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| Normal for lights, dash to dim at idle, brighten at gas? https://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=43175 |
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| Author: | paulgr [ Sat Jan 08, 2011 5:37 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Normal for lights, dash to dim at idle, brighten at gas? |
'64 dart V8, I have noticed that the interior dash lighting dims quite noticeably on idle and then brightens at acceleration. Headlights as well. Is this normal or indicative of a problem? |
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| Author: | emsvitil [ Sat Jan 08, 2011 5:41 pm ] |
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It's normal with the low amp original alternators.......... |
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| Author: | wjajr [ Sun Jan 09, 2011 7:10 am ] |
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Check your idle rpm. Sometimes just little increase in rpm, 50 or so, will eliminate voltage drop off, but not fix the problem. Also have you increased current draw by adding audio equipment, extra lights, or now that it is cool, running heater fan on high can cause voltage drop and light dimming at low rpms. Another place to check would be for substandard wiring & corroded connectors in the charging circuit. Clean the battery terminals, and make sure all grounding connections are good including those serving all exterior lighting. Chances are good that these circuits have increased resistance from old age, which lowers voltage delivered to a device served. |
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| Author: | BUCKET 636 [ Sun Jan 09, 2011 1:25 pm ] |
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I was still getting pulsating/flickering lights after installing relays on my AP6(1965 Chrysler Valiant). Dan sent me a couple of links on what to look for. So i took my ignition switch out and sanded the terminals with fine grit sandpaper and used a scribe to scratch inside the plug terminals. I did this for the where i had bridged the ballast wires for the HEI and also the ignition wire to the starter relay terminal. I then put a dab of dielectric grease on everything i had cleaned and also on each terminal of the printed circuit plug. No more flickering headlights. I had previously also run a new field wire from the alternator to the regulator and a ground loop from the alternator case to the regulator base where it mounts,then to the battery negative post. Thanks to Dan for being willing to help me on this one and thanks to this site for all the info i have gathered. Cheers Greg |
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| Author: | paulgr [ Sun Jan 09, 2011 6:00 pm ] |
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This is Dans old vehicle so I suspect all the electrical is in good working order. A slow idle sounds possible though since I have been tracking a stall problem since the cold weather. I looked at the manual but can't quite figure out how to change the choke/idle. Advice would be appreciated. |
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| Author: | 4speed [ Sun Jan 09, 2011 6:27 pm ] |
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You may want to start a new thread for this but... Take off air cleaner. Engine cold. Open and close the throttle. Choke air valve should be fully closed now. If not check for hanging up-wiggle rod a little. Now hold throttle open by hand and open/close the choke. You will see a linkage that comes from the choke valve down to the throttle plate area. That is your fast (cold) idle cam. Now depends on which carb you have you may have a screw that you can tighten to increase RPM's or you have to bend the linkage to bring up the fast idle cam to a higher step (speed) Please look at a factory manual as it will tell you how to do it right! |
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| Author: | paulgr [ Sun Jan 09, 2011 6:36 pm ] |
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Thanks! I actually just was poking around, the first spring loaded screw seemed to hold some odd shaped thingie (sorry!) and didn't do what I wanted but then found the idle screw below. Seemed to help a bit on the electrical cycling but I still stalled it one block out. Dan reports that I have a stromberg ww3 carb. |
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| Author: | 4speed [ Sun Jan 09, 2011 6:46 pm ] |
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Stromberg WW3. Boy that's the one I do not know well. Love the Carters (BBS/BBD/WCFB/AFB)-I barely can stand the Holleys (2300) but rarely do I get to work on a Stromberg. Last one I worked on was on a '49 Dodge last year. My 50 is a Carter. As is my 54 and the 64 |
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| Author: | paulgr [ Sun Jan 09, 2011 7:38 pm ] |
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Stromberg ww 3-258 read the part off. Got a high idle going, thanks for the help. Now I know how to tighten the steering column and where the throttle is. Small steps! |
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| Author: | 1967cuda [ Tue Feb 08, 2011 5:05 pm ] |
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Quote: I was still getting pulsating/flickering lights after installing relays on my AP6(1965 Chrysler Valiant).
I have a similar problem, and recently read from an original MoPar shop manual that the ammeter should deflect towards the C for a while, until the engine is warm, and should return to the neutral center position once the battery is charged. It says that if it stays in the charging position constantly while driving, there are 3 possible problems: 1) alternator, 2) voltage regulator, 3) ignition switch. The alternator and voltage regulator are intuitive. I guess I don't understand what the ignition switch does, besides connect the circuit. How does repairing the ignition switch help this problem? I like to know why things work; I don't understand this one.Dan sent me a couple of links on what to look for. So i took my ignition switch out and sanded the terminals with fine grit sandpaper and used a scribe to scratch inside the plug terminals. Cheers Greg Thanks! Thomas |
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| Author: | 66aCUDA [ Wed Feb 09, 2011 6:28 am ] |
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Thomas You are just cleaning a high resistance contact point and making it a low resistance or better yet a No resistance. Frank |
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