If you're timing is right, it could be that your problem is a weak spark. Many things can cause that on both the low and high voltage side.
Let's start with the low voltage side:
When cranking, the ballast ought to be bypassed and you ought to have 12V at the coil(+). If you have a poor connection between the starter relay and the coil, you may not be getting much or any voltage to the coil in START, but be getting normal voltage in RUN. The (-) side goes to the control box, and that must be well grounded to work properly, so check those carefully. To check the (+) coil, have somebody turns the key to START while you measure the (+) coil. Beware that as the field collapses in the coil you can generate enough voltage to hurt yourself or the meter, so disconnect the meter before turning the key away from START. You can disable the starter to prevent cranking while you test the relay by removing the cable from the relay.
If you've got a good 12V at the coil(+), see that coil(-) sits at <0.7V (but not 0.0V) when on, but not firing - that's the switching transistor in the control box. If that's good, it's possible that the control box is bad or there's a problem with the pickup and connections. You can make/break the magnetic flux at the pickup to generate a signal for testing.
I always carry a spark ignition box; I've had the Mopar orange one die w/o warning at 2K miles and now run an old NAPA top-of-the-line box.
Next look at the high voltage side:
Coils don't last forever, and often the insulation inside starts breaking down, resulting in weak or no spark after >100,000 mi. I've seen new coils go bad in funny ways and apparently arc internally, frying the ignition box. Spark plug wires, especially the coil-to-distributor wire, go bad in funny hard-to-pin-down ways; try substituting another coil-to-dist wire and see if the spark improves.
You need a good spark to start a cold engine, so I'd look at that 1st. Good luck!
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Checked the coil and it seems to be right in the ohm range at 1.8.