~RDE~

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1984 D100 Shorty Custom
Certified Auto Appraiser - RevItUp Classic Appraisals
President - Cherry City Bombers CC
Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

Does it come in a dinky little bottle with the paintbrush attached tot eh cap? If so, I am pretty sure that is what I have used in the past too. I was just wondering if anyone knew of any other way.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

I'm trying to remember where I saw a "band-aid" type repair for that recently. I believe it was a sticker with a small wire embedded across it (ish). NAPA doesn't show it online, but I periodically spend a bit of time at the counter there, so perhaps that's where it was?

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i would also be intrested in this magic liquid repair, rear defrost ain't worked in years lol,

-Mike

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I am the Guardian, I hate helos, everything leaks.......

I may be wrong, but I think it used to be a Mopar part number for that bottle, maybe it still is?

Olaf.

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Aspenized

I am going to try some conductive epoxy. I'm checking the local Home Depot tomorrow to see if they stock any.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

Reed, If you have a later model Factory Service manual, for any Mopar, I'm pretty sure it lists a procedure for repairing the grid. All my FSM are too old.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

I have the correct 1983 FSM for the van, but I didn't think to look there. D'OH! I'll look it up and see what it says. However, at this point I don't need to repair the grid, I need to reattach the terminal on the side of the grid.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

If the glass is still good (which it is in my case), you might want to try to completely remove the defrost grid and apply a brand new one. A friend of mine who worked in auto glass for many years recommended I try one of these kits for my cars. I haven't yet, so I can't say yay or nay on whether they work, but it's an option to investigate. I have to fix the lift gate on my truck anyway, so the glass will be coming out and while it's out I'll redo the defroster.

http://www.frostfighter.com/prt26STK.htm

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'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me

Thanks. I actually bought one of those for my brother's van, but I haven't installed it yet.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

You could try a "trace pen" from an electronics store. It is a gel pen that has a conductive paint in it. I have repaired broken traces on circuit boards so it should work on glass. They are about 6 bucks.

I've used those after-market grid kits, the kind you buy to install on a window that previously never had the electric defrost grid option. I used to buy them from J.C. Whitney, but they no longer carry the kits. The last two I bought on line. I don't think I'll buy them any more. Even being VERY careful to follow instructions, the grid wires and side bars tend to pull away from the glass within a few months. Generally, the longest useful life I've gotten from them is about 3 years. They do work, but not for long. I think the adhesives that they were manufactured with are old school , or the kits are old (NOS) as is the adhesive. I'm going back to factory blowers on our cars. That's my 2 cents worth.

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"Louise", a 1976 Dart Custom project, (now sadly reverted to being just an "organ donor" to our other project Darts.)