I have a 1987 Dodge D150 904 auto lean burn with a shot carb (throttle shaft bushing VERY worn) and bad timing chain (5-10 degrees of slop). I have finally collected the following parts and will be replacing in a hopefully short span of time in vehicle. What I need to know is what sequence would be best for tuning without confusion.

fuel pump (airtex)
water pump/thermostat/heater hose
carb (new 1bbl 1945 without idle solenoid and feedback mechanisms)
timing set (double roller JP)
ECU/coil/ballast (mopar orange box/msd blaster 2 and ballast it comes with)

I also do not know where to source my ignition start and run wires from.. Are they specific wires on the two lean burn connecters or should I splice them somewhere more convenient? I recently got a FSM for my 87' mostly for wiring diagrams but it is hard to make sense of them. I've located a "run" specific wire at various junctions, but can't find anything for start but "run and start" wire.

My final question is that my upper heater hose has some sort of vacuum device spliced in halfway between the heater core and water pump. It looks like a 4 inch diameter 2 inch tall circular device with a vacuum line connecting in its center. Does anybody know what this is and if it is important? Truck had a/c but have since removed compressor/condenser/plumbing.

Thank you in advance.

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1987 Dodge D150 Shortbox /6 904 auto
1982 Dodge D150 Longbox /6 833OD 4spd

Hi Slant6AK.
The device on your heater hose is a cut-off valve, it came on cars/trucks with A/C. On a non-A/C model, the heater element inside the cab is usually fed a constant supply of hot water, and there are air doors in the heater package, that open for air through the heating element, to give hot air in the cold season.
The same construction unfortunately also provides unnecessary heat into the cab in the summertime, even if the air through it is closed. If you live in a climate that allows it, you can hook up a vacuum switch to engage/disengage the existing valve, or just replace it with a simple manual open/shut valve to follow the seasons. I have also seen valves that was built as a bypass valve, routing hot water back into the return hose when the valve was closed. If you decide to use a valve, you should open it from time to time during the summer season, to flush through the heater element, just to prevent sedimentation.

Olaf.

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Aspenized