First time assembly of oil pan to block and upon test fitting, I'm getting paranoid, I hate leaks. It looks like three different gaskets are fighting for the same real estate, not sure if I should trim something. I'm using the gaskets from a std Felpro engine set and the info shown on the forum here.





This is the area here and it looks like the side tabs of the rear main seal inserts will split the cork pan gasket, not sure if I'm overlooking or over thinking something, but it sure looks like it will seal better if the little extension tabs from the main seal are cut off. I see that the directions call for letting the sealer set up before tightening but I'm not good at praying.

Any opinions?

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1966 Coronet Deluxe

Leave all the tabs in school we built a Chevy 350 and ran it on a synopsis. Above 3500rpm there was a massive oil leak where the tab was trimmed.

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Leela: 1970 Dart 225 CID
Coulmn Shift TorqueFlite
7 1/4" Axle 2.76 Gears

Go ahead and save that weird car, the sedan, the 6 cylinder, the C-Body. If you want a big block musclecar and that's all you care about, your missing the point.

Do not trim the tabs and lay the cork pan rail gaskets over the top of them, along with a little sealer.
Over-lap is OK at this "joint".
DD

I know this is an old post and I have probably assembled about a dozen engines with these tabs in place; But I always wonder the same thing. Why are they there? It seems they would split the cork gasket or at least hold the pan up more in that location. And with the great silicones that we have available today, it would seem that it would seal well without them. Someone straighten me out please.

Maybe that tab helps to "lock" the cork in place?

Anyone ever tried it without them? Probably and it didn't work!

Thanks

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

I followed DD's instructions, http://www.slantsix.org/articles/gasket ... n-seal.htm, to the letter. One key is, as he describes, to let the sealant set up good before moving on to next steps. I had no pan leaks whatsoever, just be patient and take your time.

I glued down the cork, put sealant under the rubber blocks etc. as DD says, and let that set up overnight (no sealant on between rubber gasket and timing cover or rubber gasket and rear seal cap, not needed and will make your rubber squeeze out). So, effectively I sealed the block side of the gasket to the block, then later put the pan on in a second sealing step. This actually helps prevent gasket squeezing out from between the surfaces, first because the block side is well set and won't move, and second because you let the pan side sealant set up pretty good before bolting it down. You can lay the pan down if you want, but don't tighten the bolts right away, I waited for an hour or so before tightening it down - no leaks.

I think the cork pretty much molds over those tabs and partly the tab dents into the cork, not much chance the cork would split.

Brian

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https://tinyurl.com/yynpj4v2

I think Rick is correct, the tabs are likely there to keep the cork from moving. I doubt they waited patiently during assembly at the factory, too many slants to move along that assembly line in a short time....we should consider what conditions they were under during assembly in a fast paced scenario vs what we can do with more time.

b

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https://tinyurl.com/yynpj4v2

I use 3M to hold down the cork gasket and cut the rubber tap flush with the cork. then fill in both sides of the rubber tab with silicone and allow it to firm up before bolting the pan down. No leaks and I have done it this way numerous times.

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62 Val, 66 Dart, 16 Ram 2500 Mega