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Body Deadener
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Author:  Brussell [ Sat Jan 01, 2011 8:16 pm ]
Post subject:  Body Deadener
Hey, so I'm at a stage where I've pulled out all the carpet and seats and I've been killing any surface rust and putting body deadener all over the inside of the car anywhere possible to reduce in car sound.

I'll have a denser underlay when I put the carpet back in as well

Is this going to work or am I just kidding myself...? What do you guys do...?
Author:  emsvitil [ Sun Jan 02, 2011 1:59 am ]
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I don't think it will hurt..........
Author:  70valiant [ Sun Jan 02, 2011 5:59 am ]
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I have way more wind noise than road noise in my cars. Door weather stripping would help that.
Author:  WhaleMstr [ Sun Jan 02, 2011 7:40 am ]
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I'd like to know too!
I have way more sheet metal flapping than I like! :?

lol
Author:  65CrewCabPW [ Sun Jan 02, 2011 10:58 am ]
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Here are some of the common things I've run across for sound deadeners. I can't vouch for how good they are, as I haven't gotten to try them yet. I will be, sometime over this next year, but as of yet, no.

some of the options:

http://www.quietcar.net/

http://www.b-quiet.com/index.html

http://www.fatmat.com/

http://www.quietride.com/

And these guys have new carpet kits at good prices, and you can get an option of being mass-backed, meaning they're good sound insulation as well.

http://www.auto-interior.com/

I'm gonna add a bunch of soundproofing to my W150, to make it less fatiguing to drive. But, that's down the road a ways. One of the things I am going to be using, is a whole carpet kit from there, along with some spray on noise reducer, some mat insulation, new door seals, etc.
Author:  65CrewCabPW [ Sun Jan 02, 2011 11:03 am ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
I'd like to know too!
I have way more sheet metal flapping than I like! :?

lol
That van will respond very well to adding mass backed carpet covering the floor, and spraying the walls and ceiling and floor ( under the carpet ) with the liquid sound deadener. Both fatmat and b-quiet have self adhesive sheets you can use around the doghouse to quiet the din from the motor...

Oh, I almost forgot... At least one of the liquids is grease, gas, and oil proof, and can be sprayed into several layers on the INSIDE of the engine cover, to stop the sound from getting to it in the first place.
Author:  65CrewCabPW [ Sun Jan 02, 2011 11:18 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Body Deadener
Quote:

Is this going to work or am I just kidding myself...?
Yes, it will. I would suggest, before you put the interior back in, that you find some tutorials on soundproofing.

I know there's some on youtube that are pretty good. I've seen some that explain the various sources of noise and how to specifically counteract them.

For instance, the firewall should be treated with the spray on stuff both inside and out (yes, some of it will take the heat), and then a layer of mass backed vinyl, and then a carpet kit with mass backing - or there's some heat/sound barrier combos to use. Broad areas of flat or nearly flat metal that are horizontal can have some of the "conforming" dampener materials laid on them. If you have an opening between the trunk and interior, you can put in a sound block, consisting of a metal or wood solid obstruction, plus reflective on the outside, and then damping and blocking materials on the inside.

I don't know what car you have, but my 74 Dart had nothing but a small cardboard insert between the passenger compartment and the trunk. And the hatch-like rear window opening let the noise in big time, and the seats did nill for blocking noise. In that case, you can add blocking, and soundproof the trunk, as well.

In my 93 dodge diesel, the majority of cabin noise comes in from the floor and the flat area behind seat (club cab) and if I ever get the chance, I'll add material there, to quiet it down.

Take pictures of what you've done and show us, would ya? We'd love see it and learn from it once it's done.
Author:  64 Convert [ Sun Jan 02, 2011 2:10 pm ]
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When I restored my '73 D100, I put Fatmat on every inside surface before installing panels and carpeting. I also doubled-up on carpet padding and carpeted the walls behind the seat. Except for impossible-to-completely-remove wind noise, it's now almost as quiet as a new truck.
Author:  65CrewCabPW [ Mon Jan 03, 2011 1:25 am ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
When I restored my '73 D100, I put Fatmat on every inside surface before installing panels and carpeting. I also doubled-up on carpet padding and carpeted the walls behind the seat. Except for impossible-to-completely-remove wind noise, it's now almost as quiet as a new truck.
Oh! Nice! That's kind of what I had in mind for mine, but I had some question as to how much I was spending vs how much it improved things.

Did you do anything to do the doors? What about the firewall behind the heater and the dash? Did you change anything on the engine side of the firewall?

My transmission (4 speed) is pretty noisy in lower gears. Any ideas? The sound radiates from the shifter and tower it goes into.
Author:  Brussell [ Mon Jan 03, 2011 7:36 am ]
Post subject: 
After doing a little more research, I've decided I'll use deadener and rubber and a little bit of wood and sealant to sound proof should be able to do the entire car for less than $100 AUD with decent returns.

In a little more depth

My fire wall has the metal, paint, insulation and the 'fire protective rubber'. I will be spraying a thick layer of deadener on the insulation, I will then be putting a layer of rubber, I will the seal all this with thick layers of deadener. and then the fire retardant rubber.

Between the rear seat and the boot was just the seat and a layer of what looks like some kind of cardboard/rubber. I'll be swapping this with some ply wood. And I will trim rubber to the same shape and attach it to the ply.
The ply wood will be deadened, as will the entire boot area that can't be seen by the naked eye once back together.

Under the carpet, I have deadened the floor. and will be using high density carpet underlay. I will also use rubber possibly around the transmission drive line...? Depends how well I can make it fit. the underlay will again have deadener on it (Just a thin layer)

For the doors all I could think of was more (you guessed it) deadener and either having a more dense material for the door cards. or a layer of rubber between the door card and the doors. (Anyone have any ideas here)???

Between the rear seat and the floor there will be extra high density rubber and underlay etc.

Any other nook and cranny that could cause the slightest echo or let sound in will be sealed up, and deadened or padded etc.

Hopefully I'll be able to get photos up of this process might not be for a while.

If anyone has any ideas I'm keen to learn!
Author:  65CrewCabPW [ Mon Jan 03, 2011 9:47 am ]
Post subject: 
Quote:

Between the rear seat and the boot was just the seat and a layer of what looks like some kind of cardboard/rubber. I'll be swapping this with some ply wood. And I will trim rubber to the same shape and attach it to the ply.
The ply wood will be deadened, as will the entire boot area that can't be seen by the naked eye once back together.
For your barrier made of plywood... Use the sound deadener barrier on the outside, and the inside, but make the plywood TWO layers and use something called 'green glue' to hold the two layers together. It is special glue designed to isolate the two peices of plywood from each other, in terms of sound.

http://www.greengluecompany.com/

I presume you can get this or its equivalent in ozzy land.
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